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Old 06-27-2010, 06:36 AM   #41
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Originally Posted by j555pre View Post
Is your yurbo on the manifold yet and bolted to the car? does the 200sx downpipe clear the gearbox? The satndard cast iron one I had didn't. The stainless one I bought just needed a small amount of an unused lug on the gearbox removing.

If you down pipe doesn't fit at least you can cut the flange off it and start your build from there. I'll try and sort some pics today but it is the grand prix and the england germany match so no promises
No problem thanks. I will be watching both as well.

I havent started the build yet. I intended to get all the parts first then do the build. I wanted to keep running the car as long as possible. Its not my main car but I enjoy a ride out a few times a week.

I never got the full downpipe. I got a small cast iron piece that is about 8" and bends off from the turbo.

I could probably get a downpipe from the guy who sold me the turbo as he said I could have one if needed.
But I want to try and get a 3" stainless one if I can so I do the job right the first time round.
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Old 06-27-2010, 06:56 PM   #42
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A few pics

[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
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Old 06-27-2010, 09:20 PM   #43
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geez dude, clean up the header wrap.
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Old 06-27-2010, 11:08 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by j555pre View Post
A few pics

[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]

Type of muffler?
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Old 06-28-2010, 04:17 AM   #45
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I have lots to clean up, including most of the underside of the car. I might take the header wrap off as I've read mixed reviews about it.

The rear muffler is made by a company called powerflow, its glass packed and alledgedly repackable. It all hangs on the standard hangers and allowed me not to have too many bends in there. There is a small muffler (silencer) just after the flex joint.
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Old 06-28-2010, 05:30 PM   #46
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Nice exhaust. Looks nice and straight that what I would like.
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Old 06-28-2010, 05:36 PM   #47
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Me and my brother (who is a pretty decent welder) just picked up 10 feet of 2.5" ss tubing and two 180 degree bends and he should be making my exhaust for me sometime this week. I asked him to take some pictures, so I'll post them up for ya. Just a nice 2.5" pipe from cat-back...No resonator, no muffler, no problems.

Last edited by miatacross; 06-29-2010 at 07:04 PM.
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Old 06-28-2010, 06:18 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by j555pre View Post
A few pics

[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
what is the size of that cannister?
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Old 06-29-2010, 06:19 PM   #49
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The rear silencer is 400mm x 200mm
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Old 06-29-2010, 06:23 PM   #50
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exactly what I got.
Thanx
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Old 06-30-2010, 09:46 AM   #51
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Is the exhaust noisey with that size silencer?
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Old 06-30-2010, 02:30 PM   #52
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I have just ordered a 5 x 8 x 18 straight through magnaflow muffler. Its alittle smaller than Y8S but so will be alittle louder but still hopefully exceptable.
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Old 06-30-2010, 05:20 PM   #53
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in 5x8x18 magnaflow canister it's easier to fit with offset inlet/center outlet, that's what I have used mostly and it's what I have on my car. Way too f'in loud with no turbo, I had to add a plug in it over the winter w/no turbo. With a 2560 it's still pretty loud, noticeably louder than my old twins. Booo. That bigass Y8S/braineak canister might be in my future.
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Old 06-30-2010, 06:22 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by y8s View Post
lolwut, did you just MIG a stainless exhaust?

seriously though, im in a similar welding situation as you were, i guess. (im 19 and have a little experience) I've only done MIG, but I'm relatively proficient with steel having done a fair amount of work, reading a little online, and just kind of "picking it up". However, I may be interested in getting an inexpensive TIG setup; what would you guys recommend for doing an exhaust like this, that would be "cost-justifiable"?

Also, I had a very reputable welder help me make a pulsejet one time (rolled, fitted and welded), he said it was a bit of a task to fit (after my excellent sheet cutting skills..) because with stainless you cant have any gaps in the joint being welded. To what extent is that true? can you get away with less than "perfect" with stainless or is it not all that hard to square up the ends with a bench sander or something? I can get pretty straight cuts on pipe with a hacksaw though, especially with the blade set up for pull stroke.
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Old 06-30-2010, 06:54 PM   #55
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you can mig anything.

I welded aluminized tubing to a stainless muffler. works fine. just need the right wire and shielding gas.
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Old 06-30-2010, 06:57 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboTim View Post
in 5x8x18 magnaflow canister it's easier to fit with offset inlet/center outlet, that's what I have used mostly and it's what I have on my car. Way too f'in loud with no turbo, I had to add a plug in it over the winter w/no turbo. With a 2560 it's still pretty loud, noticeably louder than my old twins. Booo. That bigass Y8S/braineak canister might be in my future.
Mine is a straght through with center in and outlet. This should still be ok shouldnt it? I know Y8S exhaust was offset but The guy at the shop said it was better been straight. Hopefully with the smaller size I should be able to the bends where I need them.
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Old 06-30-2010, 10:54 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SKMetalworks View Post
if you know how to use a chop saw grinder and a welder, you can do it, its easy just takes time. My first exhaust hung low and used shitty 3 bolt clamps. My last exhaust is tucked nicely and utilizes v band clamps. Worth the money imo.
I noticed. I drag the ******* thing on everything.

And I'm not even low.
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Old 07-01-2010, 08:38 AM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ronniebiggs View Post
Mine is a straght through with center in and outlet. This should still be ok shouldnt it? I know Y8S exhaust was offset but The guy at the shop said it was better been straight. Hopefully with the smaller size I should be able to the bends where I need them.
If the guy doing the exhaust says to go with what you have then that should be ok. When I did my first I ordered in a bunch of mufflers in different offsets, including the one Y8s ultimately used and thought hte 5x8x18 offset/center was the biggest I could fit. (Obviously y8s showed how to fit the larger canister later.) For me the offset/center was easier to package.
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Old 07-01-2010, 08:41 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NickC View Post

Also, I had a very reputable welder help me make a pulsejet one time (rolled, fitted and welded), he said it was a bit of a task to fit (after my excellent sheet cutting skills..) because with stainless you cant have any gaps in the joint being welded. To what extent is that true? can you get away with less than "perfect" with stainless or is it not all that hard to square up the ends with a bench sander or something? I can get pretty straight cuts on pipe with a hacksaw though, especially with the blade set up for pull stroke.
What's a pulsejet? I don't have google.

I have filled in huge gaps in stainless with my Tig, I've also "sculpted" **** with it, just using filler wire to build up material where I needed it (making stops for the handle on my lawnmower so it wouldn't be so sloppy, etc). Not ideal for strength but easy to do with the control you have with a tig. But if you need the joint to be strong, like in a manifold, then there should be no gap.
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Old 07-01-2010, 11:52 AM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ronniebiggs View Post
Mine is a straght through with center in and outlet. This should still be ok shouldnt it? I know Y8S exhaust was offset but The guy at the shop said it was better been straight. Hopefully with the smaller size I should be able to the bends where I need them.
you need center inlet at least. I think you can manage the outlet with the offset or center but the offset gives you a little more tailpipe space (outlet mounted away from the bumper).
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