ronniebiggs

great video thanks. I will do that tomorrow.

I think I can kep all the pipe work with a clocked pipe. Only trouble im having with that is figuring out how to get a pipe onto the small end (eg in this instance the turbo water pipe goes to it).

When it is left in the stock location it moves 180 degrees and now faces the turbo which means you have to get an ultra flexi pipe and cable tie it to death so it does touch the turbo. Or move where the pipe attaches.

The way I intended to do this was to drill and tap the cast pipe in a more conveinient place so the pipe goes on easy.

But now thinking about it and please correct me if im wrong. Couldnt I just put a T piece into the 30mm pipe and have the pipe attach to that?

After all it will be just as good as coming out from the cast pipe itself I would assume.

Once I have this problem sorted Im finished the install except the downpipe which I wasnt worried about until Braineack brought it to my attention that it might be a problem getting it fitted

I will cross that bridge when I get to it I suppose.

ronniebiggs

I read what you put but I didnt fully undestand what you meant?

Either loose the thermostat is one option you put.
The other was find a way of making the pipe to clocked pipe work.

Dont know why I would need to loose the thermostat unless you mean a coolant reroute?

Thanks for the help. I will sort it im confident just not confident enough to put a T piece in and use that for the pipe in question without feedback as I really dont want to blow it up 2 secs after I get it up and running after all the hard work. Thats why im been over cautious and asking tedious questions.

i suppose you could say I need some hand holding as was once said to me in this stage due to that lack of people for me to turn to over here on this subject.

Thanks again.

GregTSi

iTrader: (1)

turbo no hit block?

localtech

iTrader: (4)

This is what he is talking about. I had to do this for a Mazdaspeed manifold and t3 turbo to fit. But, doing this will also cause you more problems if you want to retain the ac. It will have to be shimmed out about 1 1/2" to avoid hitting the necks new location. I think you may just need to pull the power steering pump and convert your rack into a manual one. Then figure out a way to get the turbo inlet to the air flow meter.

I dont mind clearing up some questions before this thread becomes out of hand and the ones that want to help you cannot due to the diffrent comments.

Lets help you out braaaaa

fooger03

iTrader: (2)

OP, If you do this, you will need to either find a way to route the coolant line from the back of the head (which goes through the heater core) to this manifold, or remove and live without your thermostat. If you eliminate the heater core AND you retain your thermostat, then at best your thermostat will be forced open under all conditions, and your engine will never warm up. At worst, you will start having mysterious coolant leaks all over the engine bay before you start blowing seals and gaskets. In both cases (best and worst) your water pump will have a significantly decreased service life as it puts a much higher load on the bearings, and you will lose power through your water pump.

OP, this was the intention of my Original post that I "neverminded" on, because when you said "clocked the coolant tube" I initially thought you meant that you did ^^this^^, and then I later decided that you simply turned the hard tube (which goes underneath of the exhaust manifold) so that it pointed in a more advantageous direction.

FWIW, I took a long 3/8" drive extension (while the engine was out of the car) and heated up the bend in that tube. I then used the drive extension to straighten the bend until that hard pipe routed around BEHIND the dipstick tube instead of in front of it. Make sure you get the tube nice and warm though, and go slowly so you dont break/kink the tube too bad. My tube ended up kinked *slightly*, but not enough to noticeably impede coolant flow.