they took out braineacks part and stickeid it ohwell at least this part didnt wither into opolesence i do have another thing to add i have been running low impeance injectors for more than a month i dont know how but i have they are for sale now and hopefully i will get some correct impedance injectors and see if there is alot of difference i bet there is as the low's never seemed quite right.

 

It did "wither into opolesence" for a while untill I figured out how to move these posts.

Did you have to modify the injectors to slide them into the connectors? What part number are they? Color? What Ohm did you read them at?

 

023250-70040 yellow and yeah i trimmed the tabs 2.8 ohms i hd initialy tested with a cheapo multi meter that only measured in K's of ohm stupid me this is why i though tye where the same as both where off the charts but seeing your posts i went and got a better multi meter and now i know the truth.

 

What are you using in the stead? My 305s idle like stock with the RX-7 AFM (14.7 AFR).

 

i am back to the 1.8's until i get some real 300's high impedance.

 

or might go 400. since i can do low might try to get some 400's running shouldn't be much worse

 

I take it the idle is better?

 

just bought some 460's we shall see.

 

what the rx7 can realy do 300 whp here i come

 

the mbc write up is killer i might do that to substitute my bleed off mbc

 

I've heard of some people drill a really really tiny hole into the MBC to help from overloading the wategate, but I dunno if it's really needed or not. But yeah, it's so simple to do. Although now that I've used a silenoid, I never want to go back.

 

the little hole is to allow the pressure between the closed MBC and WG to release--otherwise you'll just have a stuck-open wastegate.

also stuff you may wanna add is links to stores / p/n of fittings that are useful. I spent way too long finding adapters and crap to put my system together. for example my -4 M to F with a 1/8 FPT for a gauge tap is one of my favorite parts and makes it easy to tap into the sender line though you still need the 1/8-27 to 1/8-28 PT adapter--which was also hard to find.

Matt

 

It'd be great if someone would write up an explanation of what all the various trim, A/R and compressor wheel numbers mean. I've searched here, at Miata.net, and on the internet and nobody's got a basic article listing where the measurements come from and what impact they have on spool and flow characteristics.

 

http://www.stealth316.com/2-turboguide.htm here ya go.

 

Awesome. Thanks for the link.

 

I was going some research, and it looks like the yellow top 295cc Supra injectors were on the car from 86-88, while the green top 315cc injectors were on the car from 89-92. Also interesting is that, apparently, the flow rates are the same. The rating difference being the test pressure, because the car fuel system was at 36 psi with the yellow tops, and 42 psi with the green tops. The injector ratings were done at those pressures. Neat stuff.

Point is, can you correct the years for the non-turbo supra injectors on the FAQ? Thanks

Note: while looking for injectors, be careful in model year 88/89, as the injectors changed at different times be it a US or non-US car.

 

I think a lot of the same confusion applies to miata injectors. They seem to be flow rated at whatever pressure that particular generation idles at, instead of at the 3 bar standard.

B, while you're cleaning up the toyota injectors, please also erase the incorrect rx7 440 injectors (the 460 and 550 info you have is the correct info).

 

that's also why im listing the part numbers where applicable. The ones in question are actually the two pictured. so they were tested higher than accepted. So far I've seen 2 charts that show the green tops coming back at around 315cc at 43.5psi.

 

The pictures you posted were most helpful when I was doing my injector shopping. Thanks!

 

I should have pic's of miata blue tops, miata tan tops, rx7 red tops, and rx7 purple tops if you think you can use any of them.