Thanks lee,

I was going for a custom CNC simple box to fit it, and epoxy to seal the board from water. I am supposed to be recieving the first built board to test sometime within the next couple of days. I know the company that printed them turned them into a dual sided PCB for better soldering. They also mentioned other tweaks but they were too many to remember.

I'll snap some pictures when I get it.

Travis

 

TravisR,

Depending on price, count me in for a built unit!

Cheers,
Tony

 

Hey guys,

I'm starting a new thread in the forum called dwell reducer group buy. Cya there...

 

Would a 10,000PF capacitor work. I spoke to the guys and Fry's and they suggested I give it a try, but they didn't seem confident, and it looks tiny compared to what I expected.

 

10,000 pF? That's 0.01 microfarads, or about 1,000,000 times smaller than needed...

 

I guess thats why it was so tiny. I'll keep looking, Thanks

 

Never would have thought I could get something At Radio Shack I couldn't find at Fry's.

on the 1k Resistor, is a 1watt ok, they also had 1/4 watt, and 10 watt.

These things are amazingly large.

 

Whenever we started assembling these boards we had to make modifications to the most up to date print to make it work. Did anyone check the latest schematic for perfect function?

 

Hey guys..

Do I need a dwell reducer if I run Toyota COPs on a 91 1.6 ?

Thanks

 

I'd be keen on one of these boards if someone else wants to go halves in an order too?

 

After reading this entire thread, I have made the assumption that if you go with the 4700uF caps then you put one at the harness split for the 2 separate coils correct (1/3) and (2/4)? That is at least how everybody else is doing it I assume?

 

Sorry to bump this thread but I'm doing this as my last resort, does anyone have the final Schematic and parts list that was posted here which made it adjustable? The pcb layout is still there since they were attachments but the inline images have gone missing. Can someone please post it if they have? For a 1.6 in my case. Thanks!

 

Unless I'm going crazy* it looks to me as if the original schematic is drawn wrong. The + and - inputs of the op-amps should be the other way around to make each stage inverting. There's no negative feedback. It'll just latch up.

*Always an option.

<edit> No, I take it back. Crazy it is. It looks like the resistor values have been chosen so it can work like a comparator (not a low-gain inverting amp like I assumed). Carry on. Never mind me.