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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 12-31-2015, 09:49 AM   #21
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Whoops, I did a thing:



SR20 T25 in need of a rebuild. It's small but I feel that having the T25 flange will give me a lot of upgrade room in the future. I think I am going to shoot for 220whp on E85 which should be do-able without too much boost I would think
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Old 01-01-2016, 09:28 PM   #22
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Whoops, I did a thing:



SR20 T25 in need of a rebuild. It's small but I feel that having the T25 flange will give me a lot of upgrade room in the future. I think I am going to shoot for 220whp on E85 which should be do-able without too much boost I would think
where did you guys find the turbo..... I tried, but just could not find a good used turbo. and a new one costs $1000.
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Old 01-01-2016, 11:10 PM   #23
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^Those T25s are all over the 240sx forums from people putting bigger turbos on their SR20s. Shouldn't be too hard to find one.
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Old 01-01-2016, 11:16 PM   #24
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where did you guys find the turbo..... I tried, but just could not find a good used turbo. and a new one costs $1000.
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^Those T25s are all over the 240sx forums from people putting bigger turbos on their SR20s. Shouldn't be too hard to find one.
Yep I bought mine second-hand off a member here for about ~150. They can be found on the 240 forums for cheap it just takes a lot of patience.
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Old 01-18-2016, 11:10 AM   #25
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Alright anybody got any issue with this purchase? I have the NB Sport front brakes, and 1.8L rear brakes. It will be a casual weekend racer with both autocross and light track duty. Porterfield's front and rear w/ Prop valve and I'll be running ATE Super 200.

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Old 01-18-2016, 12:22 PM   #26
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Dont do it.
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Old 01-18-2016, 12:27 PM   #27
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Dont do it.
Explain
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Old 01-18-2016, 12:32 PM   #28
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I was just being rude. I went with the XP pads. 8 and 10 I think, but those might be not so good for a daily. There are a ton of brake pad comparisons on here.
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Old 01-18-2016, 12:36 PM   #29
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I was just being rude. I went with the XP pads. 8 and 10 I think, but those might be not so good for a daily. There are a ton of brake pad comparisons on here.
Hahaha no worries. Sarcasm doesn't come through very well in text. Yeah it seems like a ton of people are doing the 8 and 10 combo. It's not a daily so I'm not too worried about that, but I also would prefer a pad that isn't too noisy or needs a ton of heat to do anything.
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Old 01-18-2016, 01:04 PM   #30
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While this isn't an apples to apples comparison (since mine are the TSE 11.75 front), I run the XP10/8 combo. When we went for a ride at 45-50 degrees, they still worked great, even when I first left my house. I expected them to be very dull at low temperatures, but they surprisingly work great. With that said, before they were fully bedded in, they were scary at low temps.

If you're going on a road track, I would go overkill on brakes. That's why I narrowed my choice down to XP10/8, and if I would've waited a few weeks until OGRacing posted about the PFC011's, I would've gotten those. That's what my roommate runs, and he loves them. The PFC's do have a lot of dust and noise. My XP10/8's only have a very slight squeek at low speeds, if you're soft on the brakes, but dust isn't too bad.

TLDR: Either put up with noise and dust or have two sets of pads.
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Old 01-18-2016, 09:58 PM   #31
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Porterfields lasted just one track day (total noob) for me. Worn down almost to the metal.
Performance Friction race pads for the track for me now- let's see how long they'll last. But I don't think they have 1.8l rear pads.
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Old 01-18-2016, 10:45 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by Goingnowherefast View Post
Alright anybody got any issue with this purchase? I have the NB Sport front brakes, and 1.8L rear brakes. It will be a casual weekend racer with both autocross and light track duty. Porterfield's front and rear w/ Prop valve and I'll be running ATE Super
Downside to sport brakes is limited pad selection. I asked about it a while back and decided it wasn't worth it for me. Some smart people dropped a lot of knowledge in the thread, you can read here:https://www.miataturbo.net/suspensio...le-99-a-84151/
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Old 01-18-2016, 11:12 PM   #33
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Words and things...
I realized after I posted that you have a 1.6 car which changes the equation a bit compared to my 99. Also noticed that you already purchased them so... YES! Sport brakes are an excellent idea!
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Old 01-19-2016, 09:47 AM   #34
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While this isn't an apples to apples comparison (since mine are the TSE 11.75 front), I run the XP10/8 combo. When we went for a ride at 45-50 degrees, they still worked great, even when I first left my house. I expected them to be very dull at low temperatures, but they surprisingly work great. With that said, before they were fully bedded in, they were scary at low temps.

If you're going on a road track, I would go overkill on brakes. That's why I narrowed my choice down to XP10/8, and if I would've waited a few weeks until OGRacing posted about the PFC011's, I would've gotten those. That's what my roommate runs, and he loves them. The PFC's do have a lot of dust and noise. My XP10/8's only have a very slight squeek at low speeds, if you're soft on the brakes, but dust isn't too bad.

TLDR: Either put up with noise and dust or have two sets of pads.
Fuckkkk but I want it all with no drawbacks hahaha. I forgot they were 10/8's. Yeah as far as I remember they weren't too bad in the cold. I'm gonna grab the valve and the fluid now just because it seems like there's no debate there. The reviews on the PFC pads seem awesome, I'm just not sure how willing I am to commit to a full track setup like that. Yeah the issue with PFC is I don't think they have rears like stefanst said. I'll look around at the 10/8 combo. - Sent from the KFSAE shop (I'm getting pretty solid at the metal lathe). Made all the cup bearings for the control arms and Dan and Max said they looked good so I'm happy.

To the others I got the Sport brake hardware for a hell of a deal. Think it was like $50 plus shipping so I couldn't pass it up. Eventually I'll step up to the 11.75" setup. Ordering the XP10/8's now and I'll see how they work.
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Old 04-18-2016, 08:48 AM   #35
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Okay guys so bit of an update: The winter has been long and hard on my bank account but I have made some small steps. Firstly I set out to fix that damage on the rear quarter panel. I decided since it was a track car I will do it myself (Learning process) using a spot welder. For those who don't know basically you need to strip the paint (see below) and you can weld these little studs onto the body. Once on you use a slide hammer to pull it out. These are the first pictures, I'll do more today. Obviously you apply bondo and repaint when done.



I was told racecars don't need paint #weightreduction


Some of the studs welded on:
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Old 04-18-2016, 08:53 AM   #36
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Also it might be a month or two before I go turbo so I installed a test pipe. It was cheap (obviously) and I assume it'll free up 1-2 hp or so but not enough for the butt dyno to feel.

Shiny:


Old/New:


In:


Conclusions... It's a cheap an easy way to drop a tiny bit of weight, free up a hp or two, and increase sound a tad. For me getting an NA exhaust only to upgrade to a 3 inch won't be worth it so that'll have to do. The butt dyno says it feels a little bit more peppy but nothing quantifiable. I'll be bumping up the timing in the next week as well as a harddog double X rollbar if all goes well. Cheers!
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Old 04-18-2016, 07:15 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by Goingnowherefast View Post
Yep I bought mine second-hand off a member here for about ~150. They can be found on the 240 forums for cheap it just takes a lot of patience.
I know it's been a while since you posted this. But I've heard this advice a lot and I seem to find m24 turbos on these forums all the time. However I have seen people say on multiple occasions these are too small. Is this incorrect? Am I looking in the wrong places?

EDIT: looking closer at OP's photo of his turbo it is an m24. Can someone please clear up my confusion.
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Old 04-19-2016, 06:01 PM   #38
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It might be easier to beat some of that out from the inside, then to use the weld on studs. Probably faster too.
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Old 04-22-2016, 03:21 PM   #39
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Bout half or more is hard to get to beating coz it's in the tunnel.
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Old 07-16-2016, 01:31 PM   #40
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Update:

So I've finally got some forward movement. Here's the gameplan...

MIATAATATATA
Phase 1: Maintenance (Oil, coolant, brake fluid, air filter): Done!
Phase 2: Safety (Roll-bar, Brakes, Lines): Almost done
Phase 3: Track-ready (Tires, suspension, alignment): Not Done
Phase 4: Driver prep (Get more track time and adjust setup as needed): Not done
Phase 5: Getting there (MS3X, Injectors, Get it running): Not done
Phase 6: Throw the damn turbo on (Throw the damn turbo on): Not done


Oh and this is happening:



Also I was able to take the car to work and I found one big thing out... The radio blows dick. I can barely hear it. I ended up just putting my phone with Spotify on in the cup-holder and it was an improvement in volume and quality. SO the radio and speakers came out. Need that space for gauges anyways

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