HI sorry for the dumb question, but I was re-reading maximum boost today and I was looking @ the last chapter "miata turbo install". I was looking @ the part where he filled the compressor reservoir with aircraft turbine oil...but he pulled off a small plug, grommet, or bolt from the compressor side and filled it with 120 cc of oil. Was I supposed to do this, sorry I am new, I thought the only oil was supposed to run through the middle "feed & return lines". Please lmk if I was supposed to fill it. I don't see any of the plugs like on the turbocharger in the book. Thanks for the help...here is a new picture, sorry I still need to reroute stuff. Today was just an easy day of replacing the VC gasket and painting it. http://img522.imageshack.us/img522/4...1133xi3.th.jpg

looks good but i see no WI nozzle I hioe you get it all together soon. :bigtu:

6psi on 330cc injectors and a stock ECU, and now you have oil and smoke from the tailpipe... I really hope you need an oil feed restrictor and not a new motor.

thanks, yah the WI nozzle is a little bit higher than the BOV, I will try to get some pictures after work.

Savington, my motor runs fine, I haven't got to do a leakdown or compression test after installation, but honestly it is pushing great still. Also I am runing the stock injectors now and hardly get any lag, mind you this is before WI. I am only pushing approximately 4 psi, this is due to the fact that I have a huge BOV leak. This should be resolved by a buddy of mine getting me a TT BOV. I do beleive it is a restrictor. After the first day or two the blue smoke stopped. Sometime but very rarely I will get some smoke above the turbo, "I believe it is the seal by DP". I plan on doing a rebuild soon. Thanks for all your help guys... but can anyone answer my question about filling the compressor reservoir with aircraft turbine...thank you

That was a very special turbo called the Aerodyne... It has gone the way of the dinosaur. Just make sure you've primed the oil fed center section with a bit of motor oil and life will be just cherry.

http://www.aerocharger.com/
Version 2.0 is out.

Thanks, thats what I was thinking. LOL it had a crazy compressor look. :)
Going to get MS...is anyone selling one used... I WTB

CAS
MS "going on 99, with 330's on a t25, but I could always remap"
Boomslang.

If you have any of the following or see any good deals please lmk. I think I will just buy the MS off of the 2 mods who are selling them unless I can get one used. Thanks guys...

I think my compressor blades are hitting the walls, I am getting a clicking noise out of my turbine area...I will check it later today after work, would it be better just to find a new t25 or rebuild it if the fins are bent?

Compressor wheels aren't cheap but you might be able to source one. Rebuild kit and new compressor wheel will cost about as much as I usually find good used T25s for. ($100-150)
What are the specs on your turbo, i might have something for you.

I have no idea, I was told it was a t25, and it looks like all the t25's I have seen, but as for what kind I am unsure. I don't know if its off a DSM or Volvo or anything...I will try to get some better pictures today "see top of this page for a picture you can kind of see it". I believe it bolts up to the manifold with two studs/nut & two bolts. The DP connects to the the turbo via a three bolt triangular flange that can rotate & pushed the DP to match the port. I wish I knew more, I have to drive it home from work today and I will try to get some pictures.

a DSM t25 isnt going to have nearly the capabilities of a Nissan T25

I will look into that if I need a new turbo, but can you tell which one it is from the picture?

From the picture i can't tell. Garrett T25s standard flange is a square 4 bolt inlet with 5 bolt outlet. The mitsu ones have a round port inlet i believe that has a 4 bolt pattern as well. The outlet might also be different. A 3 bolt inlet tells me it might be a WRX turbo.

Sorry for my terms if they are wrong, I am still getting used to it. But I believe I am trying to say that the inlet flange is a t25 and the Turbine housing to DP is a flange is a triangular that holds a perfectly cylindrical pipe to the housing. Damn I cannot find a similar picture online, I get off work in about an hour and I will try to post pictures tonight. Thanks:)

hey, if you are ever around west hollywood, stop by and ill help you with this install

oh i didnt see the picture. pretty sure thats a Nissan. A DSM turbo won't be interchangeable.

Sounds awesome, I only live approximately 20 minutes away with no traffic.

In regards to the outlet I am officially retarded...I never really looked at it until today. It is a normal 5 bolt outlet but it has an adapter to connect to a three bolt pipe. here is a picture.
http://img186.imageshack.us/img186/5...1571oc0.th.jpg
As you can see the three bolt crap mounts up to a five bolt flange. I don't know if this is normal but I haven't see it before. Anyways I am getting a weird noise when I drive the car...the turbo makes a slight screeching grinding noise. I don't know if it is the blades hitting the housing because shaft play seemed minimal. After a while "approximately 15 minutes of driving it went away"...I will try to get a video clip of it.:)thanks

If the turbo is screeching your blades are hitting the housing which is never good.
That is the smallest picture you could have possibly uploaded. It looks like a common adapter, nothing special. Also looks like a HKS manifold which means it's a standard T25. That turbo might still be usuable, it just won't be quite as efficient. You could rebuild it for around $50-80 with a kit from gpopshop.com. Or have them rebuild it. Or buy another used turbo.

I checked the blades & they look fine...after about 10 minutes of driving this morning it went away. I purchased a rebuild kit last night and plan to do it for the weekend. Can anyone reccommend a site that has t25 rebuilding specs. I have found a few, but can anyone source a very valid rebuild page...thank you:)

Look in the archives on this forum. There is a How to rebuild a T25 and how to rebuild a T3. Between those two writeups you should be able to figure it out.

there was a how to rebuild a 16g to but i think you need to visit my Cardomain site for that now :p

Awesome thanks guys...I will read up on it

I ended up buying a rebuild kit and it should be here sometime this weekend or early next week. Also I purchased a flange for the outlet becuase I want a custom DP to eliminate the slight leak I have from the EGR, plus its a waste to have the long stem coming out of my existing DP going to nowhere. How much would you pay to have a normaly exhaust shop fab up a 2.5 inch downpipe all the way to the Cat? I am thinking along the lines of 100 dollars does that sound about right? Also does anyone know where I can find a 2 bar MAP sesnor, I still cannot use my WI yet. :crx:

$100 is on the cheap side. $200 is more like it. I bet my local guy would do $100 though. So you might make out easy.

Yah its awesome when you have a guy :). I have a little shop right around the corner, they welded my EGR pretty nicely for only 5 dollars...Good people:)

Update:
Just got a great new t25 "nissan one IIRC it has the 3 bolt compressor outlet". I hooked everything up yesterday and what a difference. I took it out for a ride, but on the way out I noticed a oil leak from the feed inlet side. So since I was in the street I drove it approximately 1,000 feet and only felt 2 pis of boost. What a difference a working turbo makes, it actually felt better then my old one @ 6 psi. Anyways I made a U-turn and came back home "I was only out for approximately 20 seconds". I wasn't able to fix the leak because it was 11:30pm so I just left the car @ home and carpooled today. I will have updates regarding the performance later after I fix the leak. Also I am going to save up for MS now and start using my WI utilizing the MS 2.5 map. Thanks for all the help.

why are you quoting yourself?

sorry just trying to explain what is going on with the build...
:fm: LOL @ this smiley

I got everything working yesterday, but I only seem to be hitting 3.5-4 psi around 5K. I don't think the gauge is loose or anything. I have the wastegate tight and I sprayed all my chargepiping with Brake cleaner, but found no leaks. Could there be something else contributing to low boost? After driving the car for approximately 10 minutes my idle drops a bit when I come to a stop but then rises again, is this due to running rich? Thanks everyone.

Got everything running good, boost (only 4.5-5 psi for some reason) is hitting good but I have a few more problems.
My idle is fine during warm-up but when I start hitting boost after approximately 10 minutes of previous driving my idle gets really messed up. Sometimes it drops to approximately 300-500 rpm and will fluctuate...also it can sometimes go as high as 1,600 with fluctuation as well. I am getting a P0172 code "rich, but I can reset that with my scangauge". Lastly I have a slight oil leak from the return line @ the turbo, but I think it could be just a little to close to the manifold, heating up, expanding hte hose and letting small amounts of oil out. I know the oil line problem is just a bad hose or too close to the manifold, but are the other two problems normal? I searched a lot of threads for the idle but did not find any real fixes. I think this is due to my management, but can anyone help? I plan to go with MS as soon as I get the cash. Thanks

You have the stock injectors in it now or those other ones? If they're not stock then there is no fix. Where is your IAT sensor located? You're just running the stock ECU right?

I am running my stock ECU and injectors...My IAT sensor is located in the my intake piping approximately 6 inches from the compressor wheel...should this be moved into the charge piping?

Your iat should be fine there, i wouldn't bother. I ran my car for like 8 months with the IAT just laying in the engine bay. I was running intercooled though.

I too am running a FMIC...yah the idle is the only hard part to deal with, the code I can just delete with my scangauge. I think it is probably all management issues and not a bad sensor or anything. I am trying to save up for MS right & a CAS. Also cjernigan you sell a boomslang harness for MS correct? Please PM if so...thanks :)

It's really common for IAC valves to die on 99s, just like it's common for coil packs to die on them. Next time it starts going crazy like that unplug your IAC valve while it's running to see what happens.

gotcha,

I think my recirulating BOV into the intake ducting may be an issue...I don't believe it makes a complete seal so some air could be escaping...I will try both today...thanks:bowdown:

If your idle is surging like that you likely have a vacuum leak. So a leaking BOV would definitely be a possible cause.

is the TT BOV leaking on you too ryan?

Shouldn't my stock Audi BOV leak @ idle? I updated teh piping to mandrel bends...it is completely sealed except for the filter of course, but the problem still exist. I think it may be a IAC issue which I will clean today. Do I need a PCV on the breather line to the intake? Thanks

You need a PCV installed on the line going from the valve cover to the intake manifold, not on the driver side.
Your BOV might be leaking, listen to see if you can hear it.

I have that PCV, just wondering if I needed to do one after. I know for a fact that my BOV is leaking @ idle...isn't it supposed to? The BOV is a brand new AUDI (bosch) BOV.

So when you said unplug the IAC I am pretty sure you mean once the car is warmed up. When I unplug it what should happen if the IAC is good? Also should I use diagnostic box jumper when I do this? Thanks

Updated:

I went to an exhaust shop and got my Hotside IC piping fixed. Before it contained aluminum piping, silcone couplers, but also had...PVC piping, home depot couplers, and bendable exhaust tubbing. I got a GTX 323 PCV and cleaned the Intake manifold again. With all of these changes my idle is completely fixed! Now just saving for MS so I can run my WI and turn up the boost. Right now I am maxing out @ 5 psi and the turbo is loud...is this the wastegate maximum boost or does it sound like I have a leak? I will try to get a sound clip today...thanks again for all your guys help. My miata is now just as worry free as when the motor was stock, but now its like 10 times as fun.

Is anyone running an heater core near the water cooled turbo? I have a new heater core sitting around and was just wondering if I would see any difference. I plan on mouting it behind the radiator to pick up the cooler air from below...it is about 9 by 8 inches. PS I am running @ 202- 208 when my car is sitting...

Just checked today and I have huge shaft play...does anyone know a good rebuilder or a good cheap turbo (t2 inlet). I bought both turbos used and both were super cheap so I guess I get what was coming to me. Please let me know any good preferably local (LA) locations...thank you.

gpopshop.com will sell you a kit to do it yourself for less than $75.

I tried it once before on the old turbo and hated the process...if anyone wants to do it in the LA area I will pay...but I need it done right :)

Ryan, Call up Church Automotive. They are local to you and do tons of tuning for FI cars and are really nice guys, I am pretty sure they can recommend a rebuilder if not themselves. Or try David on HT. He works with Jerry Built and thats a small company that is putting out huge numbers so it might be cheap

Hi guys, just wanted to update this...I am now running my Progressive DOWI, along with now using a Uego to monitor my A/f...I installed a new t25 with a 8 psi wastegate. Here are some pics... Next on my list is to get MS so I can get all the power, & more importantly tuning capabilities. But as of now with the FMIC I am having no problems. Please I am open to any comments/suggestions/advice, also does anyone know a good place to it dyno'd in LA area? Now for some pictures.
Attachment 213991
I know my oil feed is ghetto rigged along with the intake arm, but I should be taking care of these in a while...also the wheels are now polished by hand, not great quality but it gets the job done.
Attachment 213992
Attachment 213993

looks good.

Just bought MS two days ago...planning to run MS-II with no NA CAS. I will update this thread as I hopefully make some progress.

How do your A/Fs look with stock fueling + intercooler & WI?

a\f
 

It seems to drive ok, but under boost even with the wi it runs lean.

Update for this...yesterday I used the largest nozzle from my DO kit and I am now almost perfectly stoich. When I boost approximately 3-6 pounds (WI comes in @ 2psi) I am running anywhere between 13.7 - 15.1...I am super happy with it:jerkit:, but I will still be adding MS to it (building it next week) to actually be able to tune.:)

i think you want to be slightly richer while in boost right? Or is being richer in boost just to help with detonation by cooling, which is what DO does?

So basically you are lean as fuck and you need a real ECU. Don't boost on your car until your AFRs are WAY under 13:1. Most of us run in the 11.8-12.5:1 range, even with water.

Lean as fuck would be more like 17+. My MS will probably be operational hopefully in two weeks, but honestly why should I not boost, my set up has been going strong for a few months and I have had no problems with the car, (had to replace the turbo, because I purchased crappy used ones that were already set to fail). I have not once ever had knock/detonation, and that is a lot more then some people can say running MS.

13.5:1 would be a good target for 0psi (naturally aspirated). I consider anything leaner than 13:1 on a turbo car to be lean as fuck. 17:1 is where you'd lean cruise if you were trying to save gas. You're going to start melting pistons if you continue to boost on the car with AFRs in the 13.5:1 and up range.

:bowrofl:

I agree with you Ryan, you car runs very very nice for no engine management. Its pretty badass.

Thanks, I think it is just most people are probably right, your car will run like shit without management, but I think they are only correlating that to experiences with NA's. Out of the four people I know personally who have had boosted Nb's only one of them had aftermarket management. I completely agree with people that MS, EMB (to a lesser extent :giggle:), etc is a much better way to run, but people need to see that it can be done with stock management (on NB's, NA's can have they're timing problems all day long:giggle:). While I know I am nowhere near the power I desire or the gas mileage, I have comfort knowing that my set up is safe and reliable, even though it lacks my tuning desires :) until my MS is all set to go!!!

I'm going to wait for someone else to back me up, but I really don't think 13.5:1 AFRs in boost are safe, regardless of power levels or detonation.