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IAT stainless bung to aluminium pipe - jbweld?

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Old Mar 13, 2009 | 02:15 PM
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Default IAT stainless bung to aluminium pipe - jbweld?

Hi guys,

I have not a lot of knowledge about welding, but I suppose its not very easy or even possible to weld the bung for the GM IAT to my new (ebay) aluminium 2.5" intercooler pipes.

What did you do?

JBweld the bung in place? Would this be lasting? (I have no the best experiences with jbwelding something to my cam cover for my cop conversion)

I think the pipes will also be too thin to make a thread?

What did you do and how reliable was it/is it?

Thanks
Old Mar 13, 2009 | 02:33 PM
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JB will work, lots of people holding together half their systems using JB Weld. Drill the appropriate sized hole, "thread" the sensor bung into hole with a hella amount of JB Weld.

Or you could get someone to weld a chunk of aluminum to the pipe, then drill and tap that.
Old Mar 13, 2009 | 02:51 PM
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Or couldnt you just get an aluminum bung and weld that...
Old Mar 13, 2009 | 03:37 PM
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Just weld an aluminum bung to the pipe and threat the IAT into that.
Old Mar 13, 2009 | 04:08 PM
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Yes that is quite an idea...

Greets
Old Mar 13, 2009 | 04:36 PM
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I just JB welded my bung on, its SOLID.
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Old Mar 13, 2009 | 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by wayne_curr
I just JB welded my bung on, its SOLID.
Great, i plan on doing this exact thing tomorrow morning.
Old Mar 13, 2009 | 11:34 PM
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If you have the time and resources to do it right, I suggest you do so. That said, JB will work fine...
Old Mar 14, 2009 | 12:28 AM
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i bought a 1/2" to 3/8" reducer pipe fitting (Home Depot), cut the appropriate size hole in al pipe, screwed it in until it was pretty solid, then JB welded around it-it's solid. Then screwed in the IAT sensor. cheap and effective
Old Mar 14, 2009 | 01:58 AM
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I dont understand everyone doing the JB weld thing on so many fittings, when you can buy the bungs and fittings of the correct material online or in stores and have it welded on for a few bucks at any welding shop. Sure if JB weld is the only option do so, but it sure does look nicer and more planned when welded on. To me its worth the extra little effort and maybe $40 for parts and labor to have it done right. I guess Im more wasteful than others...
Old Mar 14, 2009 | 02:12 AM
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Originally Posted by NA6C-Guy
I dont understand everyone doing the JB weld thing on so many fittings, when you can buy the bungs and fittings of the correct material online or in stores and have it welded on for a few bucks at any welding shop. Sure if JB weld is the only option do so, but it sure does look nicer and more planned when welded on. To me its worth the extra little effort and maybe $40 for parts and labor to have it done right. I guess Im more wasteful than others...
Because sometimes good enough is indeed good enough.
Old Mar 14, 2009 | 02:59 PM
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good enough also looks like some idiot redneck designed it. There's a reason FM and BEGI don't have any JB weld on their kits, no one would buy it. We're the DIY crowd, but jesus christ let's have some standards. What's next, zip tying the bung on?
Old Mar 14, 2009 | 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by wayne_curr
I just JB welded my bung on, its SOLID.
I'm not sure you used enough..

I've only had one JB'd part fail, everything I've JB'd since was "threaded" in and JB was used to ensure the seal is tight.
Old Mar 14, 2009 | 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by kotomile
I'm not sure you used enough..

I've only had one JB'd part fail, everything I've JB'd since was "threaded" in and JB was used to ensure the seal is tight.
This is the second thing i've JB welded. The first thing was a clutch cable on a Scrirocco. It broke where it attached to the tranny. Took 2 attempts as we didn't use enough JB the first time, so I used double what I thought was necessary for this job =P

Also, the hole was just slightly too small for the bung. I hammered the bung in tightly. Wouldn't even come out by hand before the JB weld. In addition to that, I used a sanding bit on the dremel on both the pipe and the bung.
Old Mar 14, 2009 | 05:10 PM
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if you want an alum. bung i had my friend make extras, i have 1 more.
Old Mar 14, 2009 | 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by kotomile
I'm not sure you used enough..

I've only had one JB'd part fail, everything I've JB'd since was "threaded" in and JB was used to ensure the seal is tight.
yeah, this is what I did, iron/steel/brass threads practically "tap" themselves when screwed into aluminum, then jb weld to seal it...I also painted my pipes gloss black so it blends in fine...if you want polished aluminum piping then yeah, get it welded.
Old Mar 14, 2009 | 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by curly
good enough also looks like some idiot redneck designed it. There's a reason FM and BEGI don't have any JB weld on their kits, no one would buy it. We're the DIY crowd, but jesus christ let's have some standards. What's next, zip tying the bung on?
If you aren't a tard JB weld can look ok if painted. So tell me, how does FM and BEGI do the oil drain?
Old Mar 15, 2009 | 02:33 AM
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Originally Posted by 240_to_miata
if you want an alum. bung i had my friend make extras, i have 1 more.
Thanks, but I think it would be too expensive to send to Germany, I think I get one made myself... Thanks!
Old Mar 15, 2009 | 03:52 AM
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Originally Posted by jayc72
If you aren't a tard JB weld can look ok if painted. So tell me, how does FM and BEGI do the oil drain?
But thats for the reason its a task to remove the oil pan to have a proper bung welded in (like I did). The only logical way to do it easily is to drill and tap, THEN JB weld it to seal up any leaks and to add additional strength. I guess one could also just drill and have one welded on car too. Im sure if you asked which way they would prefer, they would say a welded bung, not a JB welded fitting. But JB welding a turbo drain is one thing, a removable aluminum pipe is another.
Old Mar 15, 2009 | 02:01 PM
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Hehe, I JB welded a leaky A/C fitting on my car. On the high side too. **** don't leak no more...



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