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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 07-15-2010, 02:52 PM   #61
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Originally Posted by Pen2_the_penguin View Post
update: Apparently, to make it successful, my grandfather (master of boosting carburated V8s) said I would have to do less if I just fabricate a custom mount and intake piping that puts the carb in front of the turbo intake. He also sugested finding a marine or larger carb... discuss and I will take the idea with the most pro's than cons and make it reality!
This is how old corvairs did it, draw through carb. Interesting little motors, they also didn't use a wastegate. Boost was limited by exhaust backpressure.

It only sucks because you cant use an intercooler in that kind of setup. I personally think that a pressurized box is a better solution, but for something that small I doubt it would matter.
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Old 07-15-2010, 03:53 PM   #62
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I saw this at PRI in 2008 near the karting section
Tiny intercooler is tiny. And what the??? It's a Bell!
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Old 07-15-2010, 06:19 PM   #63
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Originally Posted by Jeff_Ciesielski View Post
This is how old corvairs did it, draw through carb. Interesting little motors, they also didn't use a wastegate. Boost was limited by exhaust backpressure.

It only sucks because you cant use an intercooler in that kind of setup. I personally think that a pressurized box is a better solution, but for something that small I doubt it would matter.
so, when its mounted before the turbo, the pro is that it uses the turbo suction to pull more fuel? I found a small walbro carb where I work that seems to have a large open port that plumbs from and bypasses the choke side to the float area of the carb. Say I mount the carb after the turbo, would boost pressurize the float canister and push more fuel through the main jet? I dont know alot about carbs... its just that if I dont have to fabricate a pressurized fuel tank, and only have to fabricate a oil pump thats fine for me.
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Old 07-16-2010, 11:41 AM   #64
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Your theory is sound. You want the bowl pressure to = Air source/flow pressure.
Paxton pressured the whole carb. They built a box around it at the stock v8 location. Have not experienced one but have been told Leaks where a pain.
Ram air on bikes used a similar bowl pressureized design. (early Kawi ZX-11) They vented the bowl into the ram air pressure area. Be aware it is not linear and changes the carb tuning a bit. Also, if you pressure the vents and not the whole carb it can leak out the throttle plates. So must be kept within acceptance. Dangereous leakage as it is a properly mixed ratio wanting to light off.
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Old 07-17-2010, 12:58 AM   #65
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I still want to know what the turbo oiling solution would be. I still have a GT1544 lying around and a lawn mower dying for boost, but don't know of a good oiling solution for a sleevebearing turbo. I assume you'll need like 15psi minimum oil pressure, that's a complete guess. A closed loop oiling system (seperate from the briggs which don't have oil pressure I don't think) would be an idea but I don't know if a powersteering pump would work. Probably. Hmm. If you're going to run a belt/pulley to a powersteering pump you might as well just use an emissions airpump from an 80's-90's american v8 as a supercharger and don't worry about an oil pressure solution.
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Old 07-17-2010, 12:34 PM   #66
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I support this win.
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Old 07-17-2010, 06:25 PM   #67
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******* awesomeness
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Old 07-20-2010, 12:48 PM   #68
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Am I the only one who would be paranoid as **** with a turbo whizzing away at 30,000 rpm a couple feet from my head?

This thread owns.
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Old 07-20-2010, 06:03 PM   #69
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i have made mock setups of both ideas... they were hideous looking since it was kludged up from trash... i took no pics.


I found out that the carburator mounted on the turbo is a better solution to my small engine dilema. Since with a pressurized gas tank kept the fuel flow constant, it never stopped, so it puffed huge amounts of black smoke on idle.

I mocked up the pressurized gas tank out of an old oil bottle, bicycle tube air valve installed in the cap, and a hose feed tapped to the bottom of the bottle. filled half with fuel and pumped the bottle to 2psi, fed too much fuel to the small engine.


However, the horsepower increase is pretty rad. I was burning rubber with me putting all my weight on the rear... I used to only make rubber smoke by leaning toward the front or not being on the kart at all.


I mocked up pre-carb turbo setup using a spray can cap, random bits of pvc piping and angle pieces, and a rubber coupler. I drilled the bolts through the plastic spray can cap, dremeled a hole as big as the carb throttle plate, and bolted the carb to the top side of the lid. I took the coupler and slipped it over the remainer of the plastic lid then clamped it to the turbo inlet. I took the PVC pipe and shoved it into the intake part of the engine head, making it a snug fit. Then pieced it to the turbo outlet. Ugly as sin, and no condition to drive with it.

This setup proved to be the better solution, all I need to do is tap the main jet a bigger diameter hole and the turbo vacuum does the rest. It screamed, and I creamed.

Im so stoked, the next thing to do is buy some cheap, thin, steel piping, and fabricate a charge pipe that bolts to the intake side of the head, and couples to the turbo. Then fabricate a carb mount couplered to the turbo intake. Profit.


edit: I have also been spraying Justice Brothers to lubricate the turbo every 2 mins... this will be addressed after.
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Old 07-30-2010, 12:16 AM   #70
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Okay, so I had some spare time, and rigged up a stronger, yet hoopdier setup. It runs, just needs some carb adjustment and some extra detail.

This is what I have planned:

-2 fuel pumps that run under crankcase vacuum pressure. Found these at work, and they seem to pull enough oil to lubricate the turbo. It doesn't have a pressure rating, or a gallon rating, but I whitnessed it pull oil from a bottle and pour it back into the same container with ease from a 3hp lawn mower engine, and it does pull fuel, like its supposed to. These fuel pumps are commonly found on outboard motors, and lawn tractors.

-I installed a fuel filter, because it needed one.

-I need real brakes. Any suggestions for a cheap, easy setup for go-kart brakes? I was thinking of buying a used, retarded "monkey" bike and using the drum brake off that.

-I used some hose clamps and couplers off my dismantled car, but I need to fabricate a fitted charge pipe.

Here is some redneck ****.

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Yes, thats a "El Pato" hot sauce can with electrical tape for a gasket. It will make due.


Mean while, I finally decided to pick-up a working engine to install so I can enjoy the rest of summer.
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This is the third engine. *sigh*
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Old 07-30-2010, 12:31 AM   #71
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Aren't you int he Navy or the Air Force or something? How the hell do you find time to do all this, I know being in the Army I sure wouldn't be able to find the time to dedicate to this on top of building a miata.
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Old 07-30-2010, 12:56 AM   #72
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Originally Posted by KPLAFIN View Post
Aren't you int he Navy or the Air Force or something? How the hell do you find time to do all this, I know being in the Army I sure wouldn't be able to find the time to dedicate to this on top of building a miata.
lolz, I really dont have time... just speed.


I am no longer active, I switched over to the reserves so I can finish school.

I still dont have time, since I normally work in the mornings from 9-1, school from 2-5 every other day, and a working wifey and kiddie to feed. But I am taking the summer off of school, so I have some extra time. Still broke tho.


edit: I also forgot my BMW K75 fix-up project as well, got that running today too. Just needs a new battery and mirrors.
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Old 07-30-2010, 01:03 AM   #73
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Motorcycle calipers are relatively cheap, all you need is a rear brake for backyard karting. I don't know what you have for an axle, looks to be a 1 wheel drive.

1. slot axle for key to match a rotor
2. make a bracket for the caliper
3. Find a master cylinder, mount it
4. bend some metal rod for brake pedal and linkage
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Old 07-30-2010, 02:07 AM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboTim View Post
I still want to know what the turbo oiling solution would be. I still have a GT1544 lying around and a lawn mower dying for boost, but don't know of a good oiling solution for a sleevebearing turbo. I assume you'll need like 15psi minimum oil pressure, that's a complete guess. A closed loop oiling system (seperate from the briggs which don't have oil pressure I don't think) would be an idea but I don't know if a powersteering pump would work. Probably. Hmm. If you're going to run a belt/pulley to a powersteering pump you might as well just use an emissions airpump from an 80's-90's american v8 as a supercharger and don't worry about an oil pressure solution.

If you can run a small cogs belt somewhere, you can run a pump designed as a fertilizer transfer pump to move the oil. Glacierdiesel uses them on their mechanical fuel pump systems.
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Old 07-30-2010, 03:38 AM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bond View Post
Motorcycle calipers are relatively cheap, all you need is a rear brake for backyard karting. I don't know what you have for an axle, looks to be a 1 wheel drive.

1. slot axle for key to match a rotor
2. make a bracket for the caliper
3. Find a master cylinder, mount it
4. bend some metal rod for brake pedal and linkage

I have a brake pedal, but the orginal frame was built when I was 10... I added on the extra rear length for the current massive engine.

If you haven't noticed, my lame brake is that bent steel plate in front of the wheel. It worked great when it was powered by a 4hp engine... but this is a 9.5hp engine that I got from my grandfather (who has a seemingly endless supply of small engines...) that came with a clutch, and the old "brake" doesnt stop ****. I was wondering though, can I put something like a drum brake band around my clutch as a clutch brake? Something like this (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Minib...QptZGoQ5fKarts) around my clutch? I also found simple calipers that can just slip over the sprocket, but the clearance between my wheel and the sprocket is slim... So can I just put a band around my clutch?
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Old 08-01-2010, 04:14 AM   #76
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Lesson learned today: let flooded carburators vent itself... instead of opening the throttle wide open while trying to keep starting.

The turbo project went up in flames this morning.... literally.

Luckly, I was able to put the flame out before it caused damage to the engine and kart itself... the carb was not so lucky. It was heavily flooded while trying to adjust the carb at the right points... then one good pull it backfired all the way through the plastic charge pipe and caught the carb on fire. It melted the fuel line... thats when the fun started. Thankfully, I was able to grab the extinguisher out of the miata and put it out before it got really really bad.


I got another carb, and I have to weld a charge pipe instead of the plastic one... it failed miserably. Also, I need to get an air cleaner on this bitch, so this wont happen again. It really caught the dripping fuel outside the carb that was pouring out the flood line, if I had a filter, it would have stopped it.


I will continue. The turbo is fine.
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Old 08-01-2010, 04:19 AM   #77
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Oh, and my El Pato can carb mount suvived. lolz
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Old 09-07-2010, 05:51 AM   #78
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its been a while, since I shown any progress with this, because the miata is now top on my project list again. The go-kart does run, and it is successfully turbo'ed. I fixed the kinks by adding an old quad carburator, universal coolant piping for a charge pipe, and an air cleaner w/ steel screen to prevent any fires again. I will get video of it when I get the brakes installed, since its a bat out of hell.

However, with the car almost finished, my grandfather had a deep dark secret he kept from me... While I was working on this turbo kart, he remembered that back in 95', he started to build a monster of a mini trike, made from a cut up three-wheeler and a snowmobile motor. He now passes the unfinished project to me.

This is it... tell me, what should I do with it?
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My grandfather told me it needs a sprocket w/chain, seat (obviously), starter (since I refuse to pull start that bitch), and fuel tank (that white tank cover is just to cover the raw steel tubing from the front fork), exhaust (since its small pipe is aimed directly at the riders head), and a brake cable.

The motor is from an old late 50's snowmobile, it has around 40-50hp stock. The whole thing right now weighs at only 180lbs.
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Old 04-12-2011, 02:11 AM   #79
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MY LONG AWAITED UPDATE

So I started to continue my project that was set aside for over a year... and now upgrades are being made after the fire incident, this is the list of upgrades I made so far:

-New charge piping
-Downpipe added
-New carburetor off big Honda E6500 generator
-Oil feed system


it fires up and spools, but doest stay on for long, I have to work on the carb tuning. Also, the intake piping may be too long with the combination of the charge piping.

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With downpipe
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More to come tomorrow, and hopefully a video
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Old 04-12-2011, 02:17 AM   #80
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This is getting interesting
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