Originally Posted by Faeflora
(Post 682400)
Yes. Me. Also no need for an egt gauge unless you are running WI and its still not 100pct necessary helps tons with tuning your timing. |
Originally Posted by y8s
(Post 682471)
I'd run an EGT. Oh I mean I DO run an EGT.
helps tons with tuning your timing. I'm fairly ignorant and I don't know much about tuning timing other than: Keep advancing until ping or if on a dyno until power goes down and you're past MBT. Back off a few degrees for safety. For tuning timing, I'd think that knowing by knowing your spark angle, AFR, and having a knock sensor, EGT would not be any help UNLESS one of your other sensors was not working. |
I just have a oil pressure gauge, boost gauge, and a wideband.
|
Originally Posted by Faeflora
(Post 682515)
Please explain how it helps with tuning timing?
I'm fairly ignorant and I don't know much about tuning timing other than: Keep advancing until ping or if on a dyno until power goes down and you're past MBT. Back off a few degrees for safety. For tuning timing, I'd think that knowing by knowing your spark angle, AFR, and having a knock sensor, EGT would not be any help UNLESS one of your other sensors was not working. see timing is the start of the spark event, right? it takes a finite amount of time to burn an air fuel mixture. normally it happens in the combustion chamber just in time for it to not be going strong when the exhaust valve opens. if you retard timing, you essentially start the burn later in the engine cycle and you push that finite timespan closer to the exhaust valve event. too late and you get hot firey gases in your exhaust manifold. similarly, different air-fuel ratio mixtures burn at different speeds and heat levels. a leaner mixture burns hotter and slower than an ideal mixture. but a too-rich mix can burn slowly too. or it can ignite in the manifold. it's just something I'd want to keep an eye on when I'm pushing the knock limits of even a built motor. |
Originally Posted by y8s
(Post 682536)
lets see.. will a 1.8L miata at 400hp be at MBT at peak torque? maybe. but if not, you'll be backing off timing and want to know where starting the burn so late means fire roasting your valves and exhaust manifold.
see timing is the start of the spark event, right? it takes a finite amount of time to burn an air fuel mixture. normally it happens in the combustion chamber just in time for it to not be going strong when the exhaust valve opens. if you retard timing, you essentially start the burn later in the engine cycle and you push that finite timespan closer to the exhaust valve event. too late and you get hot firey gases in your exhaust manifold. similarly, different air-fuel ratio mixtures burn at different speeds and heat levels. a leaner mixture burns hotter and slower than an ideal mixture. but a too-rich mix can burn slowly too. or it can ignite in the manifold. it's just something I'd want to keep an eye on when I'm pushing the knock limits of even a built motor. Hmm well given a set of tuning best practices like: don't run richer than 10:1 run no leaner than 11.8:1 in full boost run no less than 6 degrees timing in full boost Isn't it fairly unlikely one would burn exhaust valves and start melting pistons? The only situation I can think of other than WI tuning that EGT would be useful is: tuning and AFR timing for cruise or any sustained RPM application such as extended top speed runs where the motor sits in a fuel/timing cell for long periods of time. |
Originally Posted by spd579
(Post 682340)
Engine is a 99 bored .40 over, 1mm larger intake and exhaust valves, MazdaSpeed intake cam, Fidanza adjustable exhaust cam gear, Ferrea valve train kit, 10:1 comp Weisco pistons, Carillo H beam rods, ARP studs, OEM ported and polished intake manifold, 65mm throttle body, full engine balance, Bosch 044 fuel pump, m-tuned fuel rail, Garrett T3/T4E Turbo; .50 trim compressor with 76 trim turbine wheel, .63 A/R, 3 in dp and exhaust, ramhorn tubular mani.
So you dont think 400 whp will be possible? Running E85? |
Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 682436)
His IP suggests he has more money than you.
|
Originally Posted by scottyd
(Post 682556)
Get rid of that turbo from 1945 and you've got a good setup.
Running E85? No e85 btw for now |
Originally Posted by Faeflora
(Post 682515)
Please explain how it helps with tuning timing?
I'm fairly ignorant and I don't know much about tuning timing other than: Keep advancing until ping or if on a dyno until power goes down and you're past MBT. Back off a few degrees for safety. For tuning timing, I'd think that knowing by knowing your spark angle, AFR, and having a knock sensor, EGT would not be any help UNLESS one of your other sensors was not working.
Originally Posted by Faeflora
(Post 682544)
Hmm well given a set of tuning best practices like:
don't run richer than 10:1 run no leaner than 11.8:1 in full boost run no less than 6 degrees timing in full boost Isn't it fairly unlikely one would burn exhaust valves and start melting pistons? The only situation I can think of other than WI tuning that EGT would be useful is: tuning and AFR timing for cruise or any sustained RPM application such as extended top speed runs where the motor sits in a fuel/timing cell for long periods of time. some people prefer to run more boost and less timing to increase power over MBT and less boost. |
Originally Posted by spd579
(Post 682604)
Recomendations?? Anyone?
No e85 btw for now |
Originally Posted by spd579
(Post 682604)
Recomendations?? Anyone?
No e85 btw for now |
Originally Posted by scottyd
(Post 682612)
Something that'll actually spool. Garrett 3071 with the GTX wheel or one of the new BW turbos
|
Originally Posted by Faeflora
(Post 682616)
Who made your ramhorn mani? Slutty Pics?
|
Originally Posted by spd579
(Post 682623)
So what kind of spool could I really expect for double the price??? 500 rpms sooner?
|
Depends on what the car is used for. For the street I would want:
-water temp -water pressure light -oil pressure gauge + light -wideband -boost w/ ECU overboost protection -egt Voltage can be logged through the ECU. For a 400whp track car, add: -oil temp -tranny temp -diff temp |
Originally Posted by Faeflora
(Post 682544)
Hmm well given a set of tuning best practices like:
don't run richer than 10:1 run no leaner than 11.8:1 in full boost run no less than 6 degrees timing in full boost |
dont forget this one... tells you how much time it took to crash your car cause you where looking at all your gauges...
http://www.rjays.com/Gauges/automete...es/atm1485.jpg boost WB EGT fuel pressure oil pressure oil temp water temp AIT and many more... see how many you can cram in the car and then choose the ones that matter the most and fill the spots up... |
Originally Posted by spd579
(Post 682623)
So what kind of spool could I really expect for double the price??? 500 rpms sooner?
Benefits aren't only at the bottom end in spoolup. With twinscroll you can also run a much bigger A/R housing than you could otherwise. And because of that, there is more top end on the turbine as well. |
Originally Posted by Faeflora
(Post 682742)
Benefits aren't only at the bottom end in spoolup.
With twinscroll you can also run a much bigger A/R housing than you could otherwise. And because of that, there is more top end on the turbine as well. |
Yah..
Read this: http://www.modified.com/tech/modp-09...ign/index.html And here is an explanatory pic from the article http://image.modified.com/f/16322612...ll-diagram.jpg |
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