KyriakosGr

seriously? Never thought about that... last time i used an safc was in a Nissan Almera of a friend... and then the nissan skyline my brother bought... it came with the car... tweaked abit got sick of it and swapped to a power fc... well we will see how it goes if i cant do **** with the safc ill figure something else out...

Got some more work done today... welded a downpipe... Installed the 305 injectors... and worked some more on my rear feders.. its a national holyday today so no shops open... as i need a few bits like fittings and clamps and stuff it slowed me down a bit today :( BUT i hope to have everything together tomorrow up and running and maybe tuned... as the only thing missing now is the intercooler and the oil drain pipe / Tuning... Im having a lot of fun with this build ... Ill see if i can get the safc to work if not ... ill figure something else out...
pics willl follow tomorow

T0mmy

iTrader: (1)

I hope you're not counting beer in that $100 budget or you're fucked

Jesse99James

Sure, they don't work extremely well but they CAN work. If you can figure out which setting to use in the setup menu, the S-AFC WILL work using a vane air flow meter. It may NOT work with a hot wire MAF if you car is so equipped.

The real problem with the VAF flapper door meter is that it reads near then end of the voltage range at WOT. It was 15+ years ago so my memory is fuzzy but when running larger injectors, the S-AFC can lean out the mixture at idle. Unfortunately, there is NO room for adding fuel once the throttle is at 100% and the VAF door fully opens. When the VAF door opens, voltage is close to either 0 or 5 volts leaving very little room for the S-AFC to further lower or raise voltage to fool the ECU into injecting more fuel. Installing a MAP sensor in place of the throttle input removes the throttle at 100% problem and allows fuel settings to continue to change with pressure differential.

Finally...I dredged up an old post where I was debating the ECU control strategies that Mazda used. I owned the factory Mazda manuals from which I pulled the information you'll read in the discussion.

My posts start at message #15, username "95EGTturbo"
Piggybacks - Mazda3Club.com

I hope this helps. I'll see if I can't dredge up the settings I used in the S-AFC setup menu.

Jess

Jesse99James

I cannot find anywhere that I wrote about the S-AFC settings for the airflow meter. That looks like it might be your most difficult issue. Plus, I was using the 1st generation. I don't know what changed with the second generation.

Anyway, here is more information that may help you tune your S-AFC:

Apexi S-AFC and 460cc injectors - MX-5 Miata Forum

S-AFC - MX-5 Miata Forum

AFC's - MX-5 Miata Forum

Why isn't anyone using the Apexi S-AFC? - MX-5 Miata Forum

Having an idea about fueling a turbo car. - MX-5 Miata Forum

Rx7 afm to Miata adjustments - MX-5 Miata Forum

Feedback for my custom AFC project - Page 5

Jesse99James

Would this blow your budget? This would certainly help if you end up using the S-AFC!

https://www.miataturbo.net/miata-par...d-conus-81259/

KyriakosGr

Wow... Jesse99James thank you so much for all that info!
Ill browse through all those sites tonight to take all the info i need and ill set the SAFC up tomorrow...

I had the car start today with and checked for leaks... non found so thats good ... car starts and runs as usual... so all good... Checked the piping, installed the oil return... so hardware is good to go now ...

Tomorrow ill install and setup the SAFC and a spare turbo timer i have And maybe a bee*r rev limiter... aaand my Defi Boost Gauge... and take the AEM wideband + gauge out of the rx for tuning...

I still have not spent 1 dollar so i guess its still in the budget and it seems like a good investment Ill check into it!

Detail Pics will follow when im done and have actualy time to take some proper pics until then... one more snapshot ...

KyriakosGr

Okay everybody ...

Sooo bet is over! I Won

Car drives and boosts fine... The Apexi SAFC 2 combined with a map sensor works quite ok! Car is running on 10 psi temps and AFRs are totally fine... Its actually quite fun to drive and im pleased with the outcome considering the budget






Soooo bet is won and its time for a conclusion...

Sofar i spent about 20 usd. .... for fittings and cableties and stuff like that... BUT
Lets have a look from another view...
I know quite a few people might see this thread and think "wow its easy and cheap as hell to boost a miata"...
So ive made a partslist with aftermarket prices of the basic parts i threw in that car that i had over in my garage...

Apexi SAFC2 150-200 USD
DEFI Gauge 150 USD
MR2 Injectors 50 USD
Turbocharger (100-??? USD)
Manifold (homemade costs for Argon / cutting and grinding disks / flange 20-30 USD)
Downpipe (Flange / piping / cutting and grinding disks / Flange 30-40 USD)
Intercooler (50-??? USD)
Intercooler Piping (70-??? USD)
Oil Feed with fittings and braided hose (30-50 USD)
Oil Returnline with fittings and braided hose / drill bit for the Oil pan ( 30-50 USD)
BOV dualpiston (80 - ??? USD)

well and the list goes on ... so the cheapest way to do a turbo conversion that wont blow on startup would be about 800 USD and the car would NOT run quite as good as on a proper build... As i said im pleased with the outcome and its driveable and quite fun to drive but far away from a good build...

I would still need an O2 Clamp! And an ignition controller ... so thats another 300-400 USD

So in total you would have to spent about 1200 USD for a kit made out of used parts for it to be still OK running!!!

Sooo i think this is a piece of good advice to listen to all the folks on this club bashing on everyone who tries to go the bandaid route as it is not even partially worth it!!!

As i said before im pretty pleased with the outcome... even so pleased that now that ive won the bet... ill blow my budget to make it a proper turbo car! So now instead of spending another 300 usd on ignition controllers and O2 Clamps ill just sell the SAFC and go with an MS box... summed up it would end up costing the same but run a lot better and leaving a lot more room for tuning and optimization.... There is literaly NO POINT in going the bandaid route in the end!

Well its late here and ive got to get up early in the morning so thats that... just wanted to let you guys know that i did not abondon the thread and Thanks again to everyone who fed me with info ...

BoostedSmurf

iTrader: (1)

Props for following through. That went better than expected.

Now post videos of it hooning!

curly

iTrader: (25)

Yup, and that $450-$600 is why we suggest MS before any bandaids. Totally doable!

Props though, now put in a megasquirt

jkspeed

I would like to hear her spool as well. Congrats!

Jesse99James

Great to hear that you were able to get it working and using the MAP sensor provided decent A/F ratios. That must have been the key to why my Escort GT engine held up over year of abuse. Not having a wide band O2 sensor always left me wondering if/when it would blow but for $1500 total it was well worth it for the extra 75+ HP.

Exactly as expected, 15-20 years ago separate ignition/fuel controllers were a bargain compared to aftermarket ECUs of the time. With the PNP Megasquirt and ease of tuning, there is no reason to use them other than to prove a point and win a bet.

mjcerisano

thats gonna be hard to do with less then $100. If ya got the stuff laying around, then go for it!

gr4v3r

Yeah there is no way this will ever work or run, no way at all. Shoot ill eat my foot if it ever runs. I'll be surprised if he even ever updates this thread again! /s

T0mmy

iTrader: (1)

Matt here wants to sell something it would seem