Fav ebay intercooler kit? update with pics
#24
Got the angle steel sized and drilled for mounting. I decided i'm going to weld each core support bracket to the steel instead of trying to bolt it up. It's mocked up in the pics, but that is exactly where it will sit when completed.
I still have to cut out space on each side of the airdam for the piping
With everything back together the ic should fill up the entire mouth of the bumper.
Btw, where's a good place to find 90degree coupler reducers? I need a 2.50-2.25in and a 2.25-2.00in.
I still have to cut out space on each side of the airdam for the piping
With everything back together the ic should fill up the entire mouth of the bumper.
Btw, where's a good place to find 90degree coupler reducers? I need a 2.50-2.25in and a 2.25-2.00in.
#26
Do you need the reducers in metal specifically or can you use silicone? I personally like the gradual 90 degree reducers. Basically a 90 degree elbow that gradually goes from the size you want to whatever.
I believe most here shop at silicone intakes but let them confirm.
I believe most here shop at silicone intakes but let them confirm.
I tried ebay but very limited in stuff that goes to 2.25in.
#27
yeah most are 4"+ for them mad VTEC people
As i said siliconeintakes.com has the stuff u want...black, blue and red...
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/produ...cb4fb1aebec8c9
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/produ...cb4fb1aebec8c9
As i said siliconeintakes.com has the stuff u want...black, blue and red...
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/produ...cb4fb1aebec8c9
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/produ...cb4fb1aebec8c9
#28
As i said siliconeintakes.com has the 2-2.25 u want...black, blue and red...
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/produ...cb4fb1aebec8c9
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/produ...cb4fb1aebec8c9
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/produ...cb4fb1aebec8c9
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/produ...cb4fb1aebec8c9
Last edited by flounder; 02-26-2011 at 06:01 PM.
#31
Ok, got some more work done today. Everything is cut and sized I just have to flare all the ends before I clamp them.
The compressor inlet is a work in progress. Currently I'm still using the begi steup until I think of something different. I still have to find a spot for the bypass valve too.
Sorry for the shitty quality pics, and yes, that is a pink barbie jeep in my garage. No you can't borrow it.
The compressor inlet is a work in progress. Currently I'm still using the begi steup until I think of something different. I still have to find a spot for the bypass valve too.
Sorry for the shitty quality pics, and yes, that is a pink barbie jeep in my garage. No you can't borrow it.
#35
Ok, She's all done. Don't have any new pics but some questions.
Everything is tight and I ended up trying to use my begi sourced bypass valve without recirc by using a check valve. I bought a 2'' to 2.75'' reducer and installed the maf directly on the compressor inlet.
First thing I noticed was that there was a hell of a lot of pressure drop from previously. I was only seeing like 4 psi max where before I was maintaining a steady 7-8psi. (reading from manifold). Second, even with the check valve, the idle is crap. From some testing, I found that if I let the rpms drop below
2k before depressing the clutch it'll idle fine. If I depress the clutch anywhere above 2k when coming to a stop the car almost stalls and will barely stay running at 500rpms. Third, now when approaching 0 vac/boost the car runs super rich (10-1) and falls on it's face. Fourth, it's super jerky on/off when coming off boost. I experienced none of these issues before the IC install.
There is some good news though too. After making sure all of my clamps were tight, I went ahead and turned up the boost to 9 psi. My god, does it feel amazing, and my afr's are great (11.1-1) at 75%dc.
I figure biting the bullet and recirculating will take care of my idle issues and installing an o2 clamp should take care of the jerkiness i'm getting, but what about going rich at 0 vac? I am adding zero fuel at that point with the emb, I think it's got something to do with that check valve?
Any thing I'm missing that will help? I'll get some pics up tomorrow.
Everything is tight and I ended up trying to use my begi sourced bypass valve without recirc by using a check valve. I bought a 2'' to 2.75'' reducer and installed the maf directly on the compressor inlet.
First thing I noticed was that there was a hell of a lot of pressure drop from previously. I was only seeing like 4 psi max where before I was maintaining a steady 7-8psi. (reading from manifold). Second, even with the check valve, the idle is crap. From some testing, I found that if I let the rpms drop below
2k before depressing the clutch it'll idle fine. If I depress the clutch anywhere above 2k when coming to a stop the car almost stalls and will barely stay running at 500rpms. Third, now when approaching 0 vac/boost the car runs super rich (10-1) and falls on it's face. Fourth, it's super jerky on/off when coming off boost. I experienced none of these issues before the IC install.
There is some good news though too. After making sure all of my clamps were tight, I went ahead and turned up the boost to 9 psi. My god, does it feel amazing, and my afr's are great (11.1-1) at 75%dc.
I figure biting the bullet and recirculating will take care of my idle issues and installing an o2 clamp should take care of the jerkiness i'm getting, but what about going rich at 0 vac? I am adding zero fuel at that point with the emb, I think it's got something to do with that check valve?
Any thing I'm missing that will help? I'll get some pics up tomorrow.
#37
On another note, I love the way the depowered rack feels!
Here's some more pics sans bumper cover. I was planning on using a small filter for the breather but maybe that's another reason i'm having issues with stalling and idle quality? More testing to follow.
Last edited by flounder; 03-27-2011 at 10:49 AM.
#40
Problem solved, thanks to TurboTim
I should have known better than to put the maf so close to the turbulent turbo inlet. It caused all sorts of droopy idle shenanigans so I came up with this setup. Here's a before/after.
The only issue now is for some reason I'm getting what sounds like compressor surge on my upshifts where before it sounded like a normal whooshing bov sound. Me thinks it's the check valve...
If anyone is wondering, total cost from start to finish was about $275 bucks.
I should have known better than to put the maf so close to the turbulent turbo inlet. It caused all sorts of droopy idle shenanigans so I came up with this setup. Here's a before/after.
The only issue now is for some reason I'm getting what sounds like compressor surge on my upshifts where before it sounded like a normal whooshing bov sound. Me thinks it's the check valve...
If anyone is wondering, total cost from start to finish was about $275 bucks.
Last edited by flounder; 03-30-2011 at 09:36 PM.