DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Intercooler Piping

 
Old 04-10-2018, 08:12 PM
  #1  
Newb
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 28
Total Cats: 2
Default Intercooler Piping

Hello,

Reaching out for some suggestions. I am closing in on finishing up installing a TSE EFR kit in my '96 (hope this is the right section). Finally getting to building some charge piping. After clocking the turbo and having a actual look at what could work, I am realizing the limitations of pop up head lights. Anyone would care to share their ideas/success/failures of running charge pipe for this turbo/mani and chassis or similar. I am initially planning on keeping the AC and PS in place. Not seeing a whole lot of threads out there address the issues, maybe i'm looking wrong... Its seems at this point i'll need to employ a fairly convoluted plumbing system to get this working; maybe a 180* right off the compressor outlet, seems less than ideal. or go through the wheel well which seems like a worse idea.

Last edited by catalyst; 04-11-2018 at 03:01 PM.
catalyst is offline  
Old 04-10-2018, 08:55 PM
  #2  
Senior Member
 
Schroedinger's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 553
Total Cats: 110
Default

2 inch piping on the hot side. Check out the routing for Lars’ complete MKTurbo kit; he actually has the turbo clocked towards the hood, then the piping taking a 180 degree turn down to get it in front of all the PS/AC stuff.
Schroedinger is offline  
Old 04-10-2018, 10:45 PM
  #3  
Supporting Vendor
iTrader: (31)
 
Savington's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Sunnyvale, CA
Posts: 15,282
Total Cats: 1,998
Default

In order from turbo to throttle body:
  • 45deg 2" in/out silicone coupler, aims straight down
  • 45deg 2" aluminum bend, aims mostly to the driver's side and a bit forward as well
  • ~75deg 2" aluminum bend. This welds to the prior bend, sits directly underneath the swaybar, parallel to the ground, perpendicular to the intercooler
  • 90deg 2.5" to 2" silicone reducer. This completes the piping into the intercooler
Post-IC is a bit harder:
  • 90deg 2.5" in/out silicone coupler, aims straight backwards (outlet parallel with ground)
  • 3x aluminum bends. One 90deg, one 60deg, one 45deg. These will be welded together. The idea is to get behind the swaybar, then wrap up and around it from behind. The 45deg bend is last in the sequence, and the piping comes up between the alternator, frame rail, and sway bar. The 90deg and 60deg can swap places depending on the exact path you take. Tuck it as tight as you can to the pulleys to leave clearance for fans.
  • 90deg 2.5" to 2.5" (OEM TB) or 2.75" (Skunk2 TB) coupler into throttle body
The only other secret is to keep all the piping inboard of the sway bar on either side. That ensures clearance for the wheel/tire at full lock.

Before I could weld, I would fit all the pipes with 2" painters tape, then transport to a welder for tacking and welding. To trim/adjust silicone couplers, use a hose clamp as a guide and a brand new razorblade in a box knife. Fresh blades go through silicone like butter, and the guide makes the cut foolproof.

Beadroll both pipes when you're done and use good stainless worm-drive clamps.
__________________
Trackspeed Engineering
High-Performance Turbo Specialists - Sunnyvale, CA - 650-701-7223 - Email us!
Originally Posted by codrus View Post
Basically I've come over to the camp of "If something is a reliability problem on the track, just ask Andrew and do what he says".
Savington is offline  
Old 04-10-2018, 11:26 PM
  #4  
Newb
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 28
Total Cats: 2
Default

Oh man, a definitive answer indeed! thank you sir. I will be ordering up some pipe bends tonight, this is a big help. When it comes to welding this thing up it should be interesting, a friend will keep me on the straight an narrow but I hope build it without assistance. appreciate the advice.

Last edited by catalyst; 04-11-2018 at 03:01 PM.
catalyst is offline  
Old 04-11-2018, 09:16 AM
  #5  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: NorthWest NJ
Posts: 1,452
Total Cats: 70
Default

Cold side, you can do it with three 2.5" 90* couplers, and a 45* aluminum bend. 90 out of the intercooler pointing toward the back of the car, 45* aluminum pipe parallell to the ground and pointing toward the driver side. This will get you inboard of the sway bar and under it, as well as directly down from the throttle body. Then a 90* coupler pointing directly up, staight piece of pipe and a 90 into the throttle body.
x_25 is offline  
Old 04-11-2018, 10:39 AM
  #6  
Elite Member
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Granbury, TX
Posts: 6,169
Total Cats: 655
Default

Going into the driver's side fender can work really well on an NA. Here's some picture of my DD (not the TSE kit though):

Hot Side:
https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...0/#post1252898

Cold Side:
https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...9/#post1251966
hornetball is offline  
Old 04-11-2018, 11:10 AM
  #7  
Senior Member
 
Schroedinger's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 553
Total Cats: 110
Default

^hornetball's setup is really nice. If I had known about that method when I did mine, I would have done it that way.
Schroedinger is offline  
Old 04-11-2018, 11:13 AM
  #8  
mkturbo.com
iTrader: (24)
 
shuiend's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Charleston SC
Posts: 14,389
Total Cats: 1,328
Default

Just FYI what works on one set of years won't necessarily work on other set of years. IE IC pipes are specific 90-93, 94-97, 99/00, and 01-05. The different AC and PS line layouts through out the years really throw kinks in making universal pipes. Larger swaybars and radiators and fans can also cause issues.
shuiend is offline  
Old 04-11-2018, 11:14 AM
  #9  
Tweaking Enginerd
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 983
Total Cats: 119
Default

Here are a couple of pics of a vertical outlet. Obviously, Sav's suggestions are probably the best method. The first two (erlier version) have a custom 2" bend, the third (final version) is a standard 90 alum cut short with a 90 deg coupler. I don't seem to have any handy of the hotside intercooler piping. I never liked the 180 or tight 90 on this setup, but I didn't notice any obvious performance issues.






Ted75zcar is offline  
Old 04-11-2018, 11:22 AM
  #10  
Tweaking Enginerd
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 983
Total Cats: 119
Default

This gives you an idea of what I am doing on the next version.

Ted75zcar is offline  
Old 04-11-2018, 12:11 PM
  #11  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 1,195
Total Cats: 145
Default

Originally Posted by Ted75zcar View Post
This gives you an idea of what I am doing on the next version.

what is the purpose of moving the alternator to the driver side?

and what is this flex pipe going into above the turbo?
borka is offline  
Old 04-11-2018, 12:38 PM
  #12  
Tweaking Enginerd
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 983
Total Cats: 119
Default

Originally Posted by borka View Post
what is the purpose of moving the alternator to the driver side?
Insanity?

Originally Posted by borka View Post
and what is this flex pipe going into above the turbo?
proof?

actually...




and aluminum loses ~half its strength by 600 F

Ted75zcar is offline  
Old 04-11-2018, 02:05 PM
  #13  
Newb
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 28
Total Cats: 2
Default

Jeez guys some awesome suggestions. Love all the photos. I think Savington makes the most sense from a volume reduction stand point. While I also agree with schrodinger that Hornetball sure has a clean setup. Probably easier for me to build as well. I ordered enough bends to go either way. Likely I'll aim to go for the Sav's suggestion and falling back to the routing path hornetball used if i am having any clearance issues. You all might be disappointed but I am going with alumizined mild steel as a material, mainly for ease of welding. Is brazing aluminum strong enough for this application? I guess its something that's pretty easy to change if my skillset and tool set progresses

Last edited by catalyst; 04-11-2018 at 02:56 PM.
catalyst is offline  
Old 04-11-2018, 04:07 PM
  #14  
Elite Member
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Granbury, TX
Posts: 6,169
Total Cats: 655
Default

As for aluminum brazing, it's plenty strong. I really do DD mine and have more than 70K miles with the turbo on it.

Not only is aluminum light, but it's really convenient to order the bends you need from Aluminum Pipes and similar vendors. That said, I've seen a few people use steel for their intakes -- it works.
hornetball is offline  
Old 04-11-2018, 04:23 PM
  #15  
Supporting Vendor
iTrader: (31)
 
Savington's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Sunnyvale, CA
Posts: 15,282
Total Cats: 1,998
Default

Steel works, aluminum is better in every way. Even if you can't weld it, it's still worthwhile to mock them up in aluminum and then have them welded elsewhere.
__________________
Trackspeed Engineering
High-Performance Turbo Specialists - Sunnyvale, CA - 650-701-7223 - Email us!
Originally Posted by codrus View Post
Basically I've come over to the camp of "If something is a reliability problem on the track, just ask Andrew and do what he says".
Savington is offline  
Old 04-11-2018, 06:14 PM
  #16  
Newb
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 28
Total Cats: 2
Default

yeah, the shame! I get it though, certainly a reason Aluminum is the standard. Since this is shaping into a little learning project for me i'll likely have a go at it with steel to get started. No doubt I'll want to change it 6 months out... but getting in the experience is important to me.
catalyst is offline  
Old 04-16-2018, 08:24 PM
  #17  
Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 276
Total Cats: 28
Default

Thanks for leading me here Catalyst! Mind sharing your results when complete?
Joker is offline  
Old 04-16-2018, 08:50 PM
  #18  
Newb
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 28
Total Cats: 2
Default

Sure, I'll be getting the pipe bends this week. Keep you posted. It may not be pretty, fair warning.
catalyst is offline  
Old 04-20-2018, 12:34 PM
  #19  
Junior Member
 
Sandro351's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Central Mass
Posts: 122
Total Cats: -23
Default

Originally Posted by Savington View Post
  • 90deg 2.5" to 2.5" (OEM TB) or 2.75" (Skunk2 TB) coupler into throttle body
I'm running a 120* out my skunk2 TB almost straight down, slightly towards the passenger side outside, so it clears my fans and sway bar, then a 90*, 90*, to my IC
Sandro351 is offline  
Old 04-20-2018, 04:23 PM
  #20  
Newb
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 28
Total Cats: 2
Default

Got some pipe bends and straights in and took the opportunity yesterday to workout the suggestions presented. I am not seeing any possible way to route this with the compressor outlet pointed down without major rework of the PS reservoir location and likely ac compressor removal. There is just no room. Even with the 2" pipe, it's so tight in there. Looks like most that have posted here have done modifications to accommodate this orientation of the outlet. At this point, for the hot side, looks like plan B is a go, which will be following hornetballs technique bringing behind the fender. Here is a look at the layout I'm working with. Just an update for anyone paying attention.
catalyst is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: Intercooler Piping


Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

© 2019 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.