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Old 11-10-2009, 02:29 AM   #61
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Quote:
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Ideally you always want to backpurge stainless. If the weld penetrates 100%, the inside will "sugar" (oxidize) unless backpurged.

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Solar flux is what you're thinking of. It's great for exhausts,downpipes and headers, but I wouldn't use it on a turbo manifold, unless you think you can grind it all off in between welds. The stuff will flake off and damage your turbo.
This is why I KNOW your Fabricating is awesome!!
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Old 11-10-2009, 08:41 AM   #62
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Wayne, a spacer is fine. That's not a cheated cut. A cheater cut is an angled cut not perpendicular to the center axis of the pipe (if that makes sense). I'm sure you noticed the pipe you cut at an angle ended up with a bigger, ovaled diameter that didn't quite match up to the other pipe.
Exactly.
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Old 11-10-2009, 03:01 PM   #63
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Ahh I see. A good display of my ignorance. Makes sense now.

I'm gonna go price cutoff wheels as well as get my gas bottle filled up. Hoping to get this manifold all tacked up today and start on the downpipe as well.
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Old 11-10-2009, 08:50 PM   #64
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More pictures.

Made more progress today. The meat and potatoes of the manifold are all tacked and taped up ready for me to pull the car in and tear it apart to test fit everything.
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I can tell already i'm going to need more angle.
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You can see the spacer I cut underneath the tape in this one.
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One of my main concerns so far is that i've already drilled my turbine housing to the bigger M10 studs, but this weirtech flange is drilled/tapped for M8 and doesn't look like there is a substantial amount of metal around the holes to safely drill it out even more. I plan on through-bolting this when I get it all figured out instead of studs.
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I took the advice of Artech and Tim and picked up cutoff wheels for the angle grinder. Holy hell do I feel stupid for using a ******* hacksaw...
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As soon as I can get someone over to help me move this big piece of **** out of the middle of the garage i'll be able to pull the car in and really get to work.
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Old 11-10-2009, 09:13 PM   #65
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Weak sauce, use car as pusher. Reinforce table legs first.
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Old 11-10-2009, 09:21 PM   #66
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Weak sauce, use car as pusher. Reinforce table legs first.
I used it to push someone's trashcan out of the middle of the alley the other day. Worked surprisingly well for a plastic can. Prolly not so well on a few hundred pounds of iron...
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Old 11-10-2009, 09:47 PM   #67
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You have more than enough room to drill out to 10 mm,Drill out 13/32(.406) and use through bolts,Mcmaster has High temp bolts in standard sizes,3/8-24 inconel is about $5each.Just my .02 pence
-G-
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Old 11-10-2009, 10:27 PM   #68
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Drilling out to use a 3/8-24 bolt is the good idea and like Rev. Greg said there's lots of room. If you need some fancy 12point ARP nuts I can get some. Makes getting a wrench (box end) on there easier.

Overall, looking great!
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Old 11-10-2009, 10:41 PM   #69
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All I can find is inconel wire on mcmaster. Link? Help?

Tim, how much for your fancy nuts?
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Old 11-10-2009, 10:59 PM   #70
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PM'ed ya.
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Old 11-10-2009, 11:20 PM   #71
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Sorry it was Monel
McMaster-Carr
This should help.
-G-
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Old 11-10-2009, 11:38 PM   #72
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Sorry it was Monel
McMaster-Carr
This should help.
-G-
None in 3/8-24 that I can find.

I think i'm gonna end up going 316 SS unless someone can give me a good reason to do otherwise.
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Old 11-10-2009, 11:50 PM   #73
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To be honest I m using 3/8-24 316ss I dont rremember where I found them.I could have swore I saw 3/8-24 on that page.SorryI suck
-G-
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Old 11-11-2009, 12:17 AM   #74
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To be honest I m using 3/8-24 316ss I dont rremember where I found them.I could have swore I saw 3/8-24 on that page.SorryI suck
-G-
they have 3/8-24 316ss for sure. Just not Monel. I think through-bolting the SS bolts with Tim's nuts (and some washers of course) with safety wire will keep my junk pretty tight at the track.
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Old 11-11-2009, 01:47 AM   #75
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Yeah I made some .125" 316 ss washers and drilled the heads for wire and I have ss mechanical locknuts.Im also running a 9/16" thick flange,Someone needs to donate a camera so I can post pics
-G-
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Old 11-11-2009, 02:23 AM   #76
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Tim, how much for your fancy nuts?
Funniest post of the day!
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Old 11-11-2009, 07:20 AM   #77
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Funniest post of the day!
I Know I deleted something,trying to keep on post!
-G-
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Old 11-11-2009, 09:29 PM   #78
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Got my old stuff out. Boy am I glad i'll never be putting that pain in the *** begi manifold and downpipe on again. I forgot just how big of a pain in the *** it is to install/remove.

I quickly mocked up the new manifold (forgot to take a picture) and as I suspected, i'll need to rotate the collector out a little so turbo not hit block but other than that its going to be a marvelous fit. I'm going to be so glad to easily reach every nut/bolt on the new setup. Downpipe routing is going to be a breeze as well.

Gotta go play cribbage at the bar with some friends cause i'm 90 years old and its what we do on wednesdays. Will get pics up tomorrow.
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Old 11-14-2009, 04:08 PM   #79
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Manifold build phail.

Not so bad from this side.
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Horrid from this side.
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Gappage.

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Not even sure why I tacked it together. I guess to get motivation to order more pipe and try again. since it looks decent from one side.

I guess my options at this point are to order more pipe and try to cope it again with more patience this time or order all mild bends and completely start from scratch like this:
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I think making a 4 into 1 collector would be easier than trying to cope pipe into the center 2 runners. My biggest mistake was cutting with the dremel instead of a hole saw :(

I started hurrying last night to try and get it done in time to take to Sbk to weld for me tonight. Oh well, i learned some things.
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Old 11-14-2009, 05:40 PM   #80
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Coulda done without the crotch shot

The gap on #3 isnt too bad but, yeah, #2 won't fill well. Do you have more straight pipe? Why not give it another shot? That 4-1 collector is actually going to be harder to make IMO.
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