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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 03-26-2008, 02:06 PM   #41
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Here's the oil flow video at idle, warm. Looks like plenty of oil to me. Sam- what'd yours look like? Anybody else?
Mine just pissed a steady stream, like what you see out of your refrigerator door water dispensor, only oily smooth. It pissed 2 cups in about 5seconds cold when I tested it with the milk jug.

I can't test the flow rate with the rivet cause it won't stay in place... but the rivet is about 1/3 the size of the -4an line. I run 20w50 in the winter and 10w30 in the summer... never had an issue with the rivet.

I also have a near vertical oil drain with -10an line and the drain entering the oil-pan well above the oil level in the pan. I run a 323GTX pcv valve and the breather line routed directly to my intake (soon to be catch-can to humor fourwheels and icantdo55). I don't burn oil and have never had a pressurization/drain/seal problem.
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Old 03-26-2008, 02:13 PM   #42
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dammit - wtf? uploading again... will fix link when it's up

There is some fore/aft movement, but it's not even visually noticeable. The blade contour from the wear fits the compressor contour almost perfectly if the shaft is pushed all the way to the limit of its tolerance. Based on my memory of the side-to-side play when I got it, it looks to be about double.

I think mine would **** similar in that time w/o the restrictor.
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Old 03-26-2008, 02:23 PM   #43
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sam, we are talking about the flow after the turbo, out the drain line...not the feed itself.
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Old 03-26-2008, 04:01 PM   #44
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I run 20w50 in the winter and 10w30 in the summer...
I hope that is bass ackwards?
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Old 03-26-2008, 04:15 PM   #45
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yah for rizzle.
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Old 03-26-2008, 05:33 PM   #46
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Still don't have an answer. Would like to have one before I install another turbo. It looks to be like something went through the turbine from the blade damage. But what? And if it did, you'd think there would be more evidence. Visual inspection showed no marks on the piston tops, compression check produced similar numbers as 1k miles ago, plugs were perfect and it runs fine.

So I'll go ahead and take apart the center section, but I don't think I'll find anything but minor bearing wear given how well it spins.

Turbo as removed - featuring super cool oil drain pipe - can you name that tube?

Carnage:

perfect plugs:

rockin' the turbine blocking plate

And here's a manual spin job before disassembly:

fahk
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Old 03-26-2008, 05:52 PM   #47
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you and paul are in the cool turbine eaters club....
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Old 03-26-2008, 05:53 PM   #48
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i guess take it apart and keep looking for other damaged parts, also does the housing show any wear damage from the blages rubbing?
what about the exhaust side? whats it look like?

thats gotta be the heater return line...
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Old 03-26-2008, 06:01 PM   #49
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Have you inspected the inside of the manifold? Maybe slag from a weld?

Either way it sucks donkey *****. :( Upgrade?
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Old 03-26-2008, 06:06 PM   #50
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Yes- heater return tube. I didn't pull the turbine off because I needed the car on the ground - and unbolting that turbine would be a bitch. I could downgrade and go for a chinacharger, so when it blows up it'll hurt less. Or just watch ebay for a reasonable used name brand, or see if TToys will sell me something w/o housing for less. I just sold a bunch of parts to buy "new" stuff - didn't plan on a new turbo tho.
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Old 03-26-2008, 06:56 PM   #51
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there is a co. here in charlotte that can sell parts only
give them a call, i dont know what their pricing is on cartridges/wheels/bearings is
i know they give 1 year warranties if they rebuild the turbo for you
ill try to find them online for you
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Old 03-28-2008, 04:07 PM   #52
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I've opted to buy an assembly. The price is worth the time saved on my part. I'll save my core for a rebuild later.

Just went driving around and I'm still trying figure out what's cool about normally aspirated power. Of course I've never tuned any of these zones either.
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Old 03-28-2008, 04:11 PM   #53
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haha. heard dat.
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Old 03-28-2008, 04:35 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m2cupcar View Post
I've opted to buy an assembly. The price is worth the time saved on my part. I'll save my core for a rebuild later.

Just went driving around and I'm still trying figure out what's cool about normally aspirated power. Of course I've never tuned any of these zones either.
tune em! that's spool country.
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Old 06-12-2008, 11:03 AM   #55
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The new turbo (t3/t4 48AR stage3 60AR 50trim) is installed and running w/o a restricter. I have no signs of leaking seals and have made numerous boosted runs covering full rpm range in 4th gear.
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Old 06-12-2008, 01:12 PM   #56
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funny, im going from a .065" to .040" this weekend.
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Old 06-12-2008, 02:38 PM   #57
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why? leaking?
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Old 06-12-2008, 03:37 PM   #58
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I ran -4 and no restrictor on my car, never had a problem. Journal Bearing MHI turbo..
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Old 06-12-2008, 03:44 PM   #59
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why? leaking?

Without the breather line in the intake pipe it was at idle, slightly.

With the breather line in the intake I'm still getting a little past the exhaust seal if i held it in high rpms for a sustained period and them let go and let it draw a shitload of vacuum. I get a little puff of smoke. I seem to have any blow-by or oil consumption, so my only guess is I'm still getting just a little too much volume in there.....I also don't like the idea of it being right on the turbo itself, almost like a jet...I wanted to try to put it before a 90*, so it at least has to deflect down into the CHRA.

If i was really smart, I'd just put together a -3AN line. I've always had issues like this since day one back in '05.
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Old 06-12-2008, 03:54 PM   #60
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I've got a 90* elbow and -3 line. Hmmm.
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