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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 09-22-2008, 10:33 AM   #1
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Default DIY Port and Polish

i put the gasket on the intake side of the cylinder head and
outlined the inside part with a sharpie marker to use as a reference point.
I then used my dremmel with several tips to get this ported...

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here's a different picture...
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a mild polish...
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and the final pic before i take it back to the machine shop today...
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Old 09-22-2008, 10:35 AM   #2
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dem some nice pictars
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Old 09-22-2008, 11:05 AM   #3
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Meh, I wouldn't have done it like that. Your efforts could have been better spend doing other things. The "port matching" you did is not necessarily an improvement and could actually make it worse. Better, you would have spent your time ushrouding the combustion chambers and blending the combustion chambers into the seats and the seats into the throat. You need to get a book on cylinder head modifications.
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Old 09-22-2008, 11:05 AM   #4
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I hope you had valves in those chambers to protect the seat. Also, it looks like all you did was open up where the injector sits? You won't really see any gains from what you have done so far. You might need a valve job from your chamber polishing actually.
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Old 09-22-2008, 11:20 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neogenesis2004 View Post
I hope you had valves in those chambers to protect the seat. Also, it looks like all you did was open up where the injector sits? You won't really see any gains from what you have done so far. You might need a valve job from your chamber polishing actually.

I heart you neo.
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Old 09-22-2008, 02:58 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by neogenesis2004 View Post
I hope you had valves in those chambers to protect the seat.
the old valves were in place as i was sanding, i have the FM valves going
in so i'm not too worried about scratching the old ones...
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Quote:
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Also, it looks like all you did was open up where the injector sits?
yeah thats one thing i worked on alot
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but there were also alot of rough areas that needed to be smoothed
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neogenesis2004 View Post
You won't really see any gains from what you have done so far. You might need a valve job from your chamber polishing actually.
and here is the valve seats for the new FM valves
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Old 09-22-2008, 03:38 PM   #7
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looks nice maybe if i rebuild my engine i will do the same thing.
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Old 09-22-2008, 03:47 PM   #8
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You didnt post those pics before, so I was just commenting on what I saw at the time. Decent job, takes a steady hand doesnt it.
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Old 09-22-2008, 10:35 PM   #9
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where in Iowa are you?
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Old 09-23-2008, 01:02 AM   #10
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I may be too late.... But if your not done, I used standard 1/4" shank carbide burrs in my drill to do mine. A little awkward to hold, but it takes off material a lot easier than a Dremel.
--Alex

Last edited by AlexO35; 09-23-2008 at 01:52 AM.
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Old 09-23-2008, 06:29 AM   #11
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more details on which Dremel bits you used?
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Old 09-23-2008, 10:22 AM   #12
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I did this exact same thing this weekend to my head while my engine is apart. I used a die grinder and some sandpaper cartridge rolls. Seem to work well for me. I cleaned up the casting marks mainly, didn't really enlarge the passages or ports. Then I went back over it with some polishing compound.

They look real good, but we'll see how they perform when I get the engine back together.

Also BTW reassembling the valve train sucks. Once you get the hang of getting the retainers to seat on the valve its not to bad though. Grease is your friend.
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Old 09-24-2008, 12:26 AM   #13
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I don't have a factory service manual, but I need some torque specs for the head. Could someone enlighten me as to what I should torque the camshaft cap bolts to? I'm thinking that since its going into aluminum the torques should be similar to that of the spark plugs???

Also could someone tell me the torque pattern for the head bolts. I've searched the forums and the intarwebs and have not come up with good answers to these questions.
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Old 09-24-2008, 12:36 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yertnamreg1218 View Post
I don't have a factory service manual, but I need some torque specs for the head. Could someone enlighten me as to what I should torque the camshaft cap bolts to? I'm thinking that since its going into aluminum the torques should be similar to that of the spark plugs???

Also could someone tell me the torque pattern for the head bolts. I've searched the forums and the intarwebs and have not come up with good answers to these questions.
Search miata.net. 99.999% sure that info is posted there. I shall restrain from quoting crucial torque specs from memory for fear of error and you not confirming them.
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