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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 04-01-2007, 10:41 AM   #1
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Default DIY turbo kit shopping list: Am I doing OK?

What I have so far:
Used SR20DET T25 - $139
Used Begi Manifold - $250
Brand new Vortech FMU - $88
Used 1.8 tan injectors - $40
Used 1G DSM BOV - $54
MSD timing controller with the Bipes RPM control upgrade - $90
Used Dual gauge pod for A pillar - $20
Used Begi IC and piping $265

So I still need to get a MBC, boost gauge, O2 gauge, Olderguys 02 clamp and the oil and water lines and assorted hoses, clamps and misc. fasteners, and figure out my DP situation.
I am trying to boost as much reliably and safely as I can without a new clutch and Diff on a 1.6 with the stock ECU and fuel pump, I have read 170hp or so max.

Am I missing anything?

Last edited by akthor; 04-09-2007 at 05:46 PM.
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Old 04-01-2007, 11:12 AM   #2
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Couple questions... What T25 are you using, what are the A/R's and what car is it off of?
If you've read through the FAQ, you know the 6" dif will probably be fine at that power if properly taken care of... but the stock clutch will not hold 170rwhp. You might get it to hold in 1st/2nd if you let it all the way out before getting into boost, but it won't hold WOT in any of the other gears, and you won't be able to shift under any kind of power.

Somebody else will chime in with the numbers, but I think you're at the limit of the stock pump... you need to test it, so: FUEL PRESSURE GAUGE is a must for you, might as well do the DUAL FEED MOD while you're at it.

By O2 gauge, I assume you mean wideband O2 gauge. The AEM unit is around $250, and the Innovate LC-1 can be done for under $200, but requires a laptop (although the other Innovate products "LM-1" make this the one for serious tuning).

Also:
Fuel Filter
Air Filter (standard K&N cone type will work fine)
Heat Shielding (highly recommended)

Do us a favor, fill out your SIGNATURE and AVATAR with your city, and this parts list... and post up some pics in the vbGarage, it'll help getting the answers and help you need much easier.
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Old 04-01-2007, 11:33 AM   #3
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generally if you are going to push a reasonable level of boost, (7+ PSI) your going to need a fuel pump too.....id instead look at getting a Emanage Blue and 330cc injectors to run your setup much much better at only a few more $$. You can use your stock Fuel pump as it only has to push stock pressure with the 330's.
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Old 04-01-2007, 11:34 AM   #4
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The turbo will be off a Saab or a 300Z I am not sure yet as soon as the guy gets it, I'll post it. I figure with the stock clutch and diff I wanted more of a quick spooling one than high HP right now. I figure I can always buy something different in the future if I want to upgrade since I am only spending $110 on a turbo now.

170hp isn't a goal or anything I am just looking to get to the limit of the stock,diff, clutch and fuel pump, with the stock ECU. I know I'll have to be careful no dumping the clutch, peeling out ect.

I can't afford to upgrade the clutch, diff, and ECu this season and I believe I will go with a pierburg when the time comes just to save me a shitload of headaches, I did an 8" dual sub mod to my rear deck back when we rebuilt the car 2 yrs ago and getting to where the stock fuel pump now will be a real PITA (wish I thought of that back when I did it).

I will fill out that stuff with pics as soon as I can.

Can't afford the wideband right now either. I did plan on the dual feed mod.
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Old 04-01-2007, 11:41 AM   #5
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Dual feed rail+330cc injectors+ emanage+ STOCK FUEL PUMP=
Ive never been a fan of AFPR/bipes?HP fuel pump setups when there is the emanage which is far far far superior in tuning for around the same money.
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Old 04-01-2007, 12:00 PM   #6
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Maybe next season Aready have the 1.8 injectors and the msd so no looking back now.
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Old 04-01-2007, 01:08 PM   #7
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stock ecu has pushed 300 whp man i doubt you max it out before you max out the tranny/clutch/diff
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Old 04-01-2007, 01:21 PM   #8
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Where do you plan to find the mani and dp for $150? I sold mine for over $500
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Old 04-01-2007, 01:37 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neogenesis2004 View Post
Where do you plan to find the mani and dp for $150? I sold mine for over $500
If you've already bought the mani and dp for $150 you got a steal. If not you might want to budget in some more money for those items.
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Old 04-01-2007, 02:32 PM   #10
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Mani and DP was in the Miata.net classifieds this morning and I jumped on it like a cheap hooker!

Everything on my list with a price I already have bought and those prices are shipping included

I still have left to get the IC and the piping, MBC, boost gauge, O2 gauge, and the oil and water lines and assorted hoses, clamps and misc. fasteners, so I figure I got about $500 more to buy and then I am complete and can begin the install.
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Old 04-01-2007, 02:33 PM   #11
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The bigger problem is that I'm about 100% positive that T25's from SAAB's won't fit anything Begi makes. They use some funky 3-bolt flanges. Also, there are several different T25's from several different years of 300Z. I know some of them are standard T2 flanged but some may not be.

Your best bet for T25's is to buy a .80/.64 from an SR20det. Other T25's in smaller trims will make less power per psi, and will run a lot richer on the top end. In order to keep the A/F decent in the midrange, you'll have to up the fuel pressure to the point that it will **** gas on the top-end. There is no sacrifice in spool, and they have the right flanges. Plus there is a lot more headroom for more power down the road.

More people have better luck with the Walbro intank than the Pierbergs. It takes the same time to install one and there's no wiring to run... plus they're only about $90 new. Also, you'll need different discs to swap into the Vortech while tuning.

Assuming your stock clutch is still up to spec, it should hold about 150rwhp taking it real easy. But you'll be getting on the freeway some day soon and smoke it up shifting in to fourth gear. Since you plan on going to more power in the near future... DO THE CLUTCH FIRST!

Unless you plan on just guessing, you can go with an LC-1 for $200, or at the very least, you'll need an hour on the dyno to see where you stand with the tuning. Dyno time is $100hr, you'll need an hour.

If I had to do it over again from scratch, I'd go with the EMB as my very first thing to install... then clutch... then turbo. I've made most of the mistakes and have been chasing my tail for about 8months now... I wish I'd gone EMB from the start.
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Old 04-01-2007, 02:45 PM   #12
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You bought the old mani/dp for the aerodyne. If you do redrill the mani for something else, you'll have to change the flange on the DP also. Good luck.
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Old 04-01-2007, 03:14 PM   #13
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I figured for $150 shipped I could spend money getting the right flanges welded on if needed and still be way ahead of the game and have something better than the Ebay manifold/dp combos.

You are probably right about the fuel pump and I will probably just bite the bullet and tear the rear deck apart next winter.

Hopefully the clutch holds, but if worse comes to worse I could probably afford to do the clutch this summer if I have to. It's the labor thats a killer on that there is no way I am attempting to do it in my garage on jackstands :no: If I blow the diff I will be SOL tho

I made arrangements to buy the turbo before I found the deal on the Begi mani, if he hasn't already found one I can see if he can find the ones you recommended. At this point if worse comes to worse and the mani and turbo are incompatible I only spent $110 on the turbo so I could ebay it and buy something that will fit. I decent used affordable manifold is harder to find than a turbo
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Old 04-01-2007, 03:17 PM   #14
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you are so screwed man i would hate to be you






















J/k
The FP change takes maybe an hour the first time it is very easy. GL man to avoid diff breakage good rubber no burnouts and try not to wheel hop to much M K
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Old 04-01-2007, 03:22 PM   #15
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The problem with the fuel pump is my sub mod to the rear deck it makes this a PITA but it's my own fault for not thinking ahead
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Old 04-02-2007, 09:34 AM   #16
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Just get a T25 flange on both, bold and tap manifold, weld dp

Youll be fine.
Find a nice turbo (if you have the saab turbo, (t25) you need a piece of downpipe to weld it on the begi dp.
Better wil be a t25 or t28 turbo from a nissan.
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Old 04-02-2007, 12:58 PM   #17
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you'll be able to make 170rwhp with said parts you have. however, the clutch might not make it.
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Old 04-02-2007, 01:01 PM   #18
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Yeah definitely gonna need a clutch. I'd do it first, so it's broken-in before the turbo goes on.
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Old 04-02-2007, 06:08 PM   #19
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I forgot to put on my list that I will also be getting the olderguy's 02 clamps.
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Old 04-02-2007, 06:13 PM   #20
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good idea. looks like you are getting what you need. its the little things like oil lines and couplers and whatnot that's a pain.
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