Have a look at the posts above, if you didn't change any other settings then boost control wasn't activating the valve.

easiest way to do it is the test mode aidandj posted

but really you should stop blowing your car and start driving it. Took me about 5 pulls to get things figured out

Excuse my noobness, but I'm a little confused, theres just been many people saying different things so I ned someone to set me straight.

So what am I looking for while doing a pull with the test mode active? I understand I'm trying to achieve the fastest spool but what in TS will show me results? and do I set the pulse frequency to my solenoid frequency?

Test mode is only used if you want to do the blow test to verify your valve is working.

Otherwise you need to start tuning open loop as outlined previously or in closed loop setup mode.

if you need more help with the subject maybe start a new discussion so this thread doesn't turn into "how to boost control"

Yep good idea. ill do that now.

I used to use a GReddy Profec B Spec II (gotta love those Japanese product names) with my Hydra and 2560. The Hydra EBC was useless, the GReddy worked quite well and was fairly straightforward to set up. MS3 1.3.x wasn't quite as stable and was a bit more complex to set up, but offered TPS-based boost control which was enough of an improvement that I ditched the GReddy at that point. MS3 1.4.x is better in all ways than the GReddy was.

--Ian

getting things dialed in with the 3psi spring, looks like it will work well for 8-9psi. much easier to tune the boost control than i thought it would be.

i read a few posts about skipping OL and going straight for CL with MS3, and i have to agree. instead of having to tune the whole table its just tuning for a specific target.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...68d6b5891e.png

Finally got around to swapping the right front knuckle and hub to one from an ABS car. Vss1 & 2 are working, just need to fiddle with the calibration on the dakota digital box to see about getting them closer. Vss2 reads about 1.5mph higher at 65.

What are you using the dakota digital box for?

using it as a VR conditioner for the ABS speed sensor. was going to use a jbperf vr conditioner but he didn't have any ready when I was ordering parts. i still ended up ordering one just in case the dakota didn't work.

Gotcha makes sense. Make sure the input settings are the same for the megasquirt. No sensor lag or anything

I just left it at the default 50 lag factor on both inputs, i'll see what it does without that. both feeds are looking good on the logs. except the abs sensor speed drops off below 4mph, which i assume is just because the frequency isn't high enough at the low speed.

I'll have to look at my logs, but i think it should work that low. The amplitude of the VR signal will be quite small though, so the dakota box might not be catching it?

you may be correct there, when hand spinning the wheel it doesn't indicate a signal input(its got a flashy led when its getting an input) until you get to what shows as 4mph on the tunerstudio gauge. i just assumed the gear resloution...

i'll give the jbperf board a shot whenever it arrives.

I'll try and remember to check tonight

Swapped out the turbosmart single for the dual port wastegate, also replaced the BW bpv with the turbosmart version. Had to make a hardware run so didn't get to wire in the 4 port mac solenoid, will get that done tomorrow along with retuning closed loop boost.

I should also add that with 2 turns preload on the 3psi spring the wastegate actuator would rattle, added another turn and it stopped.

long story short I got a ticket for having SD plates on the car. tried the texas kit car registration route and found out at the auto theft inspection that my donor came with a swapped engine, so I technically have no proof of ownership for the engine since the stamped serial number doesn't match the vin on my title...BUMMER!

but found a built bottom end nearby that I'll be able to have a bill of sale for. Was planning to build my own but the price was right.

Wiseco 84mm 10.5:1 pistons, molnar rods, king steel lined bearings (from a kia i guess), torque plate bored/honed and some super awesome PINK paint. Came with a head thats been ported and flow tested...I'll quote the seller

will be running E85 always. hope to get it on the dyno mid May. Already ordered ATI damper, Boundary stage 2+, TSE oil cooler kit. Will probably just swap heads for now and build up the ported one over the next couple months.

Pics just beacuse

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ec13287292.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...dd36371bc1.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a8e9182b7.jpeg

VIN is on the oil pan. Just buy one with a BOS and swap it on. I would have to do the same with my car for the same reason if I tried to build a kit from it.

vin on oil pan matches. its the stamped serial number on the block that doesn't match the VIN.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...dccc09eae1.png

Whelp, I have learned something. And that is super anoying.

How long did that take to yank the motor? Like all of 3 minutes? So...much...room.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...62c149ff27.jpg
That moment when you realize the o-ring fell out when installing the oil pump...and you just put the oil pan on :mad:

I did the exact same thing. Tiny dab of rtv on the o ring helps it stay in place.

Also check the Allen headed oil plug mine leaked. And maybe use an OEM front seal based on some recent experiences.

I remembered the bit of rtv the second time around. I saw all the talk about the front seal, i think i have an oem one sitting in a box somewhere.

Not sure if it's necessary. But if you have one it makes sense to install it now.

well this escalated quickly. grabbed an 01 6spd while i was on vacation in FL, ditched the FM1 clutch for a 949 kevlar twin disc. had a shop swap over parts into the ported head, and upgraded the valve springs. also going to swap out the dw200 for a 300 just in case for running E85. grabbed a set of d585 truck coils and harness.

no sense in doing things twice, might as well just go for allofit.

Waiting on a shifter kit for the six speed, i'm about ready to get started with E85.

Seems the general consensus is to leave everything set for gas, except change req_fuel, and tune normally.

What about the stoich setting in TS? Leave it at 14.7 since that is what the mtx-l will output at lambda 1? This echoes whatever I can find in searching here.

This forum is great, so much information available just need to dig a bit to find it. Was having trouble getting it to start, read through a few of the E85 threads and Car is up and running on E85. Warmed it up and took a lap around my apartments...forgot to hit "start autotune" out of excitement. Will change the oil and get to breaking it in and tuning this week.

Lessons learned for changing over to E85:

Timing - needs moar at idle and cranking. I'm sure I'll play with it a bit, but was having issues getting the car to run. Upped cranking and idle to 15*, with an area of 17* just below idle to "catch" it
Fuel - Adjusted req_fuel for E85, Had to lower my VE table by about 20pts.

Also - carbon/kevlar twin disc seems to be about perfection

So the rear main seal carrier is chewing up seals when I press them in, took a gamble and ran it. Well it leaked terribly as expected. I have it back out, any ideas for smoothing out the gouges? Really really trying to avoid pulling the pan AGAIN.

Circled the area that is causing problems.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f08788d700.jpg

Very fine emery cloth (400 or greater). Use light oil on it, to help contain the chips. Stuff a cloth inside first if you're really paranoid.

Did exactly this and the seal went in fine. I don't know why expected any other solution...:eggplant:

If i could negcat myself I would. :hatecat:

Well I'm back legal and driving again. Car runs great on E85 and I'm digging the twin disc, I've got a hair over 200 miles on the new engine. Installed a larger intercooler tonight, looks a lot better than the cute lil one I had on there too.

EBC is holding 5psi. Hoping to head to the dyno before the end of the month. Didn't realize the onboard MAP sensor is only good to 22psi so I'll be limited until I can swap out for the mapdaddy. I fully expect it to be un-driveable above about 15, but will be fun to see the numbers.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c858016c40.jpg

short term to do list:
d585's, mapdady, AEM selector switch boost knob, aluminum charge pipes, 3.63 gears, iq3 street dash(maybe aim strada)...then maybe I can call it finished.

lol

Just realized I hadn't posted any pics of the new wheels/tires. 15x10 with 245 RS4s...https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d0c3192584.jpg

What process did you use to become legal with a Texas title? Still using Miata VIN?

Texas assigned vin#
Assembled Vehicle, Replica 1967 Lotus, Custom Vehicle plates(I think they messed this up, will follow up with them soon)

Have a look at chapter 4 of the Texas Assembled Vehicle Manual

I'd suggest even taller rear end than a 3.63.

That way you can 30psi and not be a baby back binch. :party:

cant do that without a getrag though right?

I thought there was a 3.33 or something for our diffs. I might be wrong. It's not a mazda oem part.

There are about 4 or 5 3.3's in the US right now. All of them are potentially out of round. MFactory is maybe working on more. I know this because one is in my room right now next to me lol.

Anything lower than the 4.10 i have right now will be an improvement. Ive read about the mythical 3.3s...but i'm not gonna hold my breath.

Glad to see this coming along, especially so much work out of an apt garage!.

Makes me want to utilize my space more efficiently.

3.63s are good for 160+ at stock rev limit with a 6 speed. I'd say that's plenty for an open cockpit.

Not so much concerned with top speed, it's a street car so more interested in cruising RPM and traction.

Cruising rpm is a concern in an open wheel open cockpit car?

I think a 3.6 is the perfect ratio for this car IMO

I still chirp 3rd with 3.63 rear end and 110whp, so that's why I suggested even taller. But 4.10 must be brutal. Its a 15% torque reduction or something like that going from 4.10 to 3.63 that should help I guess.

Bald winter tires?

Flat shift set at 7500rpm.

Yeah ffs, I shift at 7100. chirped with re71rs too. I was surprised.

Umm, I'd call that operator error...

I guess I could add a muffler or bring the exhaust all the way out the back, but currently running 3" with a 22" resonator and a turndown at the diff. 6th at 65 was not enjoyable, but with the 5 speed it was tolerable and could still have a conversation with the passenger.

Conversations are overrated

Almost 2 years since the last update on this...

Running E85 only
Swapped out Trackspeed COPs for IGN1As and Magnecor wires
275/50/15 rear tires
Swapped 6258 for 6758
Skunk2 manifold
DW300 pump

Finally hit the dyno yesterday, ran into some issues with the head gasket leaking at boost levels over 20ish psi. But managed to make 420hp 407tq @25psi and 12-14* peak timing.
I'm maxing out the ID1000s, which I didn't expect so I'm going to send them out to be tested but will probably add injectors to the next list of things to upgrade.
There is still some room to optimize the boost control for spool, and obviously the timing.

Dyno charted in MPH not RPM.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...24bb4c5332.jpg

Holy bejeesus, that car must be a beast! How are the RS4's handling the power? I'm planning on switching to RC1's to help with traction, my VR1's in the same size as yours just aren't cutting it with much less power.

Edit: saw you are running 275's now. What tire and how are they holding up with that power? Post some pics if you get a chance. Would love to see what it looks like now.

I'm currently running the RS4's in the front, and Mickey Thompson ET Street S/S 275s in the rear. The RS4's as you'd expect presented some traction challenges even before I put the 6758 on there.

Please post a pic of the new tires on, would love to see it! How is the handling and driving with the ET street s/s tires in the rear? Considered using those, but was worried about it killing the handling.