i need to put the turbo in already!
#1
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i need to put the turbo in already!
hey guys.. ive had my 90% complete turbo kit sitting in my garage in a box for about 4 months now. All my friends have been bugging me and ive just been putting it off for 2 reasons.
reason #1: I need about 9 grade 8 or higher bolts/studs and the only place that i kno that has ARP bolts is Hillco. and thats in westminster.
reason #2: ive been deciding if i wanted to go piggy back or the standard fmu/1.8inj/msd timing retard box.
Can somebody help me source 9 grade 8+ bolts for the turbo(sr20 T25) to manifold(greddy manifold) and 5 grade 8+ bolts suitable for a custom downpipe?
and for my Engine management situation... can anyone recommend me a set up thats reliable for around 180-210 WHP? TIA!
reason #1: I need about 9 grade 8 or higher bolts/studs and the only place that i kno that has ARP bolts is Hillco. and thats in westminster.
reason #2: ive been deciding if i wanted to go piggy back or the standard fmu/1.8inj/msd timing retard box.
Can somebody help me source 9 grade 8+ bolts for the turbo(sr20 T25) to manifold(greddy manifold) and 5 grade 8+ bolts suitable for a custom downpipe?
and for my Engine management situation... can anyone recommend me a set up thats reliable for around 180-210 WHP? TIA!
#2
Call begi or FM and buy them from them. If you call today you should get them before the end of the week. As far as engine management, I'm biased toward a ecu piggyback/parallel/replacement over mechanical parts. But it looks like you already have all those parts anyway. They will get you to your power goals but you will run rich up top with them.
What lip is that on the miata in your avatar? Its too dark for me to make it out clearly.
What lip is that on the miata in your avatar? Its too dark for me to make it out clearly.
#3
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neogenesis2004
thanks for your quick response. the lip in my avatar is a carbon copy of the BSP lip.
If i were to call FM.. they could send me grade8+ bolts for my specific needs?
and for engine management.. i sold a lot of the stuff i had.. like the timing retarding box.
thanks for your quick response. the lip in my avatar is a carbon copy of the BSP lip.
If i were to call FM.. they could send me grade8+ bolts for my specific needs?
and for engine management.. i sold a lot of the stuff i had.. like the timing retarding box.
#14
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Depends on what your definition of engine management is. Can it be done with the stock ecu and piggyback fuel and timing control--YES. A BEGi FMU and BIPES can do it no problem. I hit 185rwhp at 9-10 psi with the BEGi FMU and Sebring and stock exhaust. 200 was a new downpipe away (or more boost). :gay:
#15
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how about a vortech FMU 12:1 disc, MSD Timing retard box, 1.8injectors, and190lph fuel pump? would that be able to handle 200whp safely? If the begi fmu and the bipes can handle it A LOT better, then i can always switch to that. Just want to know if what i had/have is enough. thanks
#16
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The 12:1 is used for 6psi... (150-160hp)
With 1.8 injectors maybe 7-8 psi...
Don't mess with these , it will cost you more then you want.
Get an begi afpr and a fp gauge.
A 190lph hp walbro.
O2 clamp (tricks ecu not to pull fuel at boost.)
Msd is nice, bipes is better...
As big of an exhaust you can get... 2.5inch=ideal
Don't forget clutch...Above 6psi youll need one.(ACT is good)
Adjust FP: youll need 6psi of fp for evey psi of boost.
So 6 psi boost = 36psi fp extra.
The base pressure: look a the fp gauge when idle. (32-37psi)
0psi pressure: easy: just unhook the oem fpr(end of fuelrail)(42-45psi)
So 42-45 is base pressure, on top of that you need 36 psi= 44+36=80psi.
The oem fuel pump can just manage that, thats why you don't need a fuelpump on a greddy base...
Anything above 6 youll need a bigger pump, a AFPR (BEGI)
But that is why a lot of people are running emanage blue...(250dollar)
It runs timing, fuel and is programmable.
You need bigger injectors (300-320cc) but there not so expencive..
With 1.8 injectors maybe 7-8 psi...
Don't mess with these , it will cost you more then you want.
Get an begi afpr and a fp gauge.
A 190lph hp walbro.
O2 clamp (tricks ecu not to pull fuel at boost.)
Msd is nice, bipes is better...
As big of an exhaust you can get... 2.5inch=ideal
Don't forget clutch...Above 6psi youll need one.(ACT is good)
Adjust FP: youll need 6psi of fp for evey psi of boost.
So 6 psi boost = 36psi fp extra.
The base pressure: look a the fp gauge when idle. (32-37psi)
0psi pressure: easy: just unhook the oem fpr(end of fuelrail)(42-45psi)
So 42-45 is base pressure, on top of that you need 36 psi= 44+36=80psi.
The oem fuel pump can just manage that, thats why you don't need a fuelpump on a greddy base...
Anything above 6 youll need a bigger pump, a AFPR (BEGI)
But that is why a lot of people are running emanage blue...(250dollar)
It runs timing, fuel and is programmable.
You need bigger injectors (300-320cc) but there not so expencive..
#19
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how about a vortech FMU 12:1 disc, MSD Timing retard box, 1.8injectors, and190lph fuel pump? would that be able to handle 200whp safely? If the begi fmu and the bipes can handle it A LOT better, then i can always switch to that. Just want to know if what i had/have is enough. thanks
12:1 is too aggressive of a ratio. If you have the vortec already, get a disk set. 5:1 or so is more appropriate. If you don't have the vortec now, get a BEGi FMU. Partnered with the 190 HP and 1.8s you'll have plenty of fuel.
I took the BEGi FMU and MSD to 185 on the dyno, but ultimately did get more power out of it by allowing a larger pressure bleed on the FMU, but never went back to the dyno. I was around 200 (estimated) on 9-10 psi w a 15g and stock exhaust to the axle.
#20
too me it makes more sense to go with an emanage. hard parts wise so far Ive installed my turbo kit and injectors. thats it and if Ive done my math right its good for my goals at 55psi fuel pressure and 330cc injectors.