dvcn

iTrader: (7)

That was without the new shifter.

Those shifts in the video were painfully slow. For me, the sloppy 6sp shifter made fast shifts a Hail Mary. There was .1-.3 seconds lost in the shifts alone. With the new shifter, the 2-3 is almost as confident as the 1-2.

I went to the track a couple weeks ago but didn't run. The track had a lot of delays and was too slippery. Seemed that every 5th car was spilling crap on the track. Most who was trapping in the 118-124mph range was spinning the tires all the way, even in 3rd and 4th gear. Mid-high 10 second cars were running mid 12's at 124.

There was no reason to use up a few of the car's last gasping breaths! Hope to make it to the track one more time before the motor gets rebuilt. There will be improvements in the 60', shift speed and tuning.

dvcn

iTrader: (7)

Only got one run at the track. Not their fault, people kept oiling down the track.

Didn't get near the 60' that I wanted, there was a little too much wheelspin. I stupidly forgot that the boost would be higher in the cool air and didn't turn down the boost or turn up the boost cut. It was banging on the limiter in 3rd-5th gear. In the past this was worth 1mph. I would have fixed this and the tire pressure if I had another run. There is always next time.....



The car(and driver) were a porky 2568lbs going down the track. Plug that in to a calculator to get the true whp.

Just want to recap some of the items on the car:
-Stock 1991 1.6 coil pack, NGK blue wires
-1991 CAS, not a wheel with teeth
-Stock 1996 motor(not rebuilt, stock tb, intake manifold, no NB head, etc)
-No coolant reroute
-Stock replacement radiator
-Single feed 1996 fuel rail (feeds into the #4 end of the rail)
-Thin aluminized steel exhaust, no stainless
-Very cheap eBay turbo, manifold, intercooler and piping.
-Fram oil filter

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

Nice run- too bad there weren't more so you could tweak. Would have been nice to see the improvements. Next time...

If you'd fix some of that stuff you'd probably be running tens.

iwannadrive

Always inspired by this car.

How stable are your coolant temps when you're beating on it?

Also, the spool on this is impressive for the size of the turbo... must be helped by the tubular manifold? (Any photos of the bracing, by the way?)

dvcn

iTrader: (7)

Coolant temp goes up only a couple/few degrees during a drag or autox run. I'm not able to get into boost enough on the street to make a difference.

It stays cool even with a stock aluminum/plastic radiator, no reroute or high pressure cap because I don't use the Flavor-Aid* additive.

I'm told that the log type manifolds spool quicker than tubular. Big turbo? I wouldn't go any smaller. Not sure why people like micro turbos so much. I've had a few tiny turbo cars in the past and hated the powerband.

E85 helps spool and reduces temps.

Go back one page to see pictures of the braces.

When I eventually rebuild the motor I'll have to get off my high(mileage and stock) horse!

*I will stop passing on misinformation and will use the correct "Flavor-Aid" in place of "Kool-Aid" from now on.

Chiburbian

iTrader: (1)

One calculator has you at 347hp going off of weight and top speed. At least that gives you some idea of what ballpark you play in...

iwannadrive

Very rad.

The major reason I'd personally like to do a slightly smaller turbo are for a more linear powerband during occasional autocross use... So I've been deciding between 57 trim and 50 trim t3/t4s. I might go for the 50 trim, as I'm hoping to keep my stock 5sp, ACT stage 1, and run a bit milder overall tune/setup.

I totally get your mentality, though. Most people follow the crowd and think they need to spend 4k+ to have a reliable, quick turbo setup. If you know what you are getting into, make smart decisions on where to place your money, and are willing to do the dirty work, you can build a decent setup for pennies. Sure, if you're going to run track days, more cooling will very likely be needed... but for a street car, it's not a big deal. I come from the community of old turbo volvos, where the name of the game is junkyard engineering and self-fabrication, so the miata community has always seemed a bit foreign to me in that regard.

Another question out of curiosity: What kind of plug gaps do you run?

dvcn

iTrader: (7)

My calculator shows around 330whp. It's to the point of embarrassment that I haven't broken into the 11's yet. If I have even more hp and still can't do it, I'll need therapy!

I run gap of .026" on BKR7E plugs.

From what I've seen locally, you Volvo guys are as fun and innovative as the K car guys! (for those that haven't encountered this breed, this is a high compliment) You guys definitely get it. I was going to mention the point about track cars needing all of the upgraded equipment to be reliable but you hit it on the nose for me.

The Miata online community is odd. I'll leave it at that.

Keep your M.O. of thinking outside of "The Box". (that was a lame attempt at a Volvo joke)

Chiburbian

iTrader: (1)

K car as in Dodge omni, etc? I always wanted to build a turbo Dodge Rampage as a fun parts hauler.

Dodge Rampage - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

dvcn

iTrader: (7)

Yup, Mopars. I have a friend who built one for the GRM Challenge. They can make massive power for a relatively small amount of money. Some of my favorites are the turbo Caravans. They also get great gas mileage.
89 turbo mini van!
The world's fastest Turbo Dodge Caravan is for sale

Volvo guys do a lot of fun things too.

miata2fast

iTrader: (2)

Are you still using drag radials?

You have more than enough MPH to get into the 11's. You just really need to work on the 60'. They are pretty pathetic compared to the rest of the run. With the power you are making, if you are not going 1.7's, something is wrong.

The car is amazing on how well it has lasted and how fast you are going. Serious props.

dvcn

iTrader: (7)

Used and relatively old drag radials. Yes, real slicks would help but I like the idea of being able to say that this street car ran xx.xx as it sits in the parking lot of the grocery store. I also run 550/350 springs with OTS Koni single adjustables. Won't change these either as I try to autox when possible.

(warning: long and boring drag racing story, mostly as an excuse)

To be fair to my ego, practice isn't everything. I have many passes down the 1/4, 70 recorded runs in this car. Probably over 200 counting other cars.

What you do with your non-FI car is awesome and I wish more people would go through the work to do it. I know how much work it is. I don't know any other (daily driven) 1st gen RX-7 with a bone stock unopened motor get into the 13's. I put together a $200 13B (with 20 hours of work with a grinder) and ran 13.5's all day long on Nankang 205/60-14's.

I drove at the very first import event in '92 or so in an RX-3(M/T ET's, nitrous, full Bridgeport). I won cash at another bracket event along with trophies in other bracket events. In the local NHRA import race way back when, I tree'd and 60'd Ari Yallon even though he had 400whp and four seconds on me. I'm not John Force but I'm not completely clueless.

This Miata has done 1.99 60's on 195/60-14 Fuzions, which are 400-420 treadwear. The HP and linearity of the powerband was a lot different than it is now. I feel confident that I can launch a lower hp, linear powerband car consistently all day long.

In the last two trips to the track I got ONE run. A couple months ago the track sucked. It had rained the day before and people were oiling down the track. Cars that trapped at 116-118mph were spinning in 3rd gear. 10 sec cars that were trapping at 124-126mph were running 12.5's and spinning the tires through 4th gear. 50 practice runs that night would not have helped a thing, so I didn't run. I sat in the stands eating a cheeseburger washed down with a couple of Foster's oil cans.

This last trip to the track I got ONE run. Idiots were breaking and putting fluid on the track. I was preparing to do my burnout when the 8-9 sec Grand National in line in front of me exploded his diff off the line. The idiot stayed in it then coasted 100' before pulling to the side. After an hour of unsuccessful cleaning, they shut that lane down and decided to only run the left lane. Fine.

Before my only run of the night, the car in front of me was a twin Procharged Mustang. Long story short, he sucked, dripped crap on the track and had to be pushed off. I did a good burnout and launched hard enough. The tires hazed in first and second. I think it's a miracle that I pulled a 1.92 60' considering the conditions. The surface was cold to the touch by then too.

You know more than anyone that it is not easy to run a number - and that it becomes exponentially harder as you want to go faster. I DON'T mean to rag on you, I just don't want all of the ignorant people to think that it is easy to make a perfect run down the dragstrip.

The next time I go to the track it will be after a big event so that, just maybe, the track will still be prepped a little.

miata2fast

iTrader: (2)

I get that you want to run as fast as possible as a street car. What you have accomplished is quite impressive, and I love it. Why not take it to the next level and see what it will really do?


You will be amazed at how much the car will pick up with slicks. It is what makes drag racing so much fun. Do you think the really fast track day guys are using their daily tires? It is really no different than the drag strip. Tires make all the difference.


As far as my comment about the lousy 60' time, it was not meant to be a harsh criticism. I was just suggesting that your further development time be focused on getting the current motor and chassis combo to work better off the line. That is if it is important to you. It is there, you just have to find it.

dvcn

iTrader: (7)

Had to edit my post, I left out one word that changes the meaning of a line from hating to something nicer. I totally respect what you do.

Yes, I agree that real tires would be awesome at the track. I have run ET Drags before. I can justify running used drag radials because they also get used on the street. $400-$450 for a pair of slicks is a little painful for me to do. If I could borrow or rent a pair (of slicks.....) for a night I would be thrilled. Donations accepted!

I need the track to be in acceptable shape and let more air out of the tires and I think there will be a good chance of doing it.

dvcn

iTrader: (7)

E85 makes cold weather starting more difficult. Below 50°F, starting takes a little longer - for me. It's 27°F outside today and it starts fine now by massively increasing the coolant temp fuel compensation.

More details at this post of the "E85 diary" thread:
https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-pe...7/#post1088928

locomonkeyboricua

Just got to say I love your youtube videos. Great build. So I been working on some thing close to what you have done. I hope to get close to what you got, but have already over spent.

ccsc

hi dcvn

do you know if this is the manifold you're using or if it is an updated version of yours?

1999 miata turbo manifold | eBay

Thx

cc

dvcn

iTrader: (7)

I'm not sure but I'd guess that they are similar if not better. Just follow the sage advice of m2cupcar and brace the turbo properly.

Sean

iTrader: (12)

Check Craigslist and talk to people about tires. If you have a road course anywhere near you people usually have used tires or even what they would consider shot tires they will sell cheap. A hoosier A6 road coarse tire would be good for a few track passes. Also check Craigslist I picked up my slicks for $50 and they only have 4 passes on them and they are only a year old. So just keep looking if you really want tires they are there.Tires will drop your time a lot but also gets in the area of where you start to break stuff.lol

dvcn

iTrader: (7)

What 60' times did you get on the A6's? Tire pressure? What is your setup? ET/mph?