ronniebiggs

Hi,
I have a few questions which I would like to ask if you dont mind.

Is your turbo as close as this to the manifold (Note mine is touching and I will have to cut a small piece off to get it to fit).

How am I going to get the pipe onto the coolant pipe at the side of the block (Eg the lower pipe on the rad to block)

I need to get a 90 degree bend or filter on this somehow (See below)


Finally there is a small metal pipe thats sticks out below the throttle body to the left (Diameter approx 15mm) this used to have a pipe going to the platic that goes to the throtle body so I guess its just a breather. How do you deal with this?

Just put a filter on or block it?

Many Thanks in advance

jamiemiller

i would probably reclock the turbo 180 degrees, it will make life easier when it comes to routing IC/intake piping.

the little hose you are describing sounds like the IAC(Idle aircontrol) if you are ditching it, plug it. IMO.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

what manifold is that?

n/m: AVO

I say clock outlet to point down.

idle valve inlet! needs to be plumbed.

ronniebiggs

The manifold is an AVO manifold supposed to be good. By Clock the turbo do you mean undo the bolts on the side where im having problems and rotate 180 degrees? If I shaved off 2mm of the alloy at the IC inlet it will fit.

That might give me a few probs with I/C pipes not sure.

Where do I pipe to? into the IC piping going to the throttle body?

Also going to have probs with the heater pipe as thats in the way to.

Aricjm15

You need to rotate it. Maybe not 180.
Here is an article about the AVO turbo kit, it might give you a few ideas to help you finish your project. http://www.turbomagazine.com/tech/tu..._turbo_install

ronniebiggs

Thanks I will have a good read of that.

ronniebiggs

Well ive had a read and im still no better off. The pics show the manifold fitted with turbo quite nicely but for some unknown reason mine touches. From the review it is obvious the turbo orientation is correct so I dont really want to rotate it if I dont need to. But it said nothing about touching the lower radiator hose part of the engine and never mentioned that you need to do some sort of modification for the heater pipe as that is to close and in the way of the downpipe.

Only thing I can think is to try and bend the heater pipe (The metal part) and hope it doesnt snap. As for the lower cast pipe that the front of the turbo touches all I can think of at the moment is to take it off the engine and cut it and reweld it so its shorter. Im not keen on doing this and would like to avoid it if possible.

Any suggestions?

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

One of my friends has an AVO kit. I will see if I can get him to post some pictures on here.

ronniebiggs

That would be great if you could thanks

ronniebiggs

Had a better look at the water pipe in question today and moving it 180 degrees isnt an option unless im missing something obvious. I could cut the 90 degree bend part of the pipe and then attach a flexi hose to it. It will still be quite close but it wont touch. rear heater pipe is going to have to be bent.

Either by heating it or brute force. Just hope it can take it as it look thin.
I would prefer to do a coolant reroute now and then it would be done but I need to read up before I take the plunge.

ronniebiggs

I have took of the pipe on the engine block and looking at it, it will clock and make my life easier for the main pipe to lower radiator hose. But then I have the problem of the heater hose and the turbo water hose (the small thin pipe)

I have got some suggestions which I would like some feedback on.
1st I thought if I ran a straight hose from the heater pipe which goes through the bulk head along the inner wing and cable tied it in place then came in from the headlight and down. It would have to be reasonably flexiable silicon but I dont see that been a problem. Then I would chop up the original metal pipe with the 'O' ring on so it was in effect a 90 degree bend and fix the silcon pipe to that and there by use the original inlet on the casting.

The small inlet would now by flipped 180 degrees so that now would be in the way of getting a pipe on it as the turbo is close and doesnt allow for any bends to make a smooth entrance onto the little inlet.

So what I thought again was to weld up that inlet part and have a 'T piece made which could go anywhere in the pipe I cable tied down the inner wing.

Does this sound realistic or do you have any suggestions?

kday

FWIW, I have an AVO manifold for the 1.8 and it looks a lot different. No issues fitting a GT2560 to it or clearing the water pipe.

If you have room between the turbo and the car body, maybe you can fabricate a spacer to bring the turbo out 1/2" or so?

Another option is to ditch the AC compressor and flip the water inlet 180 degrees.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

I agree, dont resemble the other AVO manifolds I've seen. I wonder if it's not meant to be installed that other way (turbo between 1 & 2). Fitting a DP as is will be hell.

kday

My AVO mounds the turbo between 3 and 4 like that -- and came with a cast downpipe piece to make it work.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

aiight. i bet it didnt have cracks that were rewelded though.

miataspeed2005

iTrader: (3)

Clock the turbo and flip the water mixing manifold, simple fix

localtech

iTrader: (4)

Do you have anybody close to you with ANY experience regarding turbo miata's or any car for that matter? a lot of these issues could be fixed in about 30 min's by someone that knows what they are doing.

Good luck with these issues man...

ronniebiggs

My thoughts exact!
I know one person with a turboed miata and they bought it done so they dont know much about turboing them. Turboed miatas are no where near as big in the UK as the US.

The manifold has been welded but it hasnt altered the angle of the manifold etc. The downpipe does look like it will be quite close but I dont think it wont fit. I did think I might have to attach the downpipe then put the turbo on as the length of the studs coming out the turbo might be close.

It did come off a car from a turboed miata over here so it will work. Problem is the level of work required to make it fit.

Im in the process of buying a downpipe off ARtech so I could possibly get Abe to make it thinner at the neck of the downpipe if needed.

I have clocked the water pipe and im getting my dad to tap a hole in the top near the widest neck for the turbo water return. That was the only pipe I was having problems getting back on as when you clock the pipe the part in question was near to te turbo presenting a few problems.

A spacer plate would be possible and might be the solution I have a large chunk of aluminium if that will be suitable.

Do you think a space is the solution?
What about sealing it eg gaskets. I have 1 steel gasket for the turbo to flange. But if I put a spacer in, unless its welded which would be a nightmare, I would need to seal the other side of the spacer.

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

fooger03

iTrader: (2)

nevermind