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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 08-30-2007, 07:15 PM   #41
Ben
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Sam, could you re-link the pics please?
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Old 08-31-2007, 01:37 AM   #42
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I'm sorry... I tried to make space in my attachment folder after the new server came online so I could start attaching new photos... even after deleting over 200 attachments, I'm still way over the size limit. I can email them to you.
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Old 08-31-2007, 01:40 AM   #43
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hmm well I don't see where I have an upload limit... so you can send them to me and I'll attach or you can upload them to imageshack like a mere standard user
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Old 08-31-2007, 10:36 AM   #44
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Since most of my attachments are for writeups/sticky's I really can't delete any more of them to make room. I'm not an imageshack/photobucket guy cause I can't view them at work... the Navy computer system blocks the sites.

Maybe *HINT* *HINT* I can get Philip to UP my attachment limits! I'll send them in an email when I get home.

Mostly the pictures showed the spring and plunger that are inside the PCV valve lodged down underneath the right side camshaft. There's also a small mark (not a nick) on the camshaft where the plunger hit it when the valve broke. Are under the camshafts that is the top of the head isn't flat... it's full of small pools and indentations where oil collects... the pieces were in small pools of oil.
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Old 08-31-2007, 10:49 AM   #45
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Hmmm, one more thing to check on I guess.
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Old 08-31-2007, 10:58 AM   #46
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Sam--I asked Philip about it.
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Old 08-31-2007, 02:18 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harv View Post
Hmmm, one more thing to check on I guess.
If you're not blowing smoke out the exhaust, your PCV valve is probably working correctly. However, there's a reason that the Miata and the Mazda323GTX PCV valves are different part numbers. The 323GTX factory turbo car has a stronger spring tension and probably a stronger valve body. I'd like to find a 323GTX all-metal PCV valve.

It's always a good idea to swap the stocker to a turbo one for safety. I got damn lucky the plunger didn't jam under a cam lobe and take out my whole motor. Take it out and give it a good the plastic body a good inspection for cracks and any possible degradation.
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Old 09-01-2007, 12:34 AM   #48
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WOOHOO!!! Posting rights returned.... thanks Philip, I promise not to abuse it. Hope those pics help somebody else prevent it from happening. Enjoy!
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Old 09-01-2007, 12:38 PM   #49
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why not just run a catch can and eliminate the recirc system?
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Old 09-01-2007, 03:10 PM   #50
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I called the stealership yesterday, list is something stupid like $27 for the PCV. I just got the Purolator version for $2 from Advance. PV-1014 IIRC.
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Old 09-02-2007, 12:07 AM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmmjesse View Post
why not just run a catch can and eliminate the recirc system?
What do you mean? When installing a catch-can you're simply eliminating the possibility of blow-by entering the intake tract from the valve cover. Since I don't have any blow-by problems and never had any, I don't understand.

When this happened several months ago and the crankcase was pressurized due a failure of the PCV valve, it backed up the oil drain line and forced oil into the turbine housing. It was an easy fix, simply get the 323GTX PCV valve. No oil ever made it into the intake tract... probably due to the baffle installed inside the valve-cover to prevent any splash from getting to the breather port. Catch cans look dumb and cost money, even the DIY ones.

Please explain "eliminate the recirc system"... what exactly would I have to do and what would be the benefit of a catch-can over what I currently have?
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