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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 09-11-2006, 10:07 PM   #1
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Default DIY oil pan

Finished this up a month ago. Engine (FE3 or FE-dohc 2.0) is now in the car and the car is running- albeit mechanical boost of 7psi only. Only have about 25 miles of autotuning in. Hard finding time to drive it with work being busy.

So here's what it takes to get a 4.3 quart FE3 oil sump in a Miata without modding the subframe. I went "hot rod" style with the kick outs. Started with a Kia Sportage pan that was chopped for steering rack and subframe clearance, but hung way too low.

First thing I did was mock up some cardboard kickouts with the engine/pan in the car. The started with the sheet metal.

Next was chopping the bottom of the existing sump- 1-1/2" removed. Yellow line shows the kickout location.

With kickouts tacked in place, test fit the pan using the motor mount marks on the side and a 1/8" block between the rack and pan bottom.

Ready to install after some serious leak testing. Drain and temp bungs are horizontal to reduce vulnerability. Raised the turbo oil drain stub up as high as I could get it to keep resting oil in pan away from drain exit.

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Old 09-11-2006, 10:26 PM   #2
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That's some good ol' fashioned ingenuity, right there. Great work!
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Old 09-11-2006, 10:28 PM   #3
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pukaki for you, thumbs up
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Old 09-12-2006, 02:31 AM   #4
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I need welding skills. and bowhunting skills. but mostly welding.
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Old 09-12-2006, 09:32 AM   #5
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looks like a space ship to me.
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Old 09-12-2006, 10:57 AM   #6
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Upside down it looks like a moose head. But I'm hoping nobody sees it upside down.

My cheap campbell hausfeld welder is dying after 5 years of duty, but I used my pal's harbor freight $200 115amp 110v ac welder with my wire and gas and it worked great. I can't recommend buy a welder and two of those cheap grinders (one for cutting and the other for grinding) enough. That combined with a drill and you can tackle most jobs. I lost count of how many bracket-type-things I fabricated on this project. - rob
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Old 09-12-2006, 11:18 AM   #7
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You put a 2.3 in the miata??

Can we have more details?

Nice fab skill btw.
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Old 09-12-2006, 12:08 PM   #8
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I put it in and took it back out after 400 miles. It was a poor engine build. Cylinder walls weren't sonic tested for wall thickness on the overbore, and the main bore wasn't checked for alignment. So besides the number 1 cylinder cracking, the crank was pounding the main bearings. The good news was I could fix all the issues with that install. Sort of like debugging, only with a grinder and welder.

The engine is an FE-DOHC (or FE3) and is a drop in for the first gen Mx6 and Probe guys. It is Mazda's big block 4 cylinder- like the BP only larger - bore, stroke, ports, valves, rods, pistons, crank. The F2T crank drops in bringing displacement up to 2.2 liters, and an overbore will push it to 2.3. What I have in now is the stock 2.0 FE3. The project consisted of big stuff like motor mount adapter plates, the oil pan and a hybrid intake manifold made from the original FE3 sectioned and mated to the top half of a 1.6. Lucky me the runners lined up. The rest of the work amounted to connecting the engine to the Miata and it's associated parts/connections. That was a lot of bracket making, tubing adjustments and so on. The current trans is a Miata with B2000 front section which bolts up to the FE3. I'm using a Miata clutch/pp with a 626 flywheel and a b2000/Miata slave cylinder. As far as swaps go this was fairly simple IMO. And it's a cheap way to get displacement and strength. I'd guess I've got about $1500 in the swap (including the engine). - rob
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Old 09-12-2006, 12:20 PM   #9
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Oh my. I like it. Hmmmm...
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Old 09-12-2006, 12:29 PM   #10
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I should add that I'm by no means a good fabricator. I consider my work adequate- it works, but it's usually ugly. To quote a fabricator on one of those tv shows, "You don't need to be a good welder, just a good grinder."
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Old 09-12-2006, 12:52 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m2cupcar View Post
To quote a fabricator on one of those tv shows, "You don't need to be a good welder, just a good grinder."
My favorite was an older (75ish) radio engineer I used to work with named Ralph: "If it works, but it's ugly, then it works."
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Old 09-12-2006, 12:59 PM   #12
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I think my biggest problem is a cheap 110v welder combined with my impatience of completing the project (or at least driving it). Most of the work happens on the weekend and come noon on Sunday, I was never where I thought I'd be as far as work completed. In hind sight my rushing created half my problems. I hate to continue my reference to tv, but when you see these guys doing all the test fitting, well there's a reason for it. The second time around, I installed the pan on another stripped block and I'm damn glad I did. Turns out the sump isn't square and the intake side kickout was about 3/16" too far forward, which meant no clearance to the subframe. Doh. But then I could just pull the bare block out and fix it. Nice. There's something to be said for pacing one's self on a project like this. Tunnel vision will kill ya in the long run. - rob
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Old 09-12-2006, 01:37 PM   #13
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Any pics of this engine in the car? Are you at that point yet?
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Old 09-12-2006, 01:47 PM   #14
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Yeah, check his webpage. He's had it installed and running for several months now.
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Old 09-12-2006, 05:45 PM   #15
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Actually I've had two engines installed and running. The first one is/was the 2.3 that came apart. The one that's in there now is the 2.0- been in about three weeks, but I've only put about 30 miles on it at this point and only with mechanical boost. I've got an ebc for the link but haven't set it up. I'm losing nearly 2psi somewhere. I'm seeing about 7.5 psi post IC and that used to be very close to 9. I checked my actuator at lunch to confirm it's a 10psi and it's movement stopped right around there. So I've got a leak somewhere. It's a lot easier when the pipes just blow off. There's a pic of the current engine in the car in my VBgarage. I have lots of pics that I just haven't uploaded to my site(s). Neeed to do that. But first I have to install a soft top. - rob
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Old 09-12-2006, 07:06 PM   #16
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Wow, great install. It looks like Mazda put it there from the factory....
--Alex
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Old 09-12-2006, 09:23 PM   #17
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thanks- that was my goal (well that and keep it cheap)
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Old 09-13-2006, 01:18 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m2cupcar View Post


I think my biggest problem is a cheap 110v
That is correct. I bit the bullet and bought a HD3200 mig. ($425) and now I'm making manifolds.

-LAZ
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Old 09-13-2006, 09:47 AM   #19
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My garage (circa 1925) is 80ft. from the house with only 110v. So rather than run 220v I'm going to build a new garage with 220v installed... I'll need for a bigger compressor, hvac, the welder... and a lift.
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Old 09-13-2006, 04:30 PM   #20
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Don't forget a tire changer and balancer...
I just upgraded my tire changer to change run flats/ low profile
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