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Old 04-04-2007, 08:38 PM   #1
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Default How do you clock a sr20 T25 turbo?

ive just discovered that my turbo wont fit perfectly on the manifold that i have. i have an iron cast greddy turbo manifold replica with a t25 flange.

could someone please enlighten me with some uber turbo knowledge
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Old 04-04-2007, 08:40 PM   #2
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Loosen the bolts holding the CHRA to the turbine housing, rotate CHRA untill the oil drain/feed is within 10* of vertical. Then compress or remove the c-clamp using a set of appropriate pliers and rotate the compressor side to the orientation you desire.
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Old 04-04-2007, 08:42 PM   #3
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If you don't know what i'm talking about, look here:
https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/sh...13&postcount=9
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Old 04-05-2007, 12:33 AM   #4
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Specifically what is wrong? Is it the turbine housing or the compressor housing that isn't lining up.

The turbine housing is held on by 4 bolts and 2 C-shaped brackets.

The compressor housing is held on by a large snap-ring.
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Old 04-05-2007, 12:34 AM   #5
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that snap-ring is a bitch.
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Old 04-05-2007, 12:43 AM   #6
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the broomstick method hasn't failed me yet.
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Old 04-05-2007, 12:49 AM   #7
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the water inlet(outlet?) pipe is hitting the manifold ..so according to my friend.. i need to clock it to make it fit. :shrug:
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Old 04-05-2007, 02:11 AM   #8
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You can't just turn the clock the thing so that the water line doesn't hit the manifold. The most important thing is that the OIL INLET/DRAIN must be within 10* of vertical to drain properly... so, after you loosen the four bolts that hold the turbine housing to the CHRA, and then twist the CHRA so that the oil INLET faces up, if the water line on that side is still hitting the manifold, then you've got a problem. Also, when you twist the CHRA with the COMPRESSOR HOUSING still attached, it rotates that too. The WASTEGATE ACTUATOR is attached to the compressor housing and now will not line up the with wastegate flapper... so you might need to figure out another way to attach your wastegate actuator to the compressor housing.

The best idea would be for you to take a few pictures of the turbo and the manifold for us so we can step-by-step this thing for you.
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Old 04-05-2007, 02:34 AM   #9
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h**p://imageserver.isnweb.com/KTI51111.jpg

Pliers like that are awesome for removing those huge snaprings. You can get a good set of snap ring pliers which are frequently $30 unless the harborfreight ones are good, or you can get these at walmart for $8.
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Old 04-05-2007, 12:43 PM   #10
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ill take pictures when i get home tonight. i hope i can use this manifold :(
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Old 04-05-2007, 12:46 PM   #11
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The mani won't be the issue. If you have to run water then bending new lines costs about $10-$15 in parts and you do it yourself with a little tubing bender that you can borrow from autozone or whatever you have local to you. The actual fitting in the turbo can be replaced with a compression nut as well.
If it comes down to it, you don't even have to run water for cooling. Run synthetic oil like you should and don't boost up your driveway before you shut it down.
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