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Old 04-26-2007, 01:53 PM   #1
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Talking How am I doing so far. Suggestions to complete?

Looking at Braineacks list here's what I've got so far.

ignition control: Bipes
FMU/ afpr: begi
injectors: Supra 305's
Fuel pump: Walbro 190
O2 clamp: Olderguy
boost control: internal wastegate Saab t3
Bypass valve: out of Mits. Evo
Manifold: old style BEGI/ FM cast

I've been picking up what I can used or 2nd hand. So far I'm into this $880.

Still need...

Intercooling, oil/ water lines, wideband, clutch. Price wise it appears the real killer is the clutch. Spendiest single item on the list and toughest for me to DIY install. Anyone happy with any of the cheaper (read not ACT) units?

What am I missing? I know there's going to be lot's of little fittings, clamps, DIY shielding. I'm figuring on having a local shop do a custom mild steel DP and exhaust.

Do I need some kind of suplimental boost control? Apreciate all the help so far. If anyone has parts I can use, let me know.
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Old 04-26-2007, 02:12 PM   #2
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If you plan to boost past whatever the stock wastegate actuator is set at, a cheap eBay MBC might be the ticket. This is what I run, and it's FREAKING AWESOME!!! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Voodo...05944174QQrdZ1

An oil feed line is easy. The size is listed in Brain's FAQ for the size of the fitting into the block. -4an is universally recommended. I've got a line for sale here: https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/sh...&highlight=t25 It doesn't have the fitting for the block, and the brass fitting for the turbo is for a T25, and is 7/16"-24IF to -4an. There's a 90* -4an to -4an fitting if you want it, and another 90* if you want to cut off one of the fittings currently on the line and use that.

There is another IC thread going on right now, check it out for ideas and parts suggestions.

The Begi separated gas mild steel DP is only $300 shipped from Begi... for that price, having a local shop fab one up just doesn't make sense. Having them fab up the rest of the exhaust is a great ideal.

Do you have PS or AC?
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Old 04-26-2007, 02:45 PM   #3
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for oil lines: https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/sh...atp+restrictor (budget $90-110)

No seperated Wastegate for the T3...depending on the turbine outlet, BEGi should at least have had my DP jigged so you can still get a nice piece from them.

wideband: go LC-1 with a cheapo narrowband gauge (run you $250)

and like same said, just get a cheap-o MBC, I made mine....even at the standard wastegate pressure, you'll see better spool/power due to it.

clutch: stock for under 5-6psi, ACT HD for under 12psi, ACT XT for over 12psi....street disc...
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Old 04-26-2007, 02:55 PM   #4
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cueball1: Sounds like you're on the right track. You probably have a boost gauge, what about a wideband? Also, you'll need a fuel pressure gauge for adjusting the AFPR. Borrow one. The price sounds right also, hanging around and getting great deals is sweet if you have the patience. Nice.

Quote:
Originally Posted by samnavy View Post
If you plan to boost past whatever the stock wastegate actuator is set at, a cheap eBay MBC might be the ticket. This is what I run, and it's FREAKING AWESOME!!! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Voodo...05944174QQrdZ1
Did you opt for the "ceramic ball" option?

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Originally Posted by samnavy View Post
The Begi separated gas mild steel DP is only $300 shipped from Begi... for that price, having a local shop fab one up just doesn't make sense.
Good point. +1
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Old 04-26-2007, 04:06 PM   #5
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I do have AC and PS on my 94. Cruise even, though I'll likely have to delete that. It's a daily driver and I appreciate some comforts.

The saab t3 isn't ideal. The wastegate is part of the cast outlet. Can't run a divorced DP with it. Simply has a round exhaust port. It's a pretty simple outlet. That's why if figured a local exhaust shop could handle it. If I'm wrong I know Corky and Steph will take care of me.

I'm curious how the MBC works. Where does it go in the system and how do they work with an internal WG?

I'm trying to keep the PS/ AC and I'm really liking the idea of dropping the radiator slightly and going over the top with the IC piping. Keeps the runs short and looks like the simplest route to me.

Looking for a cheap/ used boost gauge and wideband. Will DIY fab an intake. Will DIY sheilding. I'm kind of waiting for Bandit to start producing again on the oil/ water lines and fuel rail. If there are cheaper alternatives I'm certainly interested.

I'm OK at wrenching but I don't have equipment to do too much fabbing. Anything I can get that's pretty simple bolt in is a big plus.

I've got Corksport and Horsepower Freaks here local. I was figuring some time there after the install to get the tune right on the fmu, etc. and to double check my work.

What parts can I start installing now and still have the car driveable? FMU? Fuel pump is in already (damn that is easy) Injectors? Bipes?
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Old 04-26-2007, 04:12 PM   #6
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Sam, great ebay MBC thread. How exactly does and MBC work with an internal WG turbo?

I know, I'm not the brightest when it comes to boost. I should be able to figure that out myself. If I think about it it must go in the pressure line to the WG actuator. It then works as a restrictor so the actuator thinks there is less boost than is actually there?
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Old 04-26-2007, 04:15 PM   #7
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You install the MBC inline with the signal line for the WG coming from the compressor outlet. There is a ball and spring in there. You increase tension on the spring which lowers the signal pressure keeping the wastegate closed longer untill you reach the amount of boost you have adjusted it for.

Pictures help when trying to understand.
https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/sh...41&postcount=1
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Old 04-26-2007, 04:26 PM   #8
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When I thought about it a second, that's what I figured out. I'm old so I'm a little slow.
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Old 04-26-2007, 04:37 PM   #9
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i forgot to add in my instructions not to get things NPT...since they are tapered....but that's the same damn thing as the voodoo MBCs....will it save you time and money....not really, buy the voodoo
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Old 04-26-2007, 04:38 PM   #10
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Voodoo MBC ordered with ceramic ball option. Check another one off the list. Now to find a one side intecooler for a reasonable price.

Last edited by cueball1; 04-26-2007 at 04:40 PM. Reason: screw up/ incomplete thought. Hey Philip!
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Old 04-26-2007, 04:40 PM   #11
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What do you consider reasonable?
This is kind of over priced, gives you an idea though.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Front...mZ190102094837
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Old 04-26-2007, 04:43 PM   #12
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what do you consider a one-side?

this: http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant...ry_Code=IC30CO

with two 90 couplers would probably be cheaper in the long run....since you have to buy couplers anyways, and since you can get couplers with longer legs and adjust the outlets whereever they need to go.

Last edited by Braineack; 10-02-2007 at 04:01 PM.
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Old 04-26-2007, 05:10 PM   #13
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cjernigan, that's one I've been looking at. Sucks that it's the same size core as the one Braineack shows and it's $50 more. I keep waiting for it to come down in price.

Brain, I was just out front looking at the space to see if I could make that one you suggested work. At 18" wide and adding another bit of width for the elbows to run it up and over I think the simplicity of Cjernigans one-side might be worth the extra money.

Keeping the PS/ AC, what do you guys think is the easiest routing for the IC and piping? Am I goofy for thinking over the top is easiest? It looks like there is plenty of stuff to move/ eliminate in front of the radiator to do it. I'd love to just run that little 18x12 unit with the outlet on the sides if it weren't any more headache to put together.
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Old 04-26-2007, 05:13 PM   #14
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it's not a headache....this can't spell it out any better: http://www.mx5projects.com/

whaveter intercooler you uses, you pretty much just need (4) 90° to go around the radiator, then (2) more to go back up. (1) more to go into the TB, and then however else to attach it to the compressor.

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Old 04-26-2007, 05:58 PM   #15
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Now I know with supers they want as short a run as possible to prevent lag in boost. Is a longer routing like this not a problem with turbo's? By going over the top I'd basically have 2 90's and straight pipes with real short runs. I'm no turbo expert so maybe the extra volume with the longer routing isn't a big deal + you get some modest additional cooling. Is that the general consensus?
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Old 04-26-2007, 06:51 PM   #16
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we dont blow through TBs
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Old 04-26-2007, 09:26 PM   #17
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Cueball sounds like you have a similar turbo to mine I am trying to figure out the downpipe let me know what you come up with please.
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Old 04-27-2007, 01:40 AM   #18
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I think Braineack has a similar set up. Brain, you referenced...

Quote:
No seperated Wastegate for the T3...depending on the turbine outlet, BEGi should at least have had my DP jigged so you can still get a nice piece from them.
I'm going to check with Bell tomorrow and see what they created for Braineack. I know that if I send them my mani and turbo they can build be a DP, steph already told me that. I'll let you know what they say tomorrow.

Braineack. What mani are you running?
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Old 04-27-2007, 09:40 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cueball1 View Post
Braineack. What mani are you running?
BEGis manifold, and the DP they made for me....I sent them my turbo and they put it on Corky's car to build a DP off....I believe they jigged it since I had a fairly standard outlet....but since the T3 has 3-4 turbine outlets you gotta make sure you have the same.

But yeah, they should be able to whip you one up.

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Old 04-27-2007, 01:27 PM   #20
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Awsome. That's a good looking part. I'm emailing Steph to see if that'll work.

I've got a dirt cheap BEGI/ FM small intercooler coming from the earlier FM kits. It's the little stage 1 10x10 core they used to have. I know that little 12x18 that's popular with it's 12x12 core handles most of the builds OK. This is 30% smaller. What kind of hp should this be safe with?
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