JR Intercooler
#4
any idea why, am I thinking right or wrong but it seems that the air/water type ic would be a bit more efficient depending on water temp in the cooler. The JR ic being the inline type seems like it would be relatively efficient at low boost levels, but I guess the ambient air temp could be lower than the ic water temp, thus helping the air to air ic gain ovr the JR type. Heck I'm just flappin I don't know but I'm looking at both types. My kit is a regular greddy type. I'm not looking for 300 horse. I have to drive mine every day so reliability is a major concern. thanks.
#5
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I don't know why, I just think this is the funniest quote. I guess because it is so short and 200 percent right on spot with Jackson Racing and the **** they churn out...
Where companies like Begi and Flyin Miata strive to make the best products with further expandability, Jackson Racing is happy with their mediocrity.. Their kits are okay, but they seldom do they leave room for those of us who want to push more power. The M45 works just fine for those wanting a moderate boost in power, but spin it past 6 psi and it is very inefficient, unless u wanna fry eggs on the outlet manifold
If your going air-to-water intercooler, your biggest enemy is going to be fighting thermal inefficiency; the coolant just wants to get hotter and hotter. (You don't want the coolant to heat soak, you want the heat to be dissipated quickly) Now the most common thing most people tend to want to replace if they are having heat soak probs with the air-water intercooler is the intercooler itself. I know this because I ran an air-water setup on my M45 at one time.
For a successful air-water intercooler setup, I believe the most important aspects are as followed from most important to least important.
1. Size and efficiency of the heat exchanger. Most important.
2. Quantity of coolant that is in circulation, size of reservoir.
3. Dilution of coolant. (try an 80 water/20 coolant)
4. Power of electric water pump.
5. Size of the actual barrel type intercooler.
I betcha for a 220 rwhp turbocharged Miata, a PWR 4x6 barrel type intercooler would do just fine, especially on the street. The biggest link is the heat exchanger and that is where the money makes a difference... ( I have heard of some people using transmission cooler and with great success) It is rarely seen that people run air/water intercoolers in turbocharged applications, mainly because throttled volume and throttle response really isn't an issue with internal compression style superchargers, exhaust driven or belt driven. However, on positive displacement eaton-roots style supercharged engines, it is good idea to keep your throttle volume as compact as possible, which is why air/water intercoolers work so well with them. They do the same job without the complex charge pipes. (my 97 M45 air/water intercooler's charge piping consisted of 4 rubber couplers, 2 90 degree elbows, and the intercooler itself.)
With that said, I can't really say anything bad about the air/water intercooled setups. It's all about building it right. Use an excellent heat exchanger with plenty of surface area, have an independant reservoir with 80/20 diluted coolant, and use a strong enough electric water pump, like the Bosch that is supplied with 04/05 Mustang Cobras.
Where companies like Begi and Flyin Miata strive to make the best products with further expandability, Jackson Racing is happy with their mediocrity.. Their kits are okay, but they seldom do they leave room for those of us who want to push more power. The M45 works just fine for those wanting a moderate boost in power, but spin it past 6 psi and it is very inefficient, unless u wanna fry eggs on the outlet manifold
If your going air-to-water intercooler, your biggest enemy is going to be fighting thermal inefficiency; the coolant just wants to get hotter and hotter. (You don't want the coolant to heat soak, you want the heat to be dissipated quickly) Now the most common thing most people tend to want to replace if they are having heat soak probs with the air-water intercooler is the intercooler itself. I know this because I ran an air-water setup on my M45 at one time.
For a successful air-water intercooler setup, I believe the most important aspects are as followed from most important to least important.
1. Size and efficiency of the heat exchanger. Most important.
2. Quantity of coolant that is in circulation, size of reservoir.
3. Dilution of coolant. (try an 80 water/20 coolant)
4. Power of electric water pump.
5. Size of the actual barrel type intercooler.
I betcha for a 220 rwhp turbocharged Miata, a PWR 4x6 barrel type intercooler would do just fine, especially on the street. The biggest link is the heat exchanger and that is where the money makes a difference... ( I have heard of some people using transmission cooler and with great success) It is rarely seen that people run air/water intercoolers in turbocharged applications, mainly because throttled volume and throttle response really isn't an issue with internal compression style superchargers, exhaust driven or belt driven. However, on positive displacement eaton-roots style supercharged engines, it is good idea to keep your throttle volume as compact as possible, which is why air/water intercoolers work so well with them. They do the same job without the complex charge pipes. (my 97 M45 air/water intercooler's charge piping consisted of 4 rubber couplers, 2 90 degree elbows, and the intercooler itself.)
With that said, I can't really say anything bad about the air/water intercooled setups. It's all about building it right. Use an excellent heat exchanger with plenty of surface area, have an independant reservoir with 80/20 diluted coolant, and use a strong enough electric water pump, like the Bosch that is supplied with 04/05 Mustang Cobras.
Last edited by Cody Strife; 05-12-2009 at 11:29 PM.
#6
any idea why, am I thinking right or wrong but it seems that the air/water type ic would be a bit more efficient depending on water temp in the cooler. The JR ic being the inline type seems like it would be relatively efficient at low boost levels, but I guess the ambient air temp could be lower than the ic water temp, thus helping the air to air ic gain ovr the JR type. Heck I'm just flappin I don't know but I'm looking at both types. My kit is a regular greddy type. I'm not looking for 300 horse. I have to drive mine every day so reliability is a major concern. thanks.
Besides, that JR intercooler sits right behind the radiator.
#7
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I'm having trouble understanding why an A/W IC would be better for our setups. The charge volume isn't a huge deal, so cutting it down isn't a high priority, and with the added complexity of the plumbing, I would really like to know the benefits.
#8
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With that type, it shouldn't really matter as the heat exchanger will mount in front of the radiator anywayz. You know it is whatever, if you got a inline-type air/water intercooler for a very affordable price, I would just say go ahead and try it. It's really not that big of a deal, and if someone can run the oil feed, oil drain, and water lines for their turbocharger, than the plumbing is a breeze. I know this firsthand. On the 1997 Miata's their is a very handy little place you can mount your water reservoir. It is on the front driver side where the windshield wiper fluid container goes if your car has ABS. I don't know the volume of that particular windshield wiper container, but you could use one of those for very factory look. Just add two 3/4 PVC barbs for your coolant inlet and outlet...
Last edited by Cody Strife; 05-13-2009 at 01:05 PM.
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