Eric Risinger

https://imgur.com/a/w9qcXQH
These oil lines for my turbo are leaking oil quite badly. They're tightened as much as I'm willing to go without risking stripping the threads. Should I try silicone sealant, Teflon tape? What's recommended?
Also my trans drain bolt is leaking and it's tight, what do I do for that?
Thanks

Erat

iTrader: (5)

Yes, tef tape with a little bit of pipe dope.
The trans drain should have a copper crush washer, that probably needs to be replaced.

Eric Risinger

Thank you!
People like you are super helpful

technicalninja

If it's the flare fittings leaking I have a couple of suggestions...
Adding a coned copper washer like these
Crush Washers – SECO SEALS, Inc. – A World Leader in Aerospace Gaskets Since 1969
They have both 37 and 45 degree variants.
All of the Cummins TD have these pups in their oil feed lines. Having a flare seal is mandatory in aircraft applications.

Here's a guy who makes his own. He even anneals his properly.

I have used fine valve lap compound to hand fit the two flares and then used an anerobic sealant between the flare surfaces (a tiny little bit) and it's worked well.
LOCTITE 518 - Gasket Sealant - Henkel Adhesives (henkel-adhesives.com).

The most common application for me is OLD crusty AC lines from when they still used flares (think 70s and earlier) so the lap and seal works pretty good up to 300 psi in my book.

Adding/making the washer is the better choice IMO.

Sometimes you have to use the 518 to hold the copper crush washer in place during installation...

VertBert

-AN Lines are 37 degree flare seals, which are super common in industrial and mobile hydraulics, where they're referred to as JIC (the JIC standards is just a bit more loose and forgiving than the AN standard, but our stuff holds 3000+ psi all the time). We've used what are called "Flaretite" seals before to fix gouged and scratched flare fittings. They're super similar to technicalninja's SECO seals, but the Flaretites have a coating of a Loctite compound that fills the gouges and scratches really well. Just another option but probably a last resort, because they're relatively expensive.

Midtenn

iTrader: (15)

If its not a tapered tread (pipe tap) then this is bad advice. Adding Teflon tape or thread sealant is just a way of getting contamination in the system and something to fail down the road. If you have tightened the adapters all the way and they are still leaking, then you need to take them apart and check the sealing surfaces to make sure the are clean and not damaged. Even good companies sometimes make parts that slip past QC inspection.

Erat

iTrader: (5)

Yeah, sorry. It's common sense to you and I. I completely forgot to mention that.

Don't add tape or dope to the AN fittings, just the pipe thread.

Blkbrd69

If the line flare that meets the fitting flare is leaking? Earls makes a flare fitting washer that will fix it, although not recommended.
If its the internal seal on that funkey 90* adapter? You are SOL and need a new one.
Never use dope or tape on AN fittings, they seal on the flare. Tape or dope is for pipe threads.