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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 05-26-2010, 03:11 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vashthestampede View Post
OK I'm all set! Just ordered the GT2870!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=120574646411

Now I'll order all the other shitz I need to get this bar back on the road. I'm ******* paying insurance every month and it just sits!!!

Thanks again for all the help making the decision!

Phil, did you have to clock anything to make it work? From the pictures it seems that I should be good to go. Shows a side mount manifold and the regular 5 bolt dp flange, just like what I have in the car now.

Now I'm wondering if my existing oil feed/drain setup is going to work. I think it might not actually.
More than likely you will need to clock everything so it sits right. But since it's brand new it will be easy. Just loosen all the bolts and spin to correct position. The water and oil drain should be the same. The oil feed fitting will not, IIRC it's a tad bit bigger.
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Old 05-26-2010, 03:12 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by hingstonwm View Post
Wow, 300.00 don't break the bank!!!

Seriously there are times that I wish I still had a miata engine in my project car. My turbo alone was 5x the cost of what you putting on.

I am interested to find out what kind of service life you guys are getting out of these chinachargers
There are chinachargers that have been on people's track cars for years. I see no reason to expect that they wont last as long as garrett journal bearing turbos. I rebuilt my garrett with what i'm sure are chinese parts and its been working flawlessly for 2 years now.
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Old 05-26-2010, 03:39 PM   #23
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Subscribed anticipating positive results. Good thread for future chinacharger shoppers.
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Old 05-26-2010, 03:41 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by levnubhin View Post
I love my turbo, You cant do better for $300 shipped. I'm happy with the power output and spool.
Man I can't wait until my motor break in period is done. It sucks driving around town trying to stay out of boost.

I'm running the same china 2870. Quality seems good,a dn has a 1yr replacement warranty
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Old 05-26-2010, 03:47 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by djp0623 View Post
Man I can't wait until my motor break in period is done. It sucks driving around town trying to stay out of boost.

I'm running the same china 2870. Quality seems good,a dn has a 1yr replacement warranty
Why are you trying to stay out of boost? You should have been beating the **** out of it from the first time you warmed it up and changed the oil. Disconnect the wastegate if it makes you that uncomfortable. Lots of WOT and engine breaking . Profit.
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Old 05-26-2010, 08:13 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Jeff_Ciesielski View Post
Why are you trying to stay out of boost? You should have been beating the **** out of it from the first time you warmed it up and changed the oil. Disconnect the wastegate if it makes you that uncomfortable. Lots of WOT and engine breaking . Profit.
+1 The first twenty minutes should be under high load at varying rpms, but this is a threadjack.
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Old 05-26-2010, 08:49 PM   #27
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I thought you were suppose to stay out of boost during break in but get it under as much load as possible while not going above 100kpa with lots of engine braking.
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Old 05-26-2010, 08:52 PM   #28
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We should start a new thread.
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Old 05-27-2010, 04:08 PM   #29
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I have (mostly) the same question as OP, and since he seems to have purchased his, and it would be retarded to open an identical thread, hopefully this isn't a threadjack.

I've been running a greddy (6psi), hacked up Racing mazda downpipe, IC, Bipes, AFPR for 1.5 years or so. This summer I'm going to install my link ecu, rx7 440's, pierburg fuel pump, redo the IC piping cleaner.

While I was at it I decided to change the turbo setup in order to get a watercooled turbo with a little more oomph to it, and get rid of the RM downpipe, which has a secondary o2 bung added at such an angle that it makes my LC-1 sensor rub against the frame from time to time, which recently cost me a sensor.

Anyways, I ordered the cx racing manifold/DP, and now I need a chinacharger to go with.
CX says the manny/dp will fit a mitsubishi t25 16g but are no more specific than that.
best cantidate I could find was this one.
Anyone see a problem with this turbo, or able to point out a better one?
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Old 05-27-2010, 04:19 PM   #30
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What's your goal?

If I had a 1.6 I wouldve gone with a t3 combo. They're so cheap is ridiculous.
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Old 05-27-2010, 04:22 PM   #31
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goal is just a bit over 200 at the wheels. I don't want a ton, ~200 would suit me fine, if they were available in the lower half of the rev band.

I looked at the T3, but I don't have a manifold/downpipe to fit it, either the greddy/rm combo, or the CX manifold/DP
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Old 05-27-2010, 04:28 PM   #32
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Tacotaco sells a t3 dp, but for 200whp you dont need it. Just get the t25/t28, with something similar to this specs

inducer 46.5mm/60mm
turbine 53mm

and you got yourself a 2560.
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Old 05-27-2010, 05:27 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buffon01 View Post
Tacotaco sells a t3 dp, but for 200whp you dont need it. Just get the t25/t28, with something similar to this specs

inducer 46.5mm/60mm
turbine 53mm

and you got yourself a 2560.
I have not verified it but if that is the case on the sizing that is a great turbo for troniks goals. I still miss my 2560.
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Old 05-27-2010, 05:42 PM   #34
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Those specs are from the Garrett page
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Old 05-27-2010, 09:54 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tronik View Post
goal is just a bit over 200 at the wheels. I don't want a ton, ~200 would suit me fine, if they were available in the lower half of the rev band.

I looked at the T3, but I don't have a manifold/downpipe to fit it, either the greddy/rm combo, or the CX manifold/DP
That manifold doesn't seem bad at all, any ideas on what downpipe you would use?
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Old 05-27-2010, 10:16 PM   #36
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ok, I am full of failrage towards myself for not being able to figure this out. I've looked through pretty much every chinacharger ebay offers (HUNDREDS) and I'm still not confident I'm not going to choose something that will definitely fit the CXracing manifold/downpipe. I emailed CXracing yesterday asking them if they sold any turbos that were known to fit. I doubt I'll get a response. (*edit - "For this combination, I don’t know" - not surprised. This was funny though: "We have sold a lot of this manifold + DP sets, no complaints, so they work")

Anyway I think I have one picked out, if someone could do me a favor and check my work.

For reference again, here is the CXracing manifold and downpipe combo I ordered. Their description "Fits 16G Mitsubishi turbo/T25"

But almost all the "T25" chinachargers sold have five bolt downpipe flanges.

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as can be seen in the pic of the CX downpipe, it's using a 4-bolt flange - probably DSM spec 4-bolt



The only two Turbos I found that I think have a shot at fitting are the following:

TACOTACO's BIG 16G TURBO TD05 INTERNAL WASTEGATE LANCER EVO 4G63



The problem I see with this one is that it isn't identifying it as a T25 anywhere - only as a TD05. I googled a bunch trying to see if it was the same thing. Found several people wondering as well, no really concrete answers. Particularly whether not just the manifold->turbo flange is the same, but whether the turbo->DP flange is the same, and in same place relative to the manifold flange.

The other turbo looks like the closest thing to what I was looking for -

T25 Turbo Charger internal wastegated Mazda Miata MX-5

The only problem I see with this one is that the compressor wheel specs are way off the garrett 2560 specs buffon recommended.

Specs are as follows:

tdo5 - Compressor Wheel .70 A/R Cold Side 12psi spring
Inducer 48.15mm /Exducer 67.82 Trim: 50
Turbine Mitsu Style 4 Bolt Flange ind: 55.85mm Exd: 48.90 mm

t25 - Compressor Wheel 0.60 A/R 7psi spring
Cold Side Inducer 38.74 mm /Exducer 52.20 mm Trim: 55

would that T25 even be an improvement over the greddy mitsu TD04H?

I feel retarded for asking further questions... The intricacies of turbo sizing are not something I know yet, and the wife being due in a week is seriously hampering my research time.

So which (if either) would you purchase to hopefully work with the CX manny/do with no (major) fitment issues?

Last edited by tronik; 05-27-2010 at 11:45 PM.
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Old 05-27-2010, 10:50 PM   #37
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As far as i know, the T25 DSM turbo's are the only one with a four bolt flange as opposed to the SR20 T25 which is the 5 bolt design.
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Old 05-27-2010, 11:24 PM   #38
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Very interesting as I am beginning to search for something myself.
I'm still working on proper sizing for my nearly 2.0L, and seems like 3076 is fitting the bill.

What I'm curious about is if a Tial Vband housing will be compatible with the Chikety China turbos.....might make for a decent setup
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Old 05-27-2010, 11:46 PM   #39
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To get dimensions for various flanges, go to the Garrett site, pick a turbo (with the flanges you want to look at), click on it, then click on the flange dimensions link.
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...41_1_4_new.pdf
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Old 05-28-2010, 12:01 AM   #40
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interesting...
As per this picture, the manifold I will be using has a round flange too



that fouls things up for me on the second, "T25" turbo, since from what I can tell based on the auction's crappy pictures, it has a rectangular port, like it should



half my confusion picking a turbo for this man/DP may be because I'm a newb with turbo specifications, and perhaps half is because CX doesn't know what the hell they are selling. It's quite possible that the man/dp is meant to fit a TD05-16G and not a "16G Mitsubishi turbo/T25"
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