i put the gasket on the intake side of the cylinder head and
outlined the inside part with a sharpie marker to use as a reference point.
I then used my dremmel with several tips to get this ported...


here's a different picture...

a mild polish...


and the final pic before i take it back to the machine shop today...

 

dem some nice pictars

 

Meh, I wouldn't have done it like that. Your efforts could have been better spend doing other things. The "port matching" you did is not necessarily an improvement and could actually make it worse. Better, you would have spent your time ushrouding the combustion chambers and blending the combustion chambers into the seats and the seats into the throat. You need to get a book on cylinder head modifications.

 

I hope you had valves in those chambers to protect the seat. Also, it looks like all you did was open up where the injector sits? You won't really see any gains from what you have done so far. You might need a valve job from your chamber polishing actually.

 

I heart you neo.

 

the old valves were in place as i was sanding, i have the FM valves going
in so i'm not too worried about scratching the old ones...


yeah thats one thing i worked on alot

but there were also alot of rough areas that needed to be smoothed



and here is the valve seats for the new FM valves

 

looks nice maybe if i rebuild my engine i will do the same thing.

 

You didnt post those pics before, so I was just commenting on what I saw at the time. Decent job, takes a steady hand doesnt it.

 

where in Iowa are you?

 

I may be too late.... But if your not done, I used standard 1/4" shank carbide burrs in my drill to do mine. A little awkward to hold, but it takes off material a lot easier than a Dremel.
--Alex

 

more details on which Dremel bits you used?

 

I did this exact same thing this weekend to my head while my engine is apart. I used a die grinder and some sandpaper cartridge rolls. Seem to work well for me. I cleaned up the casting marks mainly, didn't really enlarge the passages or ports. Then I went back over it with some polishing compound.

They look real good, but we'll see how they perform when I get the engine back together.

Also BTW reassembling the valve train sucks. Once you get the hang of getting the retainers to seat on the valve its not to bad though. Grease is your friend.

 

I don't have a factory service manual, but I need some torque specs for the head. Could someone enlighten me as to what I should torque the camshaft cap bolts to? I'm thinking that since its going into aluminum the torques should be similar to that of the spark plugs???

Also could someone tell me the torque pattern for the head bolts. I've searched the forums and the intarwebs and have not come up with good answers to these questions.

 

Search miata.net. 99.999% sure that info is posted there. I shall restrain from quoting crucial torque specs from memory for fear of error and you not confirming them.