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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

ITT: We discuss electronic wastegate ideas

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Old Oct 7, 2016 | 01:13 PM
  #41  
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So dumping boost instead of bypassing exhaust? Sounds like a good way to overspin the turbo. Send me a turbo speed sensor with it and I'll try.
Old Oct 7, 2016 | 01:18 PM
  #42  
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Actually, that's a good point. Probably need to disregard
Old Oct 7, 2016 | 04:54 PM
  #43  
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someone on our MT FB page (that doesnt understand electronics whatsoever) is trying this...

Old Oct 7, 2016 | 09:22 PM
  #44  
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But why... I mean I guess he demonstrated that the actuator isn't stuck? /Sigh

I should message him and ask him to send to to me, and in return I'll tell him how it works, but not return it...
Old Oct 7, 2016 | 09:35 PM
  #45  
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You haven't seen much from tech salvager have you. There's a reason he's banned here.
Old Oct 10, 2016 | 11:45 PM
  #46  
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We'll that's a little better... but I mean, wow.
Old Oct 11, 2016 | 08:11 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by aidandj
You haven't seen much from tech salvager have you. There's a reason he's banned here.
wait is that tech? all his posts make so much sense now!
Old Oct 11, 2016 | 08:11 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by gesso
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=faT16BhHR9Y

We'll that's a little better... but I mean, wow.
is it?
Old Oct 11, 2016 | 08:41 AM
  #49  
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See username
Old Oct 11, 2016 | 01:04 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by aidandj
See username
Seriously, that was the first thing I noticed.
Old Oct 14, 2016 | 06:38 PM
  #51  
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I attempted this on my 1.6 turbo build. Used the mahle electronic wastegate shown above.

Mahle 03F145725G
Found on any of the 1.2 TSI VAAG engines, engine codes CBZA and CBZB, since about 2012

If you pull one from the junkyard, dont make the same mistake as i did and make sure you get one with the connector. The wiring colours seem to differ between engines but the connector is a 6 pin connector with only 5 pins populated.


2 of the pins connect internally directly to the motor. The other 3 are 5v, 0v, signal out. Its a hall sensor inside so nothing too difficult to deal with there.

It needs an H-bridge driver capable of "some" amps to drive the motor. I never got my setup making boost with the actuator attached but i cant imagine it takes more than about 5 amps at 12v to hold down the wastegate flapper under boost

Its worth noting that the linkage arm coming out of the actuator is not constrained linearly so it can be bolted directly to the wastegate arm if mounted in the right plane. The total travel of the linkage is (from memory) about 10mm.



Dont make the intermediate arm between the linkage and wastegate like i did in that pic ^^^. The arm is already designed to follow the arc of the wastegate arm so making extra linkages makes it just tweak about rather than actually operate the wastegate.

Unfortunately this car met its end on its first outing on track running a normal wategate actuator and i haven't turned my attention to it since. So i have zero data on how well it works, in practice, let alone any data on spool ect.

Not that that data would have been any use, because its a 1.6 anyway. This build was in progress way before i had done any reading here, but im now dropping my rods-only VVT lump in this weekend so id like to get this ball rolling again soon.

Last edited by sparkybean; Oct 15, 2016 at 08:49 AM.
Old Oct 25, 2023 | 10:49 AM
  #52  
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Hey Forum,

I know its an old thread but i though it would be worth re-visiting. Has anybody implemented a working electric actuator-based wastegate control as discussed in this thread? A lot of European cars (BMW,MB,VW) are now using electric-servo driven wastegates. Some of those can be had for $70. Does anybody have a working system in their car and could chime in on MS3 control implementation using the PWM table?
Old Jan 8, 2024 | 03:03 PM
  #53  
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https://www.full-race.com/garrett-g2...conversion-kit
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