Hi,

TLDR...Can anybody confirm the parts below fit my turbo? I contacted ATPturbo and am hoping for a reply tomorrow but once I can confirm (after it cools down) I'd like to order them ASAP since it's been in winter storage for six months and today is the first day it's fully insured and almost drivable.

I may have created this problem, I recently replaced the 2010 FM exhaust manifold and outlet pipe with their new, higher flowing design. The original owner of my MSM installed the FM2, full Garrett upgrade kit and they or the shop they hired didn't clock the turbo correctly. I knew the outlet hose was rubbing on the A/C compressor and I was able to make adjustments once I got it home (2020?) but while I was installing the new parts and rereading FM's instructions, I verified with angle finders/gauges that it needed to be clocked a bit more counter-clock wise.

I only realized after all the parts were on the engine so I loosened the six bolts between the backplate and housing and had to tap it pretty hard to get it to rotate. I'm hearing more noise than I remember and the turbo doesn't want to spool quickly. With the new parts, I lowered CL EBC duty cycles a bit to avoid hitting boost cut and could barely make 12 psi boost before I realized what the problem might be. My previous target was 18 psi and after changing back to the previous DC settings it still spools slowly. I stayed out of higher boost not wanting to overspin the turbo. The engine is still too hot to work on, once it cools down I will try to remove the housing to confirm. I hope I don't have to remove all the Stage 8 clips and fasteners to pull the manifold, turbo, and outlet pipe as a unit. Disconnecting the oil drain fitting from the block is tricky (two 10mm nuts, very hard to reach the front one) and at my working pace this will take multiple evenings after work maybe close to a week.

Here's what I think I need, just want some confirmation/reassurance before ordering.

O-RING - GT28 BACKPLATE TO COMPRESSOR HOUSING
and maybe
O-ring (seal) between CHRA and backplate, all GT25

THANK YOU!

 

Never mind, I think I found the problem...



The hose must have shifted as I tightened the clamp. Back in 2020 I shortened the turbo to IC hose to pull it away from rubbing on the A/C mounting bolts. If only I had realized then that the compressor housing wasn't clocked correctly! This is one reason many people steer away from buying other people's project cars. Even small mistakes make a difference over time. At least this is an easy fix and I can avoid having to replace turbo compressor seals!

 

Just as quick follow up to say those parts listed above were confirmed to be the correct seals for the GT2560R turbo. I didn't need them, the picture above shows the turbo to IC hose either moved as I tightened the clamp or it wasn't tightened enough and popped off the first time I dipped into higher boost.

P.S. the new FM manifold does indeed flow better, boost was only hitting 16 psi with the same CL EBC settings. A little more duty cycle and tweaked settings got me a fairly stable 18 psi from 3250 RPM to 7500 RPM with the basic mode PID settings. Nice, very nice. $900 for new parts, old parts sold for $400 plus shipping, I wouldn't hesitate to spend the time and labor as I doubt I'll be upgrading the turbo and 2.5" exhaust anytime soon. With 3.63 diff gears it's starting to scramble for traction in 2nd and I have only added 1.5 degrees timing advance from the uber safe base map (8.6 or 8.7:1 forged build)