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Old 12-14-2006, 12:49 PM   #1
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Default How To Install AEM Wideband

After buying a complete AEM Uego Gauge and Wideband Controller setup I decided to do a short writeup off my '99.
Board member Wideopentuning has a discounted price on them and can be found on the forum here. https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/showthread.php?t=5882

First thing in placement of the WB02 sensor on your downpipe. It should be atleast 3' away from your turbo if at all possible. Excessive heat will damage the sensor and or make it read incorrectly if not fail entirely, so your stock 02 sensor bung right near the turbo will not suffice for this if you have one.
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I mounted the resistor connector assembly on the heatshield leaving slack in the cable for the sensor to move around. The controller for the AEM is built into the gauge.
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Now you need to get your wiring into the car somehow. You have two options, run the wire all the way to the engine bay and run it through the firewall or run it up through the tunnel like I did. I didn't want to hassle with tieing the wire up all under the tunnel and then pick a grommet to run it through in the firewall. Option #2 Don't drill any holes, just run the wire up under the shift boot. Take off the bolts holding it down, run your wire, bolt it back in place, simple. I am also mounting my WB gauge in a 3 gauge Din panel so it will be perfect for my setup.
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I missed pictures of this but the AEM gauge has two connectors on the back, one that is solely for the sensor and the other is for power, datalogging, 1-5v output. You plug the sensor plug directly into the gauge and you're done with that. Then attach the red wire of the other plug using a vampire clip to a ignition 12v power source which can be done off of the stereo wiring, it should be the black/red wire in the harness. Then do the same thing for the black (ground) wire, but connect it to the black wire. Then there's the blue and white wires. I just extended them about 2 ft that way i won't have to remove the gauge panel when I decide i want to start datalogging or when I want to connect it to Megasquirt.
Final product, is one sweet looking gauge but one very empty looking gauge panel. I'll be filling those empty holes with an EGT gauge and an Oil Temperature gauge.
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PS. That is the Tullos Technology Electronic Boost Controller. It is not yet installed and that is not the faceplate i'm going to use finally, it was a quick mockup to see what is possible. I'll be using the Tullos as my boost gauge as it also has overboost protection. The faceplate will eventually be similar to that, but flat black, with a Hi/Lo boost switch mounted neck to it, with the possibility of another toggle for some random thing i come up with, maybe Water Injection on/off. We'll see.

Last edited by cjernigan; 12-01-2007 at 12:35 PM.
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Old 12-14-2006, 01:13 PM   #2
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My wb sensor is located in the midpipe, about where yours is. But I put the controller in the engine compartment, driver's side firewall area, between the brake master and where the greddy positions the air filter. The wires enter the cabin through an existing grommet (I belive it to be where cruise control wires go, if so equipped). My o2 gauge is in the center console under the radio, as well as access to the serial port for logging.
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Old 12-14-2006, 09:41 PM   #3
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As much as i'm gonna ad for now.
Oh yeah, i just relocated my airbag switch to behind the glovebox so no worries about that anybody.
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Old 12-14-2006, 09:59 PM   #4
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Looks good Chad
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Old 05-06-2010, 07:06 PM   #5
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sorry to bump an old thread, but I wanted to make a note that the radio 12v wire on my car (94 NA) is blue and black. It took me a good 30 mins to diagnose that I tapped the wrong wire. Thank god for a multimeter.

Otherwise I followed your instructions exactly and it works!

Thanks!
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Old 05-06-2010, 11:04 PM   #6
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The UEGO is pretty fool proof. Mine is still working without a hiccup to this day.
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Old 01-31-2013, 12:35 AM   #7
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Hey guys quick question, my down pipe doesn't have two sensor inputs just the top one by the turbo. Would I need to some how weld and mount one on? Or could I somehow make it work with the top female?
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Old 01-31-2013, 09:48 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by x5kid View Post
Hey guys quick question, my down pipe doesn't have two sensor inputs just the top one by the turbo. Would I need to some how weld and mount one on? Or could I somehow make it work with the top female?
If you read the original post, your wideband needs to be at least 3ft back from your turbo to read correctly. (usually best placement is just after your catalytic converter if you have one)

Depending on the brand of your wideband, it should have came with a metal bung. Take your downpipe and this bung to a local exhaust place and have them weld the bung on for you. Make sure you have good placement on the pipe so the sensor has plenty of room away from your transmission tunnel. Usually on the top side of the pipe.
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Old 02-22-2013, 10:23 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mazduh View Post
If you read the original post, your wideband needs to be at least 3ft back from your turbo to read correctly. (usually best placement is just after your catalytic converter if you have one)

Depending on the brand of your wideband, it should have came with a metal bung. Take your downpipe and this bung to a local exhaust place and have them weld the bung on for you. Make sure you have good placement on the pipe so the sensor has plenty of room away from your transmission tunnel. Usually on the top side of the pipe.
Actually I'm fairly sure you want it before the catalytic converter, and the bung must be on the upper half of the pipe to prevent fuel and moisture from sitting on the sensor and killing it. Manuals usually state this as well.
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Old 02-26-2013, 01:42 PM   #10
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Never EVER use vampire clips on anything. Those things have been known to tear apart wire and leave only a couple strands intact.

If you want to send the 5v output to MegaSquirt, put it in p0 or p1 mode, and then calibrate the sensor in TS. If you have a MS2 and up, you can calibrate quite easy. if you have a MS1, then you will have a hard time, but the answers are easy to come by.
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Old 10-11-2017, 06:06 PM   #11
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Quick question here. What about where the stock ecu sees output signal of Ueogo. My stock o2 cable has 4 wires. Installing my AEM unit this week and just been confused. Does the white cable go to the stock oxygen sensor connector?
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Old 10-12-2017, 11:27 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nb1Kosubi View Post
Quick question here. What about where the stock ecu sees output signal of Ueogo. My stock o2 cable has 4 wires. Installing my AEM unit this week and just been confused. Does the white cable go to the stock oxygen sensor connector?
The stock ECU will throw codes because the stock heater circuit will not be activated.
You can run your AEM wideband in narrowband mode. Its in the manual.
The white cable can go right to the stock oxygen sensor connector.

Also, this thread is over 10 years old? Start a new thread next time/ask in your build thread/google
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Old 10-13-2017, 12:25 PM   #13
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I think it is better he actually searched and ended up in the right thread.
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Old 10-13-2017, 02:10 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ByteVenom View Post
The stock ECU will throw codes because the stock heater circuit will not be activated.
You can run your AEM wideband in narrowband mode. Its in the manual.
The white cable can go right to the stock oxygen sensor connector.

Also, this thread is over 10 years old? Start a new thread next time/ask in your build thread/google
I can't find any mention of setting up a current gen aem uego gauge as a narrowband in any manual.
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Old 10-13-2017, 03:59 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpartanSV View Post
I can't find any mention of setting up a current gen aem uego gauge as a narrowband in any manual.
http://aemelectronics.com/files/inst...GO%20Gauge.pdf

It required some reading, but P4 emulates a nernst crystal - narrowband.
People have mixed results. ECU lost its brains because it didn't have a heater circuit involved in my NB1.

Also the google:
https://www.miataturbo.net/aem-59/ae...ock-ecu-80570/

If you really want to monitor your AFRs while on a stock ECU, use the stock sensor and have a shop add in a bung for your widebang for like 10$. This is the most foolproof way of doing this sorta thing.
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