Yes it's an innovate lc1 but just to complicate things the tuner studio doesn't detect the sensor. I have an issue with the connector that goes to the ecu with that wire and ebc etc as neither work wired to that plug. I tried to resolve it previosly with no luck. My car should be back together tomorrow night with cops installed. I will take the figures from 1 map below 100kpi unless told otherwise and see how it runs.

It would be simpler if I could set the ecu to correct it self using the afr but like I said that creates a few probs.

Double post sorry

I would just take it one step at a time, fix the tune asap since you know thats holding you back. Make a set of detcans for sure! they are awesome and makes tunning much less stressful, you know when its pinging even if its not loud.

Are you sure that's a T28? There should be a metal tag on the CHRA. What does it read?

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1310674518

I agree there's something else going on. It's not just the tune.

Hi mate,
Turbo has wrote on:
CE 0172J
14411-82F01
471104-1A

I know this is off topic but im having probs with my COPS which arent helping. It had a misfire and then a COP has failed. Thats 2 COPS gone now (However I think 1 may have been broken before I put it on) Tach did read as well and now doesnt!
Going to buy a resistor to do the mod and hope that works.

One quick thing though. It says set to 3.5ms crank and 2.5 dwell (I think!) I can set 1 of these figures on tuner studio but cant find where to set the other. Would that make a difference and blow COPS?

Still got issues with the ignition map etc. it pings it's tits off when you give it wot.

Add more fuel. You don't make power if you are detonating.

For reference, 18-20 psi I made over 400 whp on a Mustang Dyno, like others have said you have other issues besides just a tune.

Or the tuners daughter. :party:

If its the continuous running, definitely will. COPs dont like being ran at 5 dwell.

The strange thing is that if I'm driving in 2ndgear doing 30mph then push my foot hard to the floor then it pings. If I slowly feed my foot down then it doesn't. So how do you translate this to a fuel map. The axis up the side is that your throttle position? How much fuel should I try and add. Could someone post there ignition and fuel map together so I can compare how yours are to mine?

I'm not sure what ecu you are running or how you have it set up, but if you mash the throttle or go on it slow you will be in different fuel table cells. You need to do some data logging and find out in what cells it is pinging. Easiest way is to get someone to drive your car while you sit in the passenger seat with a laptop hooked up to your ecu. Watch the screen in your fuel chart see where it pings and add fuel.

The ECu is a Megasquirt DIYPNp from Brain. The software is tuner studio. I need to get a laptop thats the problem. Plus to add to it all I cant get my damn wideband to comunicate with the ecu so I cant do auto analyse which would be massivley helpful at this moment in time. The really frustrating thing is I have followed all the instructions to the letter of the law on how to install a wideband and the same for the EBC and they just will not work which is adding to making everything harder to get sorted.

I will have a ride out now and try and borrow a laptop then set it up so I can do a log.

At this point you really don't need your wideband running. The pinging sound is going to guide you as far as your AFR's are going. Like I said, the best option right now would be to get someone to drive your car while you monitor the fuel table/pinging sound. When it pings, look at what fuel cell it is sitting on, and increase fuel.

It's so frustrating. I can't get a laptop until tomorrow. If you advance the timing as much as possible then stop it pinging by adding fuel. Is that how you get the max bhp out your car? Or is it not better to reduce timing?

Usually people go the other way, add fuel to the correct afr then add timing till pinging occurs.

Have you all tuned your own cars like this or did you get someone else to do it for you?
It just seems like there is so much room or error and uncertainty as to if you have get it to the best setting.

I'm sure my afr is around 14.5 most the time but when you give I wot it can go o 10 or there abouts. Hitting 14.5 all the time would be a challenge in its self.

You should be at 11.5 in boost, NOT 14.5 or anywhere near 14. 14.7-15 in cruise ONLY. Its hard to watch the gauge and the rpm gauge and the road at the same time, you need to run logs.

Simple question, how much is your engine worth? Keep going the way you are and its going to be a burnt down pile of junk. Worth $10 at the recycle yard.

How much is a good tune, give or take? About $5-600. Take it to a pro...you know the guy that does this day in day out for a living and let him set you up. IMO all build costs should include tuning at a reputable shop by a competent tuner.

I agree in an ideal world I would pay the £400 the tuner wants but that's £400 I could do without having to explain to my wife why I spent it.

The last thing I want is to blow the engine but if it happens then it's hard luck. I need to learn the art of tuning and so I guess I have lots of reading to do. I thought it would be easier but as I said everything is stacked against me as I need to get a laptop then get someone I trust and who is insured to drive the car back and forth until I have a credible tune. It would be easier if the ecu recognised the wide band then I could setup ve analyse but it doesn't so it has to be the hard way.

Is there anyone who has a similar build to mine that I could use all the vsame numbers from the tables and see how mine performs with this map?

Surely the tuners have a saved map that they upload then just tune the lumps and bumps out. I doubt they start a fresh every time.