Well aware. You actually set the settle time, hold time, and rate of RPM rise in RPM/sec. I think the problem is that the rate of acceleration is constant, which is not how a turbo motor accelerates.

That aside, Heikki's car was loaded the exact same way with both turbos. You create a folder for each car in the Dynapack software. When you put the same car back on the dyno, you just open the old folder and load the old settings, otherwise skipping the initial setup.

Thats right. Its been a while. But as it stands, you can use those things to load the car up somewhat like the road would with a bit of math.

I thought your comparison was of a 2560R and an EFR6758?

Nobody's accusing you of impropriety. We're just curious why your customer made 90 less horsepower with the same turbo on a similar motor at the same boost level as other people have.

Off the top of my head, swimming108 and 99mx5 both toasted stock motors with 6258's. These guys are the reason I decided to build a motor before I install my EFR. Soviet has some pretty solid data as well, not sure he's blown anything up ...yet. (other than turbos :giggle:)

That I cannot say.

Believe it or not, we have complete faith in you. What Andrew said above is exactly what we are trying to figure out. Something is missing, we are all just gobsmacked as to what happened.

Error on my part -- my notes show that Heikki's turbo is a 6758. I can't explain the difference between Heikki's and Soviet's results. I can only present the data that I do have, and that's the GT2560r vs EFR6758 on the same motor, same dyno. I was expecting the EFR to wax the GT.

Are you sure he had a GT2560? The spool up from the 2560 looks like a 2560 but after that it looks like a 2860 or a 3071. I'm not just hung up on the poor efr showing, its also the exceptional (record setting?) 2560 showing on a dyno that's infamous for reading stupid low.

I'm struggling a little with the 2560R numbers too. 335whp from a 2560R through a VICS intake and log exhaust manifolds is hard to stomach. I've seen 335whp from a 2560R before, but it was on a dyno that reads 8% high, and it came from an FM Stroker breathing through a BEGi S4 manifold.

^this. That's way, way out of the park on a 2560. And it's not like it's a new turbo that nobody has tested before.

We do trust you. Something just seems wonky and we want to find the reason why your results are sooooo far different than the hypothesis.

Didn't Jeremy from FM do a comparison on a test rig and the efr didn't toast the 2560 (with a 6258 not a 6758). Granted he did use the same tune for them. He used lower boost but the efr didn't crush the 2560 or anything.

I want a magical turbo but I'm still kind of skeptical. But it doesn't matter for me since I have safety parts to update before i worry about it. I also think that one day TSE will release dynos with their finished products and those should be reputable and nice. ALso they have older data with 2871 and others to compare to.

We ran Heikki's car on 2 separate occasions with the 2560r. The first time Heikki was on the dyno, he made 230 at only 8 psi. He then came back and made 330 at ~19 psi. The third time he came back with the EFR.

It's the number the dyno gave 3 or 4 times, consistently. His 2560r made more power than I've ever seen from a 2560r, by 30 hp (10%). He's also got the only completely built engine that I've ever tested with that turbo; everyone else with a built engine has a bigger turbo. Keep in mind he has a p&p head, SUBs, external gate, and a good exhaust.

I could only get 278 out of my BEGi S4 with 2560r and otherwise stock motor. We see ~250 out of BEGi S3s and FMIIs.

This dyno hits 200kpa @ 3700 rpm.
I hit 200kpa @ 3000 rpm.

700 rpm is a pretty significant difference.

I did an overlay with my 400whp on pump gas 27psi dyno.
This was on VICS IM, stock throttle body, stock 99 head, 9:1 compression 84mm pistons.

http://gaiazov.com/photo/mt.net/EFR6...-GT2560R.png??

Is it just me or are those close enough that it might just have been that heikki wasn't running a fae fae aggressive timing map up top with the 6758? That's one thing that isn't taken into account, I assume the EFR can run more timing up top because it's greater efficiency?

Either way, >300whp in a Lotus 7 is fucking nuts.

He would have to be pulling timing like crazy to maintain 20psi to redline yet drop off that hard past 5

Maybe you have to with a 2560 because it starts blowing hot air up there, whereas the 6758 is still going strong? I realize I've got no practical experience, I'm just throwing shit out there.

I am pretty sure the guys at DIY who tuned heikki's car know how to tune it properly. You have to also remember that Heikki is also running the locost7 in hill climbs and out on track, it takes a hell of a lot more abuse then Fae's car has ever seen.

On Soviet's 400hp dyno he is also running 27psi. Ben has said they only went up to about 20psi. That difference could easily be the extra power and torque holding flat.

Right, I'm not trying to say the DIY guys didn't tune it well, just that they tuned it properly conservative (because real race car) for the 2560 and ran the same timing map for the 6758, which didn't need to be as conservative.


Anyway A++ thread drift, I don't even remember what the thread was originally about.

Or just running same timing from 4000 till redline.
Even then, VVT retard at high rpm should help the top end dramatically.

See hhammerly's dyno from yesterday for more data.


What I can't wrap my head around is going from record breaking 2560 to really low 6758 numbers.

Link? I just checked his build thread and did not see it in there, I also checked the dyno section and did not notice it.

People keep saying it is low 6758 numbers, but does anyone actually have a plot of 20psi with a 6758 on a miata? I think I have only seen lower boost dyno's or allofit dyno's of the 6758 on a miata.