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Old 09-07-2015, 03:37 PM   #1
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Does anyone make a thick copper exhaust manifold gasket? Like the Mr. Gaskets they make for SR20DET cars? I have a reoccurring exhaust leak between the 3rd and 4th runner on my turbo manifold. I am going to put the manifold on a belt sander to make sure its level at the flange was hopping that a thicker gasket could help fill any other gaps in. Plus the copper is malleable to help form to any problems.
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Old 09-07-2015, 05:19 PM   #2
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Don't finish a manifold with a belt sander.
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Old 09-07-2015, 05:21 PM   #3
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it's either straight or it's not.
don't be janky
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Old 09-07-2015, 06:39 PM   #4
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Dude, this is a job for a machinist. You're looking to spend hundreds of bucks on bandaids to avoid sending in your manifold for 100 dollars worth of work to make it straight.

In your defense, I tried the janky ways first and they sort of work, but really it's better to just mate two straight surfaces to each other in the first place.
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Old 09-08-2015, 12:24 PM   #5
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Dude, this is a job for a machinist. You're looking to spend hundreds of bucks on bandaids to avoid sending in your manifold for 100 dollars worth of work to make it straight.

In your defense, I tried the janky ways first and they sort of work, but really it's better to just mate two straight surfaces to each other in the first place.
I was being sarcastic with the belt sander. I'm going to pull the turbo manifold and put it on a level surface and use my feeler gauges to see if it's flat and correct it as needed but I still want the copper gasket it helps with heat and helps with sealing the two surfaces
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Old 09-08-2015, 12:29 PM   #6
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how does it "help" with heat and sealing?

how about you do like all the other successful people here do: use the stock gasket (new or reused), and install a manifold with a true surface.
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Old 09-08-2015, 12:30 PM   #7
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Adding a 3rd metal into the mix is not the answer.
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Old 09-08-2015, 12:38 PM   #8
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I don't think I can recall hearing of anyone making or using a solid copper exhaust gasket on a Miata (the OEM gaskets work pretty darn well).

If you really want to do this, you're probably going to have to make your own. You can purchase copper sheet from OnlineMetals here: Order Copper 110 Plate in Small Quantities at OnlineMetals.com

For what it's worth, I can't imagine this not being worse than an OEM stainless steel gasket. Even the folks here making hilarious amounts of power for extended durations on the track are using 'em.

Are your exhaust manifold studs coming loose?
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Old 09-08-2015, 04:17 PM   #9
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I'm going to pull the turbo manifold and put it on a level surface and use my feeler gauges to see if it's flat
What's your plan for determining that your level surface is level?
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Old 09-08-2015, 04:28 PM   #10
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he's throught this through, trust him
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Old 09-08-2015, 04:30 PM   #11
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Water levels naturally. Just set the flange slowly on a standing puddle. Whichever part hits the water first should be sanded down.
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Old 09-08-2015, 09:49 PM   #12
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Water levels naturally. Just set the flange slowly on a standing puddle. Whichever part hits the water first should be sanded down.
I laughed until I stopped...
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Old 09-08-2015, 10:18 PM   #13
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I'm still trying to wrap my head around the idea of using a belt-sander to level an exhaust flange.

You might as well use an axe.
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Old 09-08-2015, 10:23 PM   #14
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I'm not sure what you guys are so shocked at, but many fabricators including abe and tim belt sand their manifolds

...heads, on the other hand
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Old 09-08-2015, 10:55 PM   #15
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What makes it alright for the head, but not the manifold?

Do not want. Doesn't mean it can't be done, still do not want.

6x36 something belt sander, that'd do it.





That won't do it.
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Old 09-08-2015, 11:09 PM   #16
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What makes it alright for the head, but not the manifold?
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Old 09-09-2015, 02:04 AM   #17
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Janky You can use a 6x36 floor belt sanderlayed flat, not vertical and it well work fine if you are careful and go at it slowly. I did it to mine as it developed a small crack in a weld and I reinforced the area with some gussets and I didn't think it would warp the flange but it did. It ended up with about 1/16" warp high in the center out to each end. I painted it with some blueing and used a 80 grit belt to surface the warp out and it has been working fine for sometime now.
I agree with the others that the OEM gasket is the best, that a solid copper one would not solve anything and would probably make things worse.
I had some issues with the studs backing out even when using new pinch nuts. The issue is the surface that contacts the manifold flange on the backside of the nuts is smooth so when the stud heats up it backs out. I bought some NORD washers and haven't had any issues since. The back 2 studs seem to be the most prone to doing this. I bought mine at Fastenal and I know FM sells them also. Just google nord lockwashers. Good luck

Last edited by jmann; 09-09-2015 at 01:20 PM.
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Old 09-09-2015, 09:13 AM   #18
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Weld little beads around your ports then sand/machine. How far proud these should be...I don't know. Not much or else you'll warp the flange worse once it's bolted down.



I recommend using the factory metal gasket and not caring about a little soot on your flange as much.
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Old 09-09-2015, 12:44 PM   #19
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When I took off my exhaust manifold this weekend I noticed it was bulging in the middle (tested with a straightedge). I have no idea why this has happened as it is a huge beefy log manifold from JGS and it's been on and off the car since 2002-2003 with no problems. There is a bit of soot around the 1 and 4 exhaust ports.

What could I have done to cause it to warp? I ceramic coated it inside and out a few years ago but I wouldn't think that would cause problems. Will getting it machined flat fix the problem or is this one of those things where the shape changes as it heats up?

The joking around i this thread is making me doubt what I think I know.
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Old 09-12-2015, 03:48 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlwaysBroken View Post
When I took off my exhaust manifold this weekend I noticed it was bulging in the middle (tested with a straightedge). I have no idea why this has happened as it is a huge beefy log manifold from JGS and it's been on and off the car since 2002-2003 with no problems. There is a bit of soot around the 1 and 4 exhaust ports.

What could I have done to cause it to warp? I ceramic coated it inside and out a few years ago but I wouldn't think that would cause problems. Will getting it machined flat fix the problem or is this one of those things where the shape changes as it heats up?

The joking around i this thread is making me doubt what I think I know.
If it's warped as you say, drop it off at a machine shop and ask them to MACHINE it flat. Not belt sand it flat, but put it in a mill and make a light pass to make it flat again. That will solve your problem.
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