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Old 03-08-2007, 11:26 PM   #1
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Default turbo clocking...

from what i understand clocking a turbo means changing the relative direction of the exhaust inlet and the intake bound outlet. is this accurate and/ or do-able? diy on doing it to a garrett t3?
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Old 03-08-2007, 11:42 PM   #2
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Clocking can refer to changing the position of either the TURBINE or COMPRESSOR housing in relation to the CHRA. The CHRA must be placed within about 10* of vertical to allow for proper oil drainage.

You'll need to clock your TURBINE housing only if a new or different manifold means the CHRA will not be vertical. You'll need to clock your COMPRESSOR housing based on how you want to route your intercooler pipes.

There are several ways to attach the housings to the CHRA. Most TURBINE housings are attached using 4 bolts and 2 large C-shaped clamps. Most COMPRESSOR housings are attached using only one large snapring. Post a picture of your T3 and I'll tell you exactly how to clock it.
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Old 03-09-2007, 12:21 AM   #3
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i assume the oil drain whole is/ should be facing as close to directly down? what needs to be changed on the turbo when clocked (gaskets)?
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Old 03-09-2007, 12:28 AM   #4
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Nothing needs to be changed when clocking and the drain hole needs to be facing within 10* of straight down as Sam stated.
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Old 03-09-2007, 12:31 AM   #5
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There are no "gaskets" on a turbo. There are several seals however. Check out posts #8 and #9 on this thread to see what a disassembled turbo looks like. https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/showthread.php?t=5403

In short, there's nothing to change. Depending on the age of your turbo, it will probably be a royal bitch to at least a couple of the TURBINE bolts out. I soak mine in Liqiud Wrench for 24 hours. Then I put the whole thing in the freezer overnight. Then I hit the housing with a torch while tryin to keep the bolts as cold as possible... then they ususally come out without a struggle. DO NOT GET CARELESS AND ROUND OFF THE TURBINE BOLTS!!! Take your time and use the right tools. You'll need a large snap-ring pliers to get the compressor housing off. Don't buy one of the cheap Sears model with the replacable tips. Get yourself a big meaty one from Harbor Frieght or Northern Tool.

A full rebuild kit that replaces all of the guts and hardware, everything except the housings, CHRA, and wheels is $75, which basically gets you a brand new turbo. Properly maintained, there's no reason a turbo shouldn't last at least 50k miles in an aftermarket application.
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Old 03-09-2007, 04:25 AM   #6
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i wont have to have the turbo balanced for just clocking it will i?

Last edited by zebro racing; 03-09-2007 at 05:31 AM.
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Old 03-09-2007, 09:41 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zebro racing View Post
i wont have to have the turbo balanced for just clocking it will i?

no, read my projects link. you can see what my t3 looks like complete unassembled and how you can easily rotate each section; compressor, chra, turbine.

you want the oil inlet and return as close to vertical as possible.
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Old 03-10-2007, 05:13 AM   #8
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you want the oil inlet and return as close to vertical as possible.
not trying to be retarded, but when you say this i assume you mean that the oil outlet should be as close to perpendicular with the ground as possible. yes/no? or do you mean that the oil in and out should be as parallel to the ground as possible?

im a bit slow; i go to state
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Old 03-10-2007, 10:29 AM   #9
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i went to a state school........

yeah, drain should point straight down. oil inlet should point straight up.
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Old 03-10-2007, 11:11 AM   #10
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not parallel, straight up and down. the oil return has no oil pressure, it needs gravity to drain. if the oil inlet is say parell to the ground, the oil will not drain out of the the turbo fast enough and you'll have a lovely fast car that shoots blue smoke from the turbo and exhaust.
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Old 03-10-2007, 11:57 AM   #11
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not parallel
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Old 03-10-2007, 04:57 PM   #12
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got it. thank a bunch.
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