no oil pressure after rebuild
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Kelowna, BC, Canada
Posts: 133
Total Cats: 0
no oil pressure after rebuild
I've tried searching for over an hour, but can't find any info/suggestions to this:
I've done a rebuild on my 1.6 AVO turbo, got everything back together, but tried cranking it over without plugs (as per Haynes manual), and there is ZERO oil pressure. I triple checked to make sure we put oil in, and it reads full. I had a running system before winter, so the pan was already tapped, so a knick in the pickup tube is not the culprit.
I suspected a bad oil pressure gauge, so I tried unhooking the oil feed line to the turbo to see if there was any flow, but there is nothing. Taking it a step further, I took the oil filter off and cranked it over, expecting some oil to at least dribble or squirt out -- but nothing. (I'm guessing the oil system flow doesn't have to be "closed", per se, to get pressure)
Is the next step to pull the engine and remove that pan to see what the pickup is doing? (or alternately, drop the subframe)
The battery was a little weak, so it wasn't cranking over at full speed. It was cranking at a fairly good rpm (IMHO)...could this be the problem?
The other possibility is a bad oil pump. I’m “assuming” it’s good, since it is brand new and OEM. I’ll be certainly pissed if this is the problem.
Any other suggestions??
I've done a rebuild on my 1.6 AVO turbo, got everything back together, but tried cranking it over without plugs (as per Haynes manual), and there is ZERO oil pressure. I triple checked to make sure we put oil in, and it reads full. I had a running system before winter, so the pan was already tapped, so a knick in the pickup tube is not the culprit.
I suspected a bad oil pressure gauge, so I tried unhooking the oil feed line to the turbo to see if there was any flow, but there is nothing. Taking it a step further, I took the oil filter off and cranked it over, expecting some oil to at least dribble or squirt out -- but nothing. (I'm guessing the oil system flow doesn't have to be "closed", per se, to get pressure)
Is the next step to pull the engine and remove that pan to see what the pickup is doing? (or alternately, drop the subframe)
The battery was a little weak, so it wasn't cranking over at full speed. It was cranking at a fairly good rpm (IMHO)...could this be the problem?
The other possibility is a bad oil pump. I’m “assuming” it’s good, since it is brand new and OEM. I’ll be certainly pissed if this is the problem.
Any other suggestions??
#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Kelowna, BC, Canada
Posts: 133
Total Cats: 0
shouldn't I at least get oil flowing/squirting out the oil filter nipple if it is removed though?
I tried cranking over without spark plugs on and off for probably 10 mins, maybe more. I'm scared of doing too much because I just rebuilt with Wiseco/Carillo/ARP bottom end and Supertech topend.
I tried cranking over without spark plugs on and off for probably 10 mins, maybe more. I'm scared of doing too much because I just rebuilt with Wiseco/Carillo/ARP bottom end and Supertech topend.
#5
You must pre-lube the oil pump and I presume this step was skipped.
You can accomplish it now with a pre lube device. Ask someone that builds spec Miata engines...they'll know.
Sometimes you can pressurize the crankcase using compressed air through an oil fitting and force oil into the pump.
You can accomplish it now with a pre lube device. Ask someone that builds spec Miata engines...they'll know.
Sometimes you can pressurize the crankcase using compressed air through an oil fitting and force oil into the pump.
#11
Elite Member
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Central California
Posts: 2,554
Total Cats: 4
if you are talking about the dashboard gauge, if the Oil pump was packed with prelube (i used assembly grease last time) it took me about 20 seconds of cranking over to see pressure, not sure how long if you dont pack the pump first
#13
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Kelowna, BC, Canada
Posts: 133
Total Cats: 0
ok, so sounds like priming the pump is the way to go. I DIDN'T do that step...haven't read anything about that (in the Haynes manual and I just didn't see it??)
Thanks for the tips, cjernigan and m2cupcar! I'm going to have to take a look at my engine to figure out where that fitting is...what normally goes there? Is there something already in that port (plug?), I don't remember attaching anything there?
Thanks for the tips, cjernigan and m2cupcar! I'm going to have to take a look at my engine to figure out where that fitting is...what normally goes there? Is there something already in that port (plug?), I don't remember attaching anything there?
#15
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Kelowna, BC, Canada
Posts: 133
Total Cats: 0
m2cupcar: I think that's the plug for the oil dipstick when the engine is in the 323. It's on the exhaust side though, if it's the plug I'm thinking of...is your picture possibly reversed/mirror image?
#19
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Kelowna, BC, Canada
Posts: 133
Total Cats: 0
Thanks to everyone for their input (esp. M2cupcar for the pic). I tried removing the plug on the intake side of the oil pump, but couldn't bust it loose (ended up rounding out the allen key socket). So, I removed the filter, stuck in a length of clear vinyl hose with a funnel on the end and filled up the pump as much as possible.
Woohoo! It only took about 20 secs of cranking and we got oil pressure, and you could hear within a few seconds when the oil starting getting squirted into the cylinders.
To anyone installing /re-installing their oil pump: make sure you prime the pump by filling it with oil or by packing with petroleum jelly. Note: the Haynes manual talks about the petroleum jelly in the "Inspection" section of the oil pump re & re, NOT in the "Installation" section. I only read the installation section because I bought a new pump and didn't think I needed to inspect it...duh! wrong!
Woohoo! It only took about 20 secs of cranking and we got oil pressure, and you could hear within a few seconds when the oil starting getting squirted into the cylinders.
To anyone installing /re-installing their oil pump: make sure you prime the pump by filling it with oil or by packing with petroleum jelly. Note: the Haynes manual talks about the petroleum jelly in the "Inspection" section of the oil pump re & re, NOT in the "Installation" section. I only read the installation section because I bought a new pump and didn't think I needed to inspect it...duh! wrong!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Zaphod
MEGAsquirt
47
10-26-2018 11:00 PM
stoves
Suspension, Brakes, Drivetrain
5
04-21-2016 03:00 PM
JesseTheNoob
DIY Turbo Discussion
15
09-30-2015 02:44 PM