perfect thanks Lars

I used a step drill that fits the small chuck. The aluminum pan cuts easily. Conversely, drill bits can be turned down. As they are case hardened, you will lose a lot of strength, but, again, the aluminum is easy to drill.

Here you go:

*EDIT* we'll try amazon:


small shank

if you search amazon for "3/8 stub drill bit" there are a bunch that are already really short (under 2") and look to be perfect for what we're trying to do.

like this:

Shorter may not be better, due to A/C bracket. That's where I rubbed my chuck a little using the short step drill. I think the one I linked to, with the angle drill, would be ideal.

Waiting for Lars' pictures.

I did not get a chance to take pictures or get measurements last night. I will be home again sometime tomorrow and will get them then.

Not the best pictures but these should give you an idea. Both cars have AC and PS.
Nb
http://mkturbo.com/t3nb/nbdrain01.jpg
http://mkturbo.com/t3nb/nbdrain02.jpg
http://mkturbo.com/t3nb/nbdrain03.jpg

NA
http://mkturbo.com/t3nb/nadrain01.jpg
http://mkturbo.com/t3nb/nadrain02.jpg

Drill and tap.
http://mkturbo.com/t3nb/drilltap.jpg

Does this location have anything behind it in the oil pan? Do the baffles get in the way?

That depends on what you mean by "behind it". There's nothing interfering with it when installed, but you can't drill it on the car.

I happen to have the pan off the car right now, so I shot a couple photos:

http://www.codrus.com/miata/fm2r/oilpan-drain1.jpg
http://www.codrus.com/miata/fm2r/oilpan-drain2.jpg

--Ian

I have the engine off the car, but the oil pan isn't off. I wanted to know how close the baffles/pickup were.

If you have the engine out, you'd be an idiot to try to drill the pan while it's still bolted to the motor. :)

--Ian

Am I missing something? Why not take the oil pan off the car, with the engine in the car? Like, i don't know, every other turbo build on any other car?

Have you ever looked at the bottom of a miata's engine bay? To remove the oil pan you have to lift the engine up a good amount to get clearance around the subframe. Then you have to attempt to put it and the windage tray back on upside down with a subframe in the way. With the amount of effort that would take, you might as well pull the engine and then do it properly.

I used a Christmas tree drill bit (Step drill bit) to drill mine. It was EXTREMELY EASY to drill. Then used a 1/2 NPT tap, all from Harbour Freight. This was when the engine was out of the car. I also somehow managed to drill in the wrong spot the first time... On the opposite side of the pan... Plugged it with a 1/2 NPT plug from Home Depot. Not a single drop has leaked. I am going to convert over to a -10 AN this winter however. I did use a dab of loctite on the threads, I thought it may prevent leaks.