I cant get my drill close enough to the pan, and my bit isnt long enough to reach. The damn power steering lines are in the way.

What do I do? Any suggestions?

Im afraid to drill at it from an angle, the best I can do is maybe 15 degrees off horizontal.

 

Why don't you simply move the lines out of the way?? It's not hard at all.

 

You mean people actually keep their power steering?

 

I know I will get shunned for this, but I actually drilled/tapped mine on the front of the pan very close to the corner...no drain problems at all.

 

Im keeping my AC too

They are kinda hard, I was afraid to break em.

Interesting idea. got pics?

 

I disconnected the lines from the P/S rack, then unbolted the rack from the chassis and let it dangle by the tierods. Made it super-easy.

 

A bit of an angle isn't a problem, just make sure you tap it straight.

 

Funny, I think that's what I told you too Sam. Schwing

 

No you didnt

See if you came down that weekend you were in upstate, you could have done the **** for me. everytime I get under the car to do it I feel like I have parkinsons.

 

Before you drill,tape the drill bit and only expose about 1/2'' of the drill bit,doing this will prevent the drill bit from pulling in further when it breaks through the pan.Make sure you grease the bit too.

 

Guarantee I brought up on the phone that the pan wasn't very thick to begin with so drilling the hole at an angle isn't that big of a deal as long as you cut your threads straight.
I talk smack, but I've never tapped a pan. <--*****

 

i had my engine out of the car for a Braineack-style chassis swap when i tapped mine. Pulled the pan for good measure and used a large drill press. I have the best-tapped pan EVAAR.

 

The best tapped pan ever wouldn't be tapped at all. Would be nice to be able to drill and weld on a real bung to the outside. To bad its far to easy to just drill and tap it in the car.

 

I was able to tack weld my 37/64 drill bit into a deep 1/2 inch socket and then use a 24" and 12" extension to get a perfectly straight shot through the wheel well (w/ PS & AC). It was the only way to do it without removing all kinds of sh*t. I crammed the 3/8 x 18 npt tap into a 16mm x 12pt socket and used the same extensions to do the tapping - everything very slowly with numerous cleanings & greasings. I tacked a pilot bit into a smaller size deep socket to get things started - forget what size...

 

I drilled mine at a substantial angle, probably closer to 20 degrees. Tapped it straight.

 

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Wow, that's smart. If I don't pull the engine and drop the pan, I'm doing that!

 

That was sarcasm, of course you brought it up.

Great idea, except my bit doesn't have a square end, its round. :(

As for the tap, I have a 11/16 deep socket and a 3/8 drive ratchet I plan to use.


Already made myself some baller volume **** bit stops.

 

His bits are round as well, he welded them inside sockets to do that.

 

OH.

I know aluminum is soft, I just cant imagine how long it would take to ratchet a drill bit through the pan, not to mention the physical strength required applied over that length of time.