Tim_spencer391

I apologise in advance if I’ve broken any rules, is my first time posting on forum like this. I just wanted to give back to the community because I received a lot of help on this Turbo build over the last three weeks.

listed below will be instructions on how to fit a TD04 kit for a mk1 From Bofi racing As their kit does not have any instructions at all.

hope it has everything you need, and happy building!How to fit a TD04 to a NA6/NA8



Buy one of these. You’ll need it later. I didn’t have one and It made me regret buying an mx5


You’ll need



Axle stands

Jack

Torque wrench

Socket wrench kit

7mm, 10mm, 12mm, 13mm, 14mm, 15mm, 16mm, 17mm, 19mm, 22mm socket and spanner

A 24mm DEEP socket

14mm spark socket

Crosshead and flathead small and large.

Glasses

Headtorch

Pliers of different sizes

Drill and bits



Other stuff but can’t remember. You’ll figure it out.







This will be a comprehensive guide, but because I didn’t have Pwr steering or AC, you might need to find out how to do things slightly different if my instructions seem difficult.



Il place a video link where I feel it will help you out, but do some research on each thing before you start it.



Let’s begin. Watch this. and follow the instructions below.



First, you need to remove all of the old stock things. I’d highly advise doing all of this before you make a start on anything. Sell the old stuff on ebay.



Start with the air intake. Remove at the inlet source and Unclip the MAF, airbox, PCV Hose, IACV hose, and any other hoses from the Resonance Chamber (which is the long black thing inbetween your manifold and your filter)

Loosen the idle control completely while you’re there to make the first start easier.



Unscrew the airbox hose and any other little retarded things that you won’t need.



Next let’s do what I think is the most difficult part of this whole thing. Getting the downpipe off. Watch this gives you a BASIC idea of what I am chatting about. This might be better


Remove the exhaust manifold heat shield, and gaze upon your Mazda headers.

Safely jack up the car, and place on axle stands. Jacking point is the front frame rail and the rear diff for a trolley jack, but if you don’t have a trolley jack your life is going to be difficult. All four axle stands as high as you can. Great.



Use that 22mm O2 sensor socket that I told you to buy to remove the O2 sensor from the downpipe. Yes this will be very hard and i didn’t even get it off, I just cut the wires as close as I could and unclipped it up too behind the engine head.



Remove the exhaust manifold and the big nut holding the EGR Tube onto it underneath

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Under the car, remove the downpipe from the cat converter. Remove the exhaust manifold bolts and pullout from the top! If it’s not coming out or is feeling stuck, review the steps but note that ***You might need to remove a clip that is holding the downpipe onto the same bolt as the transmission housing, I did but it’s quite uncommon. Sorry, I don’t have any videos on that, just see if you can find something.





Next up fuel injectors.

Pull out the fuel pump relay fuse to prevent fuel spill everywhere. Remove the fuel rail, and each electrical clip that pumps the fuel injectors. Leave the old ones in for now.



Figure out how to build your new fuel injectors and how they go together. Each one comes with a wire adapter and The video on my insta (@that.miataguy) will help with this. (One of the videos shows me building and installing them briefly)



Install the new injectors and put the old ones aside. Reinstall frame rail and anything else you removed to make life easier.



Next is spark plugs. Remove the old ones using a spark plug socket. Now this is where You need to research how to index a spark plug, but in simple terms, take a black sharpie, and draw a line down the closed side of the spark plug. (The opposite side of the open part where the spark is made.) and make sure that this black line is facing your exhaust manifold on each spark plug. This ensures that the open side is facing your intake manifold ata perfect straight line and ignites the mixture at the same time across all four cylinders. You may see an extra 3 or 4 BHP doing this. You may not. Use of washers will prevent you from damaging the threads and over tightening.



Sort out the ecu note I brought a 442, so if you didn’t this might be different.





Drill holes in the original ecu case to allow your lines to be connected (MAP SENSOR LINES, Tuning cable, and O2 sensor that you would have installed on the new downpipe) three things, three holes. Figure out how big to drill them and use the correct bits.



Follow the vid and install the ecu. I suggest leaving the carpet out for when you need to run your lines to the ecu through the bulkhead.



Next remove your bumper. There’s a video here
If it doesn’t fall off you’ve probably missed something so do not force it. A torque wrench and some rust penetrating oil is your bestie here.



Go to the workbench and grab the following shiny new parts:

Turbo

Exhaust headers

Oil feed kit

Water feed kit

Forge wastegate

Small blanking cap (incl)



Take the turbo and bolt it to the exhaust manifold, using the stud kit incl.* (*I didn’t have a few things and ended up calling Bofi racing to ask where they were so they could resend them out to me, don’t panic if you cannot find a key part.) and I didn’t use the gasket. Probably should’ve but I didn’t. Your call. Look up the pros and cons if you like.



Mount the mounting bracket straight onto the turbo, Remove the mounting bracket from the new forge actuator, and attach the forge actuator directly onto the mounted adapter bracket, as shown in my video.



May take a bit of faffing but you need to tighten the control arm to the wastegate so it doesn’t slip.



Connect the oil feed kit, and the drain.

As well as the water feed and drain.*

*it doesn’t matter which is the feed and which is the drain when it comes to water, but the oil should come in through the top and out through the bottom- and should be clocked VERTICALLY- to ensure constant flow and drain of oil.*



Cap off the compressor housing nipple to prevent boost leak.



Now you’re ready to bolt all of this onto the engine, so take the exhaust header and bolt it on using the stock bolts and nuts. Torque spec is 28 ft lbs



Take your downpipe, screw in your new o2 sensor (it’s in the ECU box) and harness it in to the ecu directly through the bulkhead. (This is a 2 man job, one to guide through the bulkhead and one to pull it through to the ecu. Don’t make your life hard, find a friend.) this is different in LHD and RHD cars, so figure out how to route it through the bulkhead. (Pick a rubber grommet and go through that)



Using the downpipe stud kit, connect the downpipe to the turbo, I suggest lower it into place first and then bolt it on.



I had an issue where the G19 downpipe wouldn’t fit to the cat, but I had a customs 2.5 “ exhaust made anyway with a sports cat to fit onto it. Get a new sports cat made up or decat it to fit this downpipe if you’re having a drama.



Pop a filter onto the compressor housing…



Congrats, you have a turbo in your mx5

The next thing is plumbing your water cooling and oil feed and drain. Good video here , but another here of how to actually drill the drain into the sump


Next, drain the oil into a Bucket and set to side.



Drill and tap the oil drain. If you’ve never done this, I do suggest practicing on a piece of aluminium in a vice before you **** it up in your prized possession of a hairdressers car. If you mess it up, just re drill and re tap. Just try not to mess it up.



Start by centre punching the oil pan. greasing up a small drill bit. Drill a pilot hole



Now grease up your included drill bit and go to town. Make sure you don’t drill deep and puncture the oil line within. That’s expensive.



Tap the hole (grease up the tap first to catch all of those little shavings) screw in the drain thread that’s included and you’re set. Check for any play and seal if necessary. Take off your oil drain hose from the turbo, you’ll need it to run a bottle of white spirit through the hole you just made to clean out any shavings of metal and drain it into the bucket. Leave the drain unbolted 48 hrs to fully air out and dry the white spirit you’ve just run through while you work on other stuff.



Fit the water lines as shown in those videos above and you’ll be sound and saucy.



Next mount the intercooler. I did this without removing of the radiator, but if you want you can drain it and remove for space. Use the brackets shown in these pictures and mount the intercooler onto them:

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Next is the pipe work. Look at this and copy it

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Put a tightening clip on every single joint.



The drama I had was the uppipe not having ports on the correct side. The main problems with this is both the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) and the IAC valves do not plumb in, and cause idle and boost leak issues. You’ll need to purchase the following to make the IAC (idle air control valve) work:

19mm barbed joiner

180 degree 19mm silicone hose

90 degree 19mm silicone hose



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And 3D print a reducer tee with the measurements 19mm-9mm-19mm to allow for the PCV to link INTO the IAC plumbing. Hope that makes sense.



Fit your blow off valve to the silicone hose and fit that to the uppipe, and screw in (tight, it has a tendency to vibrate loose) the IAT sensor, which clips into the old MAF plugin. Plumb the blow off valve into the intake manifold.



Connect the intercooler pipes to the intake manifold and the turbo compressor



Ok now the oil feed. On the intake manifold side, (**1.8 only, for 1.6 it is on the exhaust side next to the egr tube***) find the oil filter. Left and up slightly is a oil pressure sender unit. Unscrew that, and install the 1/8” BSPT tee that bofi have sent you. if it feels hard, it’s probably not a BSPT, but an NPT. Send it back, ask for a BSPT, and be gentle, I snapped mine in the engine block and ended up having to buy an extractor set to remove it. Not fun. Anyway, once you know the tee fits easily, take it out to a vice and tightly screw in the pressure sender into the top, and the oil feed nipple into the side of the tee. Take this back to the car and screw it in using a 24mm deep socket. Once it’s in, screw in the oil feed line to the turbo. Make sure everything is tight, and fill up the oil again.



Put in around 4 litres to allow the turbo to be properly primed.



The electronic boost control solonoid install is next.



I fitted this to the intake manifold side because of the short length of wire. You’ll find a purge canister (unused, hopefully big charcoal can with vac lines leading to nowhere) with an electrical connection. Your two wires will hook up to here, and the mount will screw into a 10mm threaded hole in the chassis near it. Watch this video to get an idea of what I mean, but install it on the other side.


The vacuum lines route one into the uppipe and one into the actuator itself, while one vents to atmosphere. Details of what goes where are under the product descriptions on BOFI racings website.



You may need to crack out the old soldering iron for both this and the IAT sensor.


Now you can *remove the spark plug leads* (*VERY IMPORTANT*) and reconnect the fuel relay fuse, ensuring there is oil in the engine, and that all oil related screws are tight, crank the engine for 15 seconds to pull oil into the turbo and oil the seals. Put the spark leads back in, in the correct order, and you’re good to tune.



Grab a laptop, download the meite ecu software from me motorsport and a base map relevant to your year/model/turbo (ie I chose the 95981.8Turbo file because I have a 95 1.8 turbo.) configure it by following all the instructions on ME Motorsports website and attempt a first start! Once you got it going, book in a map at your local dyno and get that puppy tuned.



I think that is everything, if I’ve missed anything give me a message on insta @that.miataguy or message bofi directly.

shirtz

thanks for this. there are plenty of how to guides out there but always good to have another to see how someone has done it different. you have linked a few vids i havent seen so will take a look. this is the best series i have seen
hope it works well. let us know how much powa you make