Toddcod

iTrader: (8)

I know on old motors, some of them didn't have exaust gaskets. Straight metal to metal. That is the way my 2560 to manifold is. Or did the idiot just leave it out. I am going to the parts store now to get a turbo blanket and gasket. Do I need the gasket? I always heard if they seal metal to metal it is better. Once you use a gasket you always have too.

I'm trying to get it together TONIGHT. I have been on it all day. Rusty bolts on manifolds are fun.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

as long as both surfaces are flat, then no gasket. Take it up to LRE on Irving blvd and have them surface them.

I'm pretty sure they can surface them. If not, go to brink racecraft.

Toddcod

iTrader: (8)

It looks perfect with no signs of leaks. But it is a PAIN to take off. I would like to bolt the turbo on tonight, and tackle the IC tommorrow.

And as much trouble as I had getting it off. I wanna make sure it will seal. The guy at Alamo autosports said they all should have one. Other places I called said mabe not.

Anyways I bought a gasket, and a Turbo Blanket...... OHHHH YEAAAA! BaBy!

I can't wait to go Zoooom...Zoom.ZOOM..........

Hey where is LRE??? I guess I'll google it.

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

I've no gasket on the manifold-to-turbo interface of my TD04H based Greddy system. Two years, no leaks.

oilstain

What exactly would be the advantage to not having a gasket if you can get away without it?

hustler

iTrader: (6)

the gasket in questions was a bitch in my previous experience. Some here have no issues.

wes65

iTrader: (7)

I have heard of pieces of gasket breaking off and ******* up the turbo.

Toddcod

iTrader: (8)

Weeeell Thennnnn.... We will bolt it up direct.
I have the turbo on the car. The oil feed hooked up.

Just as a note. The center bottom bolt to the manifold SUCKS!! I had to grind down a cheap wrench to losen it. I figured when I bolted it on the other motor it would mabe spin up. Wronge, it was a pain. Swapping the turbo cost me 2hrs because of clearance issues. Same with the bottom right bolt on the DP.

But overall it isn't a bad setup. If someone else gets an older FM kit. Be prepaired to buy a set of cheap wrenches that you don't mind grinding & sawing into shape and short lengths........ Harbor Freight was my friend today. I wasn't about to hack my craftmans.

But it will be worth it. I think I'm going to run low boost, like 4psi till Friday. I'm going to have to fabricate somethings to get the intercooler and Bov in. If everything goes smooth. I may have it all in tommorrow.

What all had to be taken off to get the oil pan drilled?
Can I just raise the motor up off the motor mounts, and switch my pans. Or is there not enough room?

Duckie_uk

iTrader: (1)

To get the sump off the haynes manual says you have to drop the front subframe. I can scan the page for you if you want when I get home.

You guys running without gaskets do you use any sealing compound or assembley paste on there? Or are the surfaces soooo l337 that they just dont leak?

wes65

iTrader: (7)

As long as the surfaces are flat, they dont leak. I am just running metal to metal and no leakage. You can always take the pieces to a machine shop and have them smooth out the flanges.

weir

iTrader: (1)

i've used a think coat of high temp silicone with success as a substitute for a gasket.

wes65

iTrader: (7)

I would say that it would work for farther down the exhaust but not right before the turbo. Youre probably going to burn it up. A buddy of mine used that stuff between the DP and "cat" on his rx7 and he kept burning it up. Now, granted, those spinning triangle thingys have higher egt's but it was at the end of the dp.

BenR

iTrader: (2)

This thread seems familiar.

Toddcod

iTrader: (8)

No progress today so far. The carpet guy was in the neighborhood, and he was available instantly. So he fixed my carpet for $50. Now I have to go downtown to set up a DBA.

So buy 3:00 I plain to attack the down pipe and be done by 8:00.

chucker

iTrader: (4)

I just guessing here -
This is a hot joint. Very hot. So that means in order for a gasket to provide a decent service life in this spot, it would likely need to be made of steel? Steel gaskets aren't cheap. One less thing to buy = advantage the 1st. No gasket means one less thing to possibly fail = advantage the 2nd. And if your mating surfaces are "flat", then a gasket is superfluous anyway. If they're not flat, then they're probably warped, which would necessitate resurfacing of some sort, which would then re-allow a non-gasketed joint. I think? I look at like this: you don't need a faggy red dash when a black one will do just fine, right? Save time, save money, works better - win win win.

Toddcod

iTrader: (8)

But eveyone loves the Red Man Dash. And you can accent it with those sticky vent holes from Autozone.
But remember, nothing says you love your car more than adding one of their tiger decals to the hood.

Duckie_uk

iTrader: (1)

I tried using solid copper gaskets once but they only work if the faces are perfectly flat so I thought why bother with the gasket then? I ran my mopar 440 with no gaskets between the head and manifold for several years.

oilstain

I guess everything can fail, I just never though a gasket would.

So if you buy some parts, and you happen to wind up with a gasket, would you use it or not?

Duckie_uk

iTrader: (1)

If the joint starts blowing then the hot gases can erode the metal and also cause the joint to warp. You can use the gasket by all means but just keep an eye on it and be prepared to pull the turbo if it starts blowing. Do not under any circumstances think "Oh I'll get round to it next week and just nip it up tighter"