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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

the hustler effect. smaller A/R on bigger turbo = better spool.

Old Aug 22, 2009 | 08:02 PM
  #41  
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There are plenty of Suby guys running 3071 and 3076s with .64 A/R. You're giving up a bit of top end, but not anything a sane responsible person will see on the street. It's a worthy tradeoff unless you get a hardon posting dyno graphs all day.

Quite a few overlays between the two over on NASIOC that show spool differences and top end.

Frank
Old Aug 22, 2009 | 08:27 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by y8s
you of all people should know how important it is to question the current dogma. that's what I'm doing.



you mean you should have chosen the 2871 .86 at first instead of trying the 2860 .64 for a street car and hoping for better spool with the latter?
I'd love to compare them but I don't really want to spend another $500.
Old Aug 22, 2009 | 09:12 PM
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I think anything over 300 whp on a track is worthless unless your running wide *** tires. Atleast in a miata...
Old Aug 22, 2009 | 11:38 PM
  #44  
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I might be willing to swap housings if someone had the standard .86, but it's kinda gotta have the wastegate welded shut.

incidentally, what's Pauls 2560 A/R?
Old Aug 23, 2009 | 12:29 AM
  #45  
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WG doesnt need to be welded shut Matt. You can just tie it shut with some wire.
Old Aug 23, 2009 | 12:33 AM
  #46  
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hell with no boost signal the WG wouldnt open anyway just swap and run the **** y8's
Old Aug 23, 2009 | 08:08 AM
  #47  
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Remember the "GT2871R" also comes in 3 different compressor trims.

Originally Posted by hustler
I'd love to compare them but I don't really want to spend another $500.
Anyone with one of my manifolds gets my price on TiAL stuff. At least for the foreseeable future. I did order a seperate .64 v-band turbine as part of the buy in.

EDIT: I really mean you pay retail/lowest allowable price and pay less for the manifold/downpipe...yeah.

Originally Posted by y8s
I might be willing to swap housings if someone had the standard .86, but it's kinda gotta have the wastegate welded shut.

incidentally, what's Pauls 2560 A/R?
Paul's 2560 is the standard .64, I think the only way the smaller gt25 turbine comes in.
Old Aug 23, 2009 | 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by gospeed81
Links to dyno sheet?

Sorry, I looked.
I can't find it anywhere.
Old Aug 23, 2009 | 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by sbkcocker499
I think anything over 300 whp on a track is worthless unless your running wide *** tires. Atleast in a miata...
Wrong
Old Aug 23, 2009 | 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by y8s
you mean you should have chosen the 2871 .86 at first instead of trying the 2860 .64 for a street car and hoping for better spool with the latter?
What I mean is that since this will be prodominately a track car, I should have gone with the .86 2871. If this was a street car, then I think the .64 2860 would be perfect.
Old Aug 23, 2009 | 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by TurboTim
I can't find it anywhere.
Lemme see if I can find it in my email.
Old Aug 23, 2009 | 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by rharris19
What I mean is that since this will be prodominately a track car, I should have gone with the .86 2871. If this was a street car, then I think the .64 2860 would be perfect.
Or get a bit of the best of both, with a 0.64 a/r 2871
Old Aug 24, 2009 | 01:10 PM
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Old Aug 24, 2009 | 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by ZX-Tex
Or get a bit of the best of both, with a 0.64 a/r 2871
judging from the dyno bleow, you and most others in this thread are wrong. Not **** talking...it just looks like the big turbine housing is prevailing. I lucked out.
Old Aug 24, 2009 | 02:10 PM
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At constant boost maybe, but what about flattening the torque curve by raising boost at higher levels? The bigger compressor wheel will keep the discharge air temperatures down (efficiency) and the added boost will help offset the higher flow turbine losses at higher RPMs. I plan on trying this myself. 225 ft*lb or so carried to as high an RPM as possible should be great. 225 ft*lbs @ 7000 RPM = 300 bhp. 225 ft*lbs @ 8000 RPM = 342 BHP (about 300 RWHP). Should be able to do this with a built motor from what I have seen.

There is no right answer here, just a matter of choosing one's compromise.
Old Aug 24, 2009 | 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by ZX-Tex
At constant boost maybe, but what about flattening the torque curve by raising boost at higher levels? The bigger compressor wheel will keep the discharge air temperatures down (efficiency) and the added boost will help offset the higher flow turbine losses at higher RPMs. I plan on trying this myself. 225 ft*lb or so carried to as high an RPM as possible should be great. 225 ft*lbs @ 7000 RPM = 300 bhp. 225 ft*lbs @ 8000 RPM = 342 BHP (about 300 RWHP). Should be able to do this with a built motor from what I have seen.

There is no right answer here, just a matter of choosing one's compromise.
I'm no engineer, but it looks like the wrong answer is the intake plenum because a few of us are on a wall.
Old Aug 24, 2009 | 03:14 PM
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I'm working on the intake right now; I'm removing VICS and opening up the plenum. The top half is done, and I am working on the bottom half now. Not as good as a full-up custom intake with a larger throttle but cheaper and easier.
Old Aug 24, 2009 | 08:16 PM
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^I'm in for data on this. I don't think anybody has had a direct before/after dyno plot for gutting the 99-00 manifold.
Old Aug 24, 2009 | 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by samnavy
^I'm in for data on this. I don't think anybody has had a direct before/after dyno plot for gutting the 99-00 manifold.
I will most likely be gutting my 99 intake manifold after i hit the dyno for ***** and giggles. Will create a thread if i do.
Old Aug 24, 2009 | 08:43 PM
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We may soon. I was going to do the same thing ZX-Tex is doing, but if he is doing it soon then I will wait.

How long do you think it will take? I was going to try to do it within the next few weeks.

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