IAT stainless bung to aluminium pipe - jbweld?
Thread Starter
Elite Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,574
Total Cats: 106
From: Schwarzenberg, Germany
Hi guys,
I have not a lot of knowledge about welding, but I suppose its not very easy or even possible to weld the bung for the GM IAT to my new (ebay) aluminium 2.5" intercooler pipes.
What did you do?
JBweld the bung in place? Would this be lasting? (I have no the best experiences with jbwelding something to my cam cover for my cop conversion)
I think the pipes will also be too thin to make a thread?
What did you do and how reliable was it/is it?
Thanks
I have not a lot of knowledge about welding, but I suppose its not very easy or even possible to weld the bung for the GM IAT to my new (ebay) aluminium 2.5" intercooler pipes.
What did you do?
JBweld the bung in place? Would this be lasting? (I have no the best experiences with jbwelding something to my cam cover for my cop conversion)
I think the pipes will also be too thin to make a thread?
What did you do and how reliable was it/is it?
Thanks
JB will work, lots of people holding together half their systems using JB Weld. Drill the appropriate sized hole, "thread" the sensor bung into hole with a hella amount of JB Weld.
Or you could get someone to weld a chunk of aluminum to the pipe, then drill and tap that.
Or you could get someone to weld a chunk of aluminum to the pipe, then drill and tap that.
i bought a 1/2" to 3/8" reducer pipe fitting (Home Depot), cut the appropriate size hole in al pipe, screwed it in until it was pretty solid, then JB welded around it-it's solid. Then screwed in the IAT sensor. cheap and effective
I dont understand everyone doing the JB weld thing on so many fittings, when you can buy the bungs and fittings of the correct material online or in stores and have it welded on for a few bucks at any welding shop. Sure if JB weld is the only option do so, but it sure does look nicer and more planned when welded on. To me its worth the extra little effort and maybe $40 for parts and labor to have it done right. I guess Im more wasteful than others...
I dont understand everyone doing the JB weld thing on so many fittings, when you can buy the bungs and fittings of the correct material online or in stores and have it welded on for a few bucks at any welding shop. Sure if JB weld is the only option do so, but it sure does look nicer and more planned when welded on. To me its worth the extra little effort and maybe $40 for parts and labor to have it done right. I guess Im more wasteful than others...
good enough also looks like some idiot redneck designed it. There's a reason FM and BEGI don't have any JB weld on their kits, no one would buy it. We're the DIY crowd, but jesus christ let's have some standards. What's next, zip tying the bung on?
Also, the hole was just slightly too small for the bung. I hammered the bung in tightly. Wouldn't even come out by hand before the JB weld. In addition to that, I used a sanding bit on the dremel on both the pipe and the bung.
yeah, this is what I did, iron/steel/brass threads practically "tap" themselves when screwed into aluminum, then jb weld to seal it...I also painted my pipes gloss black so it blends in fine...if you want polished aluminum piping then yeah, get it welded.
If you aren't a tard JB weld can look ok if painted. So tell me, how does FM and BEGI do the oil drain?
Thread Starter
Elite Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,574
Total Cats: 106
From: Schwarzenberg, Germany
But thats for the reason its a task to remove the oil pan to have a proper bung welded in (like I did). The only logical way to do it easily is to drill and tap, THEN JB weld it to seal up any leaks and to add additional strength. I guess one could also just drill and have one welded on car too. Im sure if you asked which way they would prefer, they would say a welded bung, not a JB welded fitting. But JB welding a turbo drain is one thing, a removable aluminum pipe is another.






