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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 05-30-2013, 01:28 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by viperormiata View Post
Think about that really hard before you do it. I don't see why you couldn't make it work. My turbo is larger physically(probably not as long, though) and I have tons of room for a/c.

There is nothing worse than sitting in traffic and the sweltering heat just engulfs you. No one will ever want to ride in your car.
True true.
I want to wait for the 7163 it'll be about the same size as the 6758, according to everything I've read on it. I should expect spool of an 6758 but +50hp up top.
I would think though with my TS/IWG/QSV set up I should spool even faster.

I was talking to a 2JZ person (lord knows they need all the spool they can get) he was saying QSV are about an inch to an inch and a quarter thick though. That really shifts the turbo position.

There's seems to be no doubt I'll have to get a custom manifold/downpipe, I'm realizing that.
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Old 05-30-2013, 03:28 PM   #42
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For the record, Brad Penn sells really good break in oil. My local speed shop gets 5.25/qt for it.
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Old 05-30-2013, 03:41 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by vehicular View Post
For the record, Brad Penn sells really good break in oil. My local speed shop gets 5.25/qt for it.
What's the point of "break in oil"? or even the difference from conventional?
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Old 05-30-2013, 03:49 PM   #44
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Break in oil usually has lots of anti wear additives and detergents and no temperature stability agents.
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Old 05-30-2013, 04:27 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by vehicular View Post
For the record, Brad Penn sells really good break in oil. My local speed shop gets 5.25/qt for it.
How is it any better than single grade SAE30 oil from Walmart @ $17/gallon?
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Old 05-30-2013, 08:30 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by soviet View Post
How is it any better than single grade SAE30 oil from Walmart @ $17/gallon?
Well hopefully a break in oil is a crap load thinner than straight 30 when cold, unless you're going to run an oil heater. Straight 30 doesnt work as a hydrodynamic bearing lubricant until like 180*F IRRC, thats a whole lot of time on your fresh engine to be clanging the bearings off the crank.
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Old 05-30-2013, 11:05 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by soviet View Post
How is it any better than single grade SAE30 oil from Walmart @ $17/gallon?
Apples and oranges. Dedicated break-in oil has higher phosphorous/zinc levels to promote ring seal and prevent excessive bearing wear, and a specific lack of molybdenum (friction modifier) to promote ring seal. I break in new race engines on Amsoil SAE30 break-in oil. Worth the extra $2/qt IMO.
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Old 06-02-2013, 08:39 AM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Savington View Post
Apples and oranges. Dedicated break-in oil has higher phosphorous/zinc levels to promote ring seal and prevent excessive bearing wear, and a specific lack of molybdenum (friction modifier) to promote ring seal. I break in new race engines on Amsoil SAE30 break-in oil. Worth the extra $2/qt IMO.
Is Sav says he uses it you know it's true.

Also here I'm attaching my tune file. I want to make sure it's all set up like it needs to be.

It's for a 1.9L using ID1000's, 36-1 trigger wheel w/ sequential injection, launch control/flat shift (Woe is me, I fixed the number that fucked my engine up), Using MSM CoP wasted spark ignition system, EBC as yet to be wired up though.

Let me know if you need to know anything else to make sure the settings are good to go.
To me it looks like it's good to crank and set timing. (thus I have anything that could change timing or fuel off, ya know the standard first set up of MS on your car deal) but I'm not nearly as knowledgeable as most... well some of the guys here.

PS: Ignore my noobie tuned VE table
Attached Files
File Type: msq ImpulsTune.msq (83.8 KB, 90 views)
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Old 06-23-2013, 08:37 PM   #49
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Some updates:
I finally got my bearings


Now I'll be getting the rotational assembly balanced and journals micro polished. Then I can finally assemble and get my car running again.

I acquired a blox manifold from 18psi. It's pretty cool and all.

I plan on running a 70mm throttle body and I plan on having the actual manifold "ported" if I can find someone who does it.

I'm still waiting for August to come around and hopefully order the EFR 7163 and have the manifold and downpipe made.
I was getting a little anxious thinking about buying my buddies 16g6 to run. But figured it would be a waste.


______
This Saturday I went with my friend to have it newly turbo equipped s2000 dyno tuned. The dyno is $60 an hour which seems pretty damn good. Though it's not a steady state :/ It is suppose to be biggest dynojet made though. Very nice in ground setup. 2 screens next to the car. The wall in front of the car has a projector to display chart as well.

The shop that owns it though can talk **** like no other though haha, they are a LS engine specialist. Lots of corvettes. I was in a twin turbo vett and never knew it till I looked where the mufflers were suppose to be.
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Impuls build-c360_2013-06-23-02-57-43-954_zpsdfbbcdcc.jpg   Impuls build-c360_2013-06-20-12-31-28-146_zpsac06dd4a.jpg  
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Old 06-23-2013, 08:52 PM   #50
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August will come and go. Time moves a lot faster than you expect.
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Old 06-23-2013, 09:11 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soviet View Post
August will come and go. Time moves a lot faster than you expect.
True true, thanks for the incite.
August the EFR becomes available, September they ship out... hopefully.
It'll give me time to make sure everything is sound on the car though.
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Old 06-27-2013, 01:34 PM   #52
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So maybe you guys can shed some light on pistons a call from the machine shop saying my pistons weren't connected to the rods right? (sweated the metal to push the wrist pin in)
They are saying that it's free floating and needs hone bored for an extra $180.
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Old 06-27-2013, 01:56 PM   #53
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I did not quite follow. Do you mean that the pin is tight on the rod or the piston? The pin should move freely on the rod, be snug against the piston bore. If it is too tight on the rod, it will overheat.
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Old 06-27-2013, 02:39 PM   #54
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Originally Posted by miata2fast View Post
I did not quite follow. Do you mean that the pin is tight on the rod or the piston? The pin should move freely on the rod, be snug against the piston bore. If it is too tight on the rod, it will overheat.
They never said anything was to tight. They just said the way it was put together was wrong.
It probably was to tight on the rod. as I quote what they said "if you would if put this into your engine like this it would of torn apart and probably rip apart your block"
It's a good thing I wanted everything balanced I suppose.

They also said that my ARP flywheel bolts are the wrong size.
I got them here http://miataroadster.com/arp/arp_fly.../i-404514.aspx

Edit: which turns out Fidanza threads their flywheel differently then stock. Which I guess Fidanza did 8x1.25 mm thread pitch,16 mm bolt. After some research.

Last edited by Impuls; 06-27-2013 at 03:06 PM.
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Old 06-27-2013, 04:48 PM   #55
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Yes, the Fidanza flywheel bolts are coarse thread. The aluminum they're threaded into can't be fine thread for obvious reasons.

If you are unsure what is going on with the rods, I would suggest making a visit to your shop just so you have a full understanding on what the problem is. That way you can articulate exactly what the issue is to us, and for your own personal knowledge.
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Old 06-27-2013, 05:15 PM   #56
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Why exactly is a flywheel threaded?
Wouldn't/ couldn't that cause a gap between the crank?
if the crank is fine thread and the flywheel is course thread.. they shouldn't work?
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Old 06-27-2013, 05:18 PM   #57
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The clutch cover bolts thread into the flywheel.

Most aftermarket aluminum flywheels are also thicker than the stock steel ones they replace. I imagine your ARP bolts aren't long enough. Call Fidanza.
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Old 06-27-2013, 05:19 PM   #58
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I thought you were referring to the clutch to flywheel bolts. My bad. The threads are coarse because it is going into aluminum.
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Old 06-27-2013, 06:23 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miata2fast View Post
I thought you were referring to the clutch to flywheel bolts. My bad. The threads are coarse because it is going into aluminum.
I'm referring to crank bolts. I'm thinking the old guy from the machine shop was thinking about the clutch bolts (6ea), the crank bolts(6ea) shouldn't have threaded holes on Fidenza flywheel.

Machine shop just closed. They said my rotating assembly is balanced and everything is good to go, AFTER they told me the flywheel bolts won't thread.

There's some serious miscommunication going on.
I'm going tomorrow to see what's up in person.
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Old 06-27-2013, 06:27 PM   #60
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The fidanza holes for the crank bolts are really tight, so much so that my bolts have "tapped" the holes a bit. That may be why he's under the impression they thread into the flywheel.

He should know better, though.
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