JB weld application?
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So, I'm sitting in bed thinking about my turbo project while trying to sleep. I'm basically done, except for the install. I don't, however, have all those little pieces that go into the intake track (GM IAT bung, BOV bung, idle control valve thing on the TB). It hit me that I could JB weld all the bungs and a hose barb thing for the idle control valve in place for the stuff.
Now, apart from being a cheap, ghetto-rigged solution, would this work? For starters, I'm only planning on running 7ish psi for ~150-60ish rwhp from a fleabay 2554. Since JB weld is supposed to hold up to 600*, it should be fine on the temperature front, but will it hold 7 pounds of pressure?
Car only sees street use, and it's a DD so it's not abused.
I'm going with the cheap solution here, if need be I'm just going to take it to a local shop and have them weld all that **** up properly for me. But if I can temporarily be cheap while I finish up, I don't see why not.
Now, apart from being a cheap, ghetto-rigged solution, would this work? For starters, I'm only planning on running 7ish psi for ~150-60ish rwhp from a fleabay 2554. Since JB weld is supposed to hold up to 600*, it should be fine on the temperature front, but will it hold 7 pounds of pressure?
Car only sees street use, and it's a DD so it's not abused.
I'm going with the cheap solution here, if need be I'm just going to take it to a local shop and have them weld all that **** up properly for me. But if I can temporarily be cheap while I finish up, I don't see why not.
I'd advise against it. I tried this with the IAT bung. Long story short it didn't work at all.
For the IAT, drill and tap the cold side intercooler tank. For the Idle valve and BOV on the throttle body pipe, get it welded on properly. Dont cheap out on this part.
For the IAT, drill and tap the cold side intercooler tank. For the Idle valve and BOV on the throttle body pipe, get it welded on properly. Dont cheap out on this part.
I used JB weld on by GM sensor bung and it held all the way up to 18-21 lbs. It actually just began to crack last weekend. And now has made even a bigger problem since I have to redo the entire section of piping.
I'm going to disagree with everyone in this thread. I love JB weld. I used it on my IAC pipe:

And I plan to use it on the IAC valve itself coming up shortly. Much like anything, it all comes down to application. If you thoroughly clean and rough up the surface, and you give it enough to bite on, you will never have a problem.
And I plan to use it on the IAC valve itself coming up shortly. Much like anything, it all comes down to application. If you thoroughly clean and rough up the surface, and you give it enough to bite on, you will never have a problem.
My AIT bung has been JB Welded for over 4 years... doesn't mean I support the idea either.
I fixed a damned radiator tank with JB once and used it that way for about 2 weeks, just putting some water in before each drive. Its crap, but effective crap none the less.
The trick is to put whatever is being secured on there in really tight in the first place. Then finish the job with the JB.
The trick is to put whatever is being secured on there in really tight in the first place. Then finish the job with the JB.
You might try actually asking a welder how much he wants to do it right before you use JB weld. I was thinking along the same lines when I was at that stage but he only wanted 30 to do all three (idle valve pipe, iat bung, and BOV flange) so thats what I did. Depends on the welder of course but they can be cheaper than you think for simple **** like this.
back on topic though, count me in for "it would hold fine". With proper prep work that stuff can truly work wonders.....
back on topic though, count me in for "it would hold fine". With proper prep work that stuff can truly work wonders.....
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