Is it?

TIA

 

I think there are a couple different versions for both of those turbos. Might be a difference in the inlet to the compressor but should be relatively easy work around with a different diameter inlet pipe to the air filter. Exhaust side fits up the same.

Bob

 

You may also want to check the exhaust flanges. I know there are two five bolt patterns, but i'm not sure what they go to.

 

there is the typical 5 bolt and iirc the skyline bolt pattern.

they should be nearly the same with the difference of the 3" compressor inlet if you get a REAL 2860rs.

having had the 2860RS and a 2871 i would suggest going straight to the 2871. (if your open to suggestions, and if your going new)

 

What's a REAL vs "fake" GT2860rs?

What differences did you see between the '60 and the '71?

 

Call Corky or FM and ask as they use both turbos on their kits. At the most it may require clocking or modifying the intake pipe.

 

real being the 3" inlet RS with a 0.86 hotside... the other one is dubbed a 28rs but with alternate housings and such.

 

i have yet to get the 2871 dyno tuned, but it makes more power everywhere at the same boost level.

cars that i couldnt keep up to before i can now and from visual 4th gear pulls i make peak boost at identical rpm's on the same manifold

(however i did change from t2 flanged to the newer TiAL housing which means i had to hack off the t2 flange to weld the vband flange onto the tubular manifold)

 

What were your '60 and '71 a/r's? And, how much low end (3000`3500 RPM) and spoolup did you lose?

 

0.86 AR hotside with iirc 62 trim 28rs wheels and 56 trim 71r wheels?

low end i dont think that i really lost any power... if i have it might have been 200-300rpm.

i know that i needed to retune my cells in boost at 3200-3700 the most which means that the turbo flows more in those cells and then there was ~4% more flow at the same map pressures for the remainder of the power cells. aka 3700-7100

 

So there's the rub - I'm looking at the 0.64 a/r GT2860RS as it is primarily a street car. Should be way spoolier than the 0.86 a/r, or any of the 2871's.

 

go with that then.
if you have a nice manifold, some time and the funds, the TIAL hotside is (IMO) the reason my spool remained similar between the 2860 and the 2871 as thats literally the only difference between the setups.

the 2860 should flow enough even in the top end with a 0.64 that you shouldnt be noticing a power drop in the higher RPM since you have the AEM EMS and the nice boost control that it offers.

-Matt

 

what do you think a 2860rs with a .64 housing is good for on a 1.6? Say at 15-16PSI?

 

would probably be ok.

bigger is better.

 

My block is built. Plus headwork and cams in the near future. Goal is 300whp. It's either a 2860rs or a Rotrex. I am teetering back and forth between the two.

 

if you have a built engine get the 2871.

2860 0.64 will probably make 280whp but will die in higher rpms