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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 01-29-2010, 04:42 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeneSplicer View Post
I used a cast 1.6 T3 manifold (ebay) for my build. It should work fine (until it cracks?) but ran in to problems immediately. You cannot use the center 2 upper nuts b/c it didn't have the clearance between the stud and casting. We had to back out the studs, GRIND the manifold some to gain clearance, then use some bolts. And the center lower nut was a PITA to get on as it also was very tight. Other than brand names off ebay, my CX intercooler, oil cooler, and godspeed radiator were the only 'cheap' things. The cooler is being moved and will NOT be resting on the intercooler pipes...

You can see the 2 bolts I am referring too...



you havnt tried to drive your car yet have you?





cause it looks like your turbo isnt clocked right! i may just be stupid but in your first pic with the way its clocked right there on top is where the drain block or barbed fitting with flange bolts too (which means your drain is pointing up)
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Old 01-29-2010, 08:59 AM   #22
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That pic was taken as he was in the fitting/fab stage. We ran it, all is well. He might have rotated it, but he had to remove and open the bearing housing and clean/flush b/c as he was backing out the brass oil feed elbow (on top), it dumped little flakes into the housing. The way it is now, oil feed at top, drain on bottom, coolant from and out sides. Here's a finished pic.

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Old 01-29-2010, 09:55 AM   #23
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Gene- are you sure about those two mani studs? I read somewhere (maybe here) that the nuts just needed to be positioned before the mani was flush to the head and then start threading as the flange is moved towards the head. I have to do the same thing with a couple of my turbine housing nuts/studs.
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Old 01-29-2010, 11:18 AM   #24
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Man, we tried and tried, but the nut 'lip' would not give enough clearance for straight-on threading. We just decided instead of dicking around with a nut, we'd just pull the stud and use bolts. Wasn't that big of deal, but it was not a perfect fit... not that I'd think that for what I paid for it. Now the oil filter sandwich plate adapter was a piece of ****. Only had clearance for oil cooler lines at the 2'oclock position, very course threads (we have to run a tap through it to clean the threads) AND would not accept the standard filter b/c the internal milling left 2 corners exposed that the filter seal didn't cover... so it leaked like a SOB when we cranked it. I had to get a 2 filters and take the o-ring from one and stuff it in the outer non-ring lip on the other... basically has an outer and inner o-ring. It's working, but a F'ed up scenario. I WILL be looking to get a better one. This is the one I bought... DON'T

New TD Oil Cooler Sandwich adapter 1990-04 Mazda Miata
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New TD Oil Cooler Sandwich adapter 1990-04 Mazda Miata : eBay Motors (item 280436709319 end time Feb-08-10 02:07:02 PST)
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Old 01-29-2010, 11:30 AM   #25
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Also to add, the housing (just looked) is flanged both top and bottom on the oil feed/drain. BUT he did flip it around, as I mentioned, he just had it there for fitment purposes. Good eye! The guy who did this rebuilds and installs turbos professionally, I highly doubt he'd get it backwards!
Supernaturalturbo.com
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Old 01-29-2010, 12:34 PM   #26
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well this discussion was on wastegates and manifolds...I was asking mainly on the turbo... didnt see much to it...
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Old 01-29-2010, 09:01 PM   #27
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just making sure! it just popped out at me and thought i would ask!
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