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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 12-14-2014, 11:59 AM   #21
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I second the burping funnel. I used the funnel and raised the front end WAY into the air and I was surprised how much air came out in one big burp.
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Old 12-14-2014, 11:59 AM   #22
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Do you have head studs?

Almost sounds like its lifting the head. Have you tried using one of those "Block Tester" kits?
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Old 12-14-2014, 12:26 PM   #23
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Chi, I has the front end about 18" off the ground.

Boogie, this was happening not boosting at all. None. From a cold start up all the way up to that temp. And I'm only running 9psi as well, if that matters. It never got hot when in boost. Once it got hot and I pulled over and cooled off, I could drive it the rest of the 15 miles, with WOT pulls, and not get over 210*. It was like the tstat was sticking a little bit at first but once it opened and I slowed down, the cooling system caught up and everything was fine after that. Very odd.

I do have a block tester with me at work I wanna try just to see.
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Old 12-14-2014, 07:43 PM   #24
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I think I'm all good now. I left work, warmed up to 198 and dropped down to 187 and stayed around 190 all the way home while driving like an ***. Raced a 240 from a roll and smoked him, and then got my *** handed to me by a SV1000 from a light.


Side note, does anyone know why my charge light comes on when I hit the rev limiter? I've tried adjusting the settings in the alternator options to make it less sensitive, but haven't been able to figure out how to make it stop doin that.

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Old 12-14-2014, 08:10 PM   #25
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Since you say it gets hot quickly and then suddenly drops, you should check that the little bleed nipple in the thermostat housing is open. It tends to clog on older cars and causes this exact symptom. Basically, when Mazda moved the thermostat to the "front," they created a dead zone in the coolant that takes a long time to warmup, which means the t'stat will open really late. That nipple is there to eliminate the dead zone, but needs to be free of crud.

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Old 12-14-2014, 08:33 PM   #26
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i looked in there when i was scraping off the old gasket last night, did not see any obstructions in there.
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Old 12-14-2014, 09:11 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mech5700 View Post
Side note, does anyone know why my charge light comes on when I hit the rev limiter? I've tried adjusting the settings in the alternator options to make it less sensitive, but haven't been able to figure out how to make it stop doin that.
How many miles on the alternator? When the slip rings start to wear out, the first symptom is that it can't maintain current at higher RPMs, so the voltage sags. Mine would hit about 10.5 volts when merging onto the freeway at night -- you could see the headlights get dimmer.

--Ian
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Old 12-14-2014, 09:39 PM   #28
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no idea. it was fine when i had the OE ecu. I don't have any dimming of the lights or anything either.
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Old 12-18-2014, 10:55 PM   #29
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Collect a datalog and check for voltage drop. Then you'll know if it's charging or not at high rpm. Take it from there...
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