I'm well vested in aluminum.
 

I think I'm good for heat shielding....

http://boostedmiata.com/new_miata/en...tshield002.jpg

http://boostedmiata.com/new_miata/en...tshield003.jpg

http://boostedmiata.com/new_miata/en...tshield005.jpg

http://boostedmiata.com/new_miata/en...tshield006.jpg

http://boostedmiata.com/new_miata/en...tshield007.jpg

http://boostedmiata.com/new_miata/en...tshield008.jpg



Thanks Steph for the shields....made the turbine one fit perfectly. 1" spacer, chopped off the rear tab, added one for the valve cover.

Looks good, needs more compressor...

dang thats cool.......wink wink

Wait did you seriously mount the heatshield to the body of the car then bolt a bracket from the heatshield to the motor?
I know you have mazcomp mounts but I don't think that bracket wannabe brace will do much for you.

FWIW all of the bowser shields are mounted to the VC and that same tab.

Attachment 212373

the tab on the valve cover flexes with any movement, i thought of this, otherwise i would have done it differently. but yeah, with my MSM mounts, the motor barely moves. If i can find the stock little rubber piece form the airbox, I'll swap it in.

Cool stuff then. They're heatshield is stout as heck to begin with let alone with extra bracing. I'm jealous, seriously you better lock your shit so I don't steal it.

I had to cut off the rear mounting tab, took forever with my cut off wheel.... like 30x thicker than the flimsy 18g cold air box I made :)

Just use a little leftover heater hose or drain hose.

that would be a lot of leftover.....if you look at the mounting tab near the master, I have a 1" spacer. The shield was designed for a 2860, my T3 needed more headroom. The stock bushing that goes there would be perfect, I just dunno if I still have it, I'll have to look in all my boxes 'o stuff.


But I've been averaging 90-100*F intake temperatures in cruise on 80-90* days....can't wait to see what this does for me. Before I button it up I'm going to drill a few hole below the filter itself. This should help promote airflow through the naca duct, as the fender well below it should be a low pressure zone.

that aluminum heat shield over the turbine is going to crack like nobody's business. flexing aluminum doesn't have nearly the same fatigue life as steel. make a springy version?

Nice stuff.. Do you have a pic of that airbox out of the car?
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no. but imagine a triangle bent 90*. i can take one next weekend.


or you can picture it from this:

http://boostedmiata.com/random/cold_air_box.jpg

I want one, prices?

Aluminum doesn't embrittle with thermal cycling, and its fatigue life in something like that is pretty good. I don't know what grade he used, but 2024 and 7075 are specially suited for high cycling low load fatigue. I'd imagine with the lack of substantial deflection he'd be alright with any grade though. Its tougher then most people give it credit for.

Nice looking piece

The two on the manifold are BEGi pieces. that are probably 14g or 12g. I had to alter the turbine heatshield as it wasn't deigned for my turbo. The rear mounting tab also interfered with my heat hose, as BEGi reroutes the heater core return line. I chopped it off. SO I was left with only one mounting point, and that wouldn't fly. So I riveted a strip of 18g aluminum and attached it to the valve cover.

The only other spot I can see working, it attaching it to bracket off the brake proportioning valve....I decided against this, as I wouldn't want a heat source directly connected to something my brake fluid flows through. So I had to deal with the valve cover.

I have seen plenty of shields mounted in the fashion without issue....and the bowser heatshield its something like 18g or 20g aluminum.



the cold air box I made myself with 18g aluminum sheet. It cost $15.99. I believe it was 25" x 25". I used a cardboard template and then traced it on the aluminum. I cut it out with an air nibbler. I cut out the hole with a 4.5" hole saw. I bent it in a saw horse. is not hard to make, maybe an hour of my time.

coughstainlesscough

yeah and they all eventually crack. Mine's been rewelded and riveted, and guess what it did again a couple weeks ago. I think chad's right.

O RLY?

Hopefully I have better luck with mine, since the rearmost piece has been hacked to clear the Begi DP.

Is this picture to scale? That's a 4.5" hole?