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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 06-20-2009, 05:07 PM   #21
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samnavy do you recommend i still go with the gt2560?

i was thinking since a 1.8 is in my future why not go with it for now enjoy it with my 1.6, then when the time comes have more fun with it on the 1.8.

if not, speak your mind im all ears =D
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Old 06-20-2009, 06:11 PM   #22
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You know I admit I missed the part where you said you were BUILDING a stock motor. I thought you were just using one. I agree, it is a little strange not to at least use some better rods especially since there are good ones for less than $400. But it is your call. If you have not assembled the motor yet, SERIOUSLY consider at least doing that. You will have a much stronger motor. You really should not use the stock rods. I would never build a motor with the stock rods myself if it was getting anywhere near a turbo.

Anyhow, I still think you should get the 2560. It gives up very little in terms of spool on the 2554, is considerably more efficient, and has a lot more headroom for future growth. Spending a little more for the S4 manifold versus the cast one is a good suggestion (unless you score a good cast manifold cheap). It will improve spool and make more power. Match it with a good free-flow exhaust, at least 2.5". It will flow a lot better than the stock one even if you go with a cheap crimp bent setup. Use a straight-through muffler like a Magnaflow, cheap at peformancepeddler.com

Did I mention you should not use the stock rods?

Oh yeah, before I forget to mention it, DO NOT USE THE STOCK RODS!

You see that picture in my sig? IT IS A FAILED STOCK ROD!

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Old 06-20-2009, 06:50 PM   #23
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I see no reason why anyone on this forum would rebuild a motor without putting 300 dollar rods into it.

I have the 2560 and wouldn't want anything less, its street driven and tracked on occasian. If anything i would want something bigger.
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Old 06-21-2009, 12:08 AM   #24
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*COUGH!* I've rebuilt with stock rods, but then again I am a ******* retard. Which is why I will more than likely (or will) find another engine and rebuild it for boost. I will focus on suspension for now, boost will yet again have to wait.
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Old 06-21-2009, 12:16 AM   #25
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I think we are all just trying to strongly encourage you not to use the stock rods if you had not built the motor already

Since you already built the motor, go ahead and boost it, but run a IC and/or WI and tune the timing carefully, keep it below 10-12 psi and fight the temptation to raise it above that. You can run it higher, and some do, but the empirical evidence suggests that it is risky. I destroyed that rod with a 2560 at 15-16 psi in a '99 1.8L.
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Old 06-21-2009, 12:38 AM   #26
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To take over the thread for a second, what do you guys think about stock rods on lower power numbers, like 160-180whp on something like a 2560 at whatever psi it takes to make that power (6-8psi?). A 2560 at 8psi is kind of like an asthmatic breath, but once I got the built engine ready, I could bump it up for 250whp range easily.
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Old 06-21-2009, 12:54 AM   #27
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IMO that is a good strategy. That is basically what I did, started with a stock motor and a 2560 at about 6-7 psi. Above that and the stock clutch would slip. When I got a better clutch I raised it to 10-12 psi. It all went wrong when I got greedy and pushed the stock motor too far, going above 14 psi. YMMV.

But it was all done with the 2560. All I had to do was turn up the boost and check the tune. I have a 2871 now, but I miss the 2560 sometimes since it spooled considerably faster than the 2871 does.
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Old 06-21-2009, 01:21 AM   #28
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Rebuilding a motor with stock rods is borderline retarded.
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Old 06-21-2009, 01:30 AM   #29
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Well, I speak for the retards. When I was doing my rebuild, everything I researched showed stock internals would be fine for my then goal of 180-200whp. Since then you asshats have blown up one after the other and thrown that out the window. I thought for sure stock rods will be fine, a few people seem to be running stock rods with boost no problem... Now I have to go back and build another engine for boost. This one will make a good engine n/a till then, or with light boost.
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Old 06-21-2009, 02:37 AM   #30
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thanks for the imput and putdowns.. i know i know your all just looking out, but like i said before im not greedy when it comes to boost so im thinking 12psi is AT MOST i would push the 2560 with my stock internals.

So Stock rods should hold up.

The thing is when i picked up the rebuild kit the guy already had the rods press fitted with the pistons so thats that. nothing i can do unless i get new pistons and thats not going to happen.

As For the 1.8, when i get my hands on one. I WILL GO ALL OUT on that motor and you all will see the build thread. But for now this little fragile 1.6 is what im going to use.

thanks again!
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Old 06-21-2009, 12:12 PM   #31
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Railz, your posts are crazy long and I don't feel like reading them so forgive me if this has been brought up:

If you have a $1000 budget then turbo is not for you. Even if the system is built for that much (I seriously doubt it), maintenance and repair costs are going to eat your lunch.

I originally spent ~$3000 on my build, and I built everything from the manifold, IC piping, Megasquirt, and exhaust system myself....then bent a stock rod at 15psi.

I just spent another ~$2500 rebuilding my motor w/ ETD rods and Supertech pistons after machine work, bearings, gaskets and seals. Rods are about 10% of the total cost, it would be stupid to put in stock rods if you're rebuilding the motor.
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Old 06-21-2009, 01:51 PM   #32
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fluke- this is not my first build/turbo set-up.

Already have everything from my current set up if you didnt read that.

i just want a reliable manifold and turbo along with a sturdy downpipe.
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Old 06-21-2009, 03:53 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by railz View Post
fluke- this is not my first build/turbo set-up.

Already have everything from my current set up if you didnt read that.

i just want a reliable manifold and turbo along with a sturdy downpipe.
What I'm telling you is that if you plan to run 15psi on stock internals, be prepared to pull the motor and rebuild it after you blow the rods.

That's going to cost you a lot more than your $1000 budget.

But hey, do what you want. It's your car.
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Old 06-22-2009, 01:49 AM   #34
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My earlier post will say no more then 12psi.

Thanks for all the kind warnings but im sure a fresh motor should hold up to 12pounds. If not then, it'll be a lesson learned.

All you gotta do is have some faith guys
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