Kraken 6758 build
 

Got some Kraken goodies for my build yesterday and was able to hang the turbo for the first time! Got the full 3” option from him, absolutely top notch

Next is getting my oil and coolant lines ran, I am still waiting for my skunk2 intake to refund from TCSAutomotive as they closed and haven’t shipped my item ordered Dec 4th, but hopefully can order from somewhere else and finish the intake side and put it back in the car!

About the car, I’ve had it since Dec 2016 and got with 25k on the clock already turboed with a journal t25 and an MS1 setup

currently with 34k on the clock and a full built engine, last thing I need is to source my MS3 when funds allow

Very excited to almost be ready to go back in the car! A couple small things to figure out from here, but we are getting there

trying to figure out my EFR clocking location, last setup the t25 outlet was pointing straight down and massaged the shelf to for it and the EFR looks to be close to the same location, but I’ve seen a couple setups where it was clocked towards the block 25 degrees or so with a silicon 45 at the outlet... anyone have any pictures of their kraken efr setup?

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Nice! By the looks of it you put a new oil pump. Did you change the piston rings and crank bearings as well?

This is nearly an exact copy of what I've been working on, minus your ATI damper, I'm not that baller. I pointed the housing towards the fender, and used a 2.5" hole saw to put the charge pipe behind the fender. I can post some pictures later, it leaves lots of room for any PS/AC you might have.

Also, do yourself a favor and put in a new front crank seal in the boundary pump, if you haven't already. I've so far seen 100% failure rate with the seals they send with the pump on the ~2 dozen pumps I've installed.

Oh yes, had a local machine shop do rods, pistons, rings, polish the crank (needed it), new ACL bearings, balance the assembly, and assemble the bottom end. I am somewhat mechanically inclined, but I recognize my limitations and bearing clearances fall well within my "not confident" zone. Assembled with ARP hardware throughout, had the BP4W head rebuilt with volvo springs, new guides, a light port and polish.

Curly:
"This is nearly an exact copy of what I've been working on, minus your ATI damper, I'm not that baller. I pointed the housing towards the fender, and used a 2.5" hole saw to put the charge pipe behind the fender. I can post some pictures later, it leaves lots of room for any PS/AC you might have.

Also, do yourself a favor and put in a new front crank seal in the boundary pump, if you haven't already. I've so far seen 100% failure rate with the seals they send with the pump on the ~2 dozen pumps I've installed."

Yes somebody cued me into the front seal issue before it was too late, so I put a Mazda OE one in before I did the damper (thankfully! I would have been so disappointed to find a leak up there once its running)
As far as the piping, I wont go through the fender mostly because I am trying to reuse as much of my intercooler setup before as possible, which utilize the FM silicon piping with the outlet facing directly down... I am hoping this setup will be somewhat close to the same location to make that piece work, even if I have to get creative. No AC but keeping PS

Haven't installed the EFR yet, but sounds like we have nearly identical builds. I'd recommend giving soviet's build thread a read. He's' one of the first guys to run EFR and lots of great info on there + I've laughed a few times reading it.

https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...ild-you-61522/

Once the turbo and intercooler piping is in place you'll be able to see how the compressor housing should be clocked. I had the same manifold but with a garrett turbo and it was pointing down slightly toward the engine block (7 o'clock).

Awesome, I have seen a bunch of Soviets posts and youtube dyno runs, but had actually never went through his full build thread.... definitely something to do on a slow day at work today! Would love to see 4xx on the dyno, though I think I would keep it in the 350s range just for a margin of safety on the rest of the drive line. Do I have that much self-control? IDK hahah. I talk about emotional regulation, rationality, and exercising self-control as a psychologist all day long, but totally recognize my limits in those areas when we starting talking about boost, more boost, and all-of-it :rofl:

So thats kind of what I had seen, the EFR clocked at about 7 o'clock and then a 45degree silicone adapter should put it *about* in the same area as the silicone charge pipe I already have. I hope I can get my intake soon and get the block back in the car to see for sure -- the question is really whether it will clear where I already massaged the engine bay to fit the other turbo or not. I havent seen any other top mount EFR setups in this orientation, so I would guess not... but I am still going to try. I will post pictures when I get there as reference for others in the same boat in the future

Identical plans here minus the consideration of self-control.

For my IC routing, I did what curly was suggesting. no going back after cutting, but imo it's the best routing option. I believe hornetball was one of the first guys to put up pics of it.
https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...0/#post1252898

Familiar with that setup; it certainly works but I disagree on it being “best”, my other setup and what I am trying to run here is less piping, no hole cutting, and I already have most of the materials. Not knocking your setup, it most certainly works and is a good option for many, but 100% not the route I’m taking.

I look forward to seeing what kind of numbers the setups put down and how they compare... you know, for science...

For science!

Take my "best" with a grain of salt. I mainly say that due to a smooth airflow (45 is my biggest bend) and only marginally longer routing but I really don't see it making any noticable difference over your routing. Realistically as long as your piping gets from A to B without going through the trunk and looking like a Japanese touge run, you're golden. If that downwards routing clears fine, I might actually switch for asthetics

Made some progress today and finally got my skunk2 manifold - my wife had ordered one from TCSAutomotive back in December and they closed and never shipped it so had to file a dispute; anyways finally got it today and slapped it on


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and also had my friend Stefan from Napp Motorsports (lots of Miata related YouTube stuff, 7163 k24 Miata coming together) come help with some custom AN oil drain and coolant supply hoses and I’m so happy with how they came out... final oil supply and coolant return will be decided once the engine goes back into the car, which should be pretty soon!!


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I still need to figure out some of my fuel stuff, but will get there once it’s back in. The skunk intake makes that stuff fairly accessible 👍🏻

Better shot of the lines, though the turbo feed isn’t finalized - just got the right fitting for the top tonight, so I will get that closer tomorrow


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Those ports make routing so much easier, at least when the engine is out. Unfortunately no Miata I've ever touched has had them.

1.6, early 1.8, and MSM blocks I believe,

what’s funny is that whoever did the old setup ran the oil feed from a T off the oil pressure sender and both ports on the exhaust size were unused

This is what happened to me too. I just installed a turbo setup on my car and tan my oil feed off the mishimoto sandwich plate, and as I’m installing the stuff I see the oil feed port by the dip stick. Thanks to tons of misinformation on the interwebs. I would change it but this car is getting a VVT engine in a few months so I might as well just leave it as is and reuse these parts on that engine

Made some more progress today!!


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Stefan from Napp Motorsports and my other friend with a really clean rotrex build came and got the engine back in the car! Gives me lots of little things to get figured out, hoping to get the trans in next weekend. Had to trim a little of the ledge to clear the EFR and I have to rotate the power steering right at the banjo bolt ever so slightly, but overall an easy process with the chain-fall coming straight down

This quite literally JUST happened to me. Very frustrating given the price of the pumps, should've done more research I suppose.

I also take it that the black braided line from the block is a coolant feed? I had no idea they had one there although I did take advantage of the oil feed in that spot on my 95. Curious because I am planning on switching to an EFR as soon as funds allow and have been debating on where to pull coolant from since I've deleted the front coolant neck like you. Pretty sweet build though, pretty much either exactly what I have or exactly what I want.

Yep, super convenient coolant feed! And since I deleted the front water neck, I am using that port off the coolant mixing neck as my turbo coolant return. Thank you though, I’m super stoked on the build and can see the light at the end of the tunnel... and spring is coming quick!

Got some more done this week:


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Whew, what a view
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ACT 6 puck and xtreme pressure plate (had to find my own m8-1.00x20mm and washers for the pressure plate this week)
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6 speed, driveshaft, and the beautiful kraken 3” stainless exhaust hung
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Mint.
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Got a heat sheath for my oil feed, shouldddd be enough clearance but might make a bracket to hold it away from the manifold a little more
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No clearance issues, shelf unmodified


The Kraken stuff is absolutely amazing, really great kit that fit perfectly and looks outstanding.

Getting closer! Got a radium rail this week so going to start figuring my fuel side out

but a lot of stuff I can start putting back together now, and have a week off of work coming up, so hoping to get a lot done!

Love the build! Gonna be such a fun car!

Is your upper timing cover 3d printed? Because it looks 3d printed.

hahah no, but I can see how it looks like that. So, before, I tried to paint that piece with wrinkle paint and it chipped pretty badly within a couple months. So this time since I had everything apart, I went for some oil-based "tractor and implement"
paint which is a poor mans POR-15 I can get at the local tractor supply and has been incredibly durable. The reason it looks like that is because I live in New York and it was about 30 degrees when I brushed it on, so it dried thick with the brush strokes, and when I noticed the brush strokes I tired really hard to make them look uniform at least.... I guess that is a weird testament to my steady hands, anyone need some cheap surgery?

Been a little bit since an update, but have been slowly getting small things done


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Got the transmission filled and interior back together
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Most of the wiring done, just need to pin these up
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I ran into an issue with an ebay2 throttle body, they sent me the wrong hardware and stripped these holes, got screwed on returning it. Probably just going to use the stock throttle body for now, try again later on down the road once the car is running
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But then this came today!!

Still working out little things with my coolant reroute, but need to get the throttle body figured out before finalizing it. Hoping to get my fuel stuff figured out next and go for initial start-up mid-March! Excited and nervous


*any chance a mod can move this to Builds, it’s not so much DIY turbo*

Ran into a couple issues this weekend:
First and the biggest... Car was already running on a spectre eMS-Pro standalone from like 2005 that ran ms1Extra, which means that the previous owner had a shop (I have the receipts) cut the plugs off the ecu harness and splice in the connector to the eMS-Pro, which makes the ms3pro PNP I just bought... NOT PLUG AND PLAY (!@$#^%&^$@!#$@#)

so after about 20 minutes of cursing the car and panicking over the thought of trying to trace and rewire the stock plugs back in... I turned to ebay and found an ecu harness out of a 1994 for $80 and got it. I guess I would rather take apart my interior and replace that harness than to try my luck at extensive wiring followed by a decade of chasing gremlins. So this definitely puts the first start a week or more back, but what can I do

Second problem, I just hate the coolant reroute upper hose routing, after trying to make it work and cutting up my qmax hose I decided to try the $13 escalade coolant hose ive been reading about. I was going to buy the $120 cobalt hose that supposedly "fits NA" but I will give the cheap version a shot first.

Somewhat discouraged on the build as every time I go work on it, something else goes wrong and costs me another $100 but we will get there. Persistence without "i" is just persstence, and thats not a word......so

Love the updates. Keep at it dude. You’re so close and weather will start to change in a couple weeks. Daylight savings time is coming soon as well.

I DEFINITELY understand what you’re going through. I bought a M edition as a good foundation to build from and it became a total nightmare due to previous mods done wrong or half-assed. Most of that stuff is worked out now but it still seems everytime I start some modification, even the smallest, most insignificant mod, it turns into some huge ordeal and things go wrong. Good luck to you

I appreciate the encouragement, it’s going to get done one way or another! Spring is coming FAST here which is at least lighting the fire under me

Anyways, here’s what I am working with

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Got this far last night and stopped, definitely broke my gauge hood — first one I’ve taken off on all the Miatas I’ve owned, feared I was going to break it and self-fulfilled that prophecy — what’s another $100 at this point 🤪

the harness will be here Friday so I am hoping to knock it out this weekend, but we will see

"What's another 100$ at this point".

Oh, I remember these times.
In the middle of my build, I simply didn't care anymore about $'s. I feel with you right now :D I originally thought I can build the car for 5000$ - was about 15000$ at the end.

Now that the car is on the road, it hurts me a little more to invest in it. Last week I had to buy parts for the six-speed/torsen swap (seals, boots, oil etc) and I can't just take it that easy anymore, idk.

"Interesting" update:

I was guided by friends who have only taken apart NA6 dashes (who swore I had to pull my dash), which do indeed require you to pull the entire dash to replace the ECU harness

HOWEVER, for NA8's (and possibly NB's, but can not confirm) you actually only have to get up behind the AC and heater blower behind the glovebox to disconnect that portion of the harness. I attribute this to the difference in where the ECU's live (footwell on NA6, behind pass seat on NA8)

I learned this too late, and broke a cluster hood that did not even need to be removed. Am I frustrated because I wasted hours of time? YES. Am I thankful that I don't have to continue pulling the dash and worry about getting everything plugged back in correctly? A RESOUNDING yes! It also gives me an opportunity to route some of the additional wires (EBC etc) in a cleaner way than they were previously and properly finish the AC delete as I had just left the under-dash box there, whatever...

So, I just wanted to put that information out there because it was not something I had come across and hope that someday this might save someone a bunch of time and unnecessary breaking of cluster hoods. Will work to get the drivers side dash put back together today, the harness will be here tomorrow! *eye of the tiger playing somewhere off in the distance*

Got some more done, AND sold the old ecu + harness (making it essential PNP for a 94 at the plugs behind the AC) and netted $185 after shipping, which pays for the hood and the harness... thrilled to break even!


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New OE harness installed
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Getting fuel side figured out, I need more fittings
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Radium rail dry fit
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Getting the extras figured out
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Wife just signed on this ‘21 cx30 turbo, officially a dual turbo Mazda household! 250hp 320ft/lb it’ll probably beat the Miata to 60 hahah

also ordered my dw1000cc injectors (yeah, yeah.) and just need a couple more AN fittings to finish up the fuel side and hopefully go for a first start in 2 weeks???

Hey look! You convinced me to make an account!

The King himself!! Good, you have a lot of great info to share and a sick build coming along. Have an Cat

Looks good, following.

Got a few more things done, Stefan from Napp Motorsports came and helped get my AN lines done


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Radium rail, flex sensor, and regulator all AN
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Still waiting on injectors
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MS3 installed, getting the interior back together

I’m going to double check my grounds and then go key on this week for the first time since august last year; just to set up the MS at this point, but it’s another step closer. Hoping the injectors ship soon, still don’t have tracking numbers.

Also preordered a set of those new R8 coil kits with the sequential harness, which I will get setup before the dyno but will do break in with the stock setup in the meantime

Unexpected day off from work today, so I got lots of little things done!


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Interior back together! Did a real ac delete with the Mazda OE pipe, pain in the ass but got it in there
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MS3 cable through the glovebox, planning to run the same windows based tablet in there running full tunerstudio at all times
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Blew out the fuel lines and tightened them, got the throttle body set up

so once the injectors come (tomorrow, Saturday) I can put them in, double check some things and hopefully go key-on to set up the MS

Got a bunch more done today!


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DW1000s
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Installed

Finished up coolant routing, filled coolant, fixed a leak at the turbo, installed DW1000s and went key on! MS3 is communicating with my laptop, base map loaded. AFR isn’t quite right, and was just playing with my boost map switching and can’t get that right either (not important at all right now) but I am in a good spot to build oil pressure for the first time and consider first start!

Fixed a gas leak I had around the AN lines today, still can’t quite figure out the wideband communication and am going to have to do some wire tracing from whatever previous owner did

Got the courage to try to turn it over and build oil pressure!!

*click*

didn’t even turn over 😠 battery is fine, thought it was the “st sign” fuse I pulled (which you apparently only need to do for 90-93 cars) so put it back and was ready to try again, certain I had figured it out... and *click*... ugh

so I’m going to check all my grounds and starter connections, I bought the starter used from a forum member who said it was working when he took it off the engine, idk

I also went to change the fuel filter and there is an in-line canister above it with power running to it????? I’m not sure if it is some kind of external pump or what, but I am not loving all these gremlins my low mileage NA is turning up. Was really hoping to see oil pressure to keep some momentum to the build, but I’ve gotta find motivation elsewhere I guess...

Check your clutch interlock switch. They can go bad and cause exactly the symptom you're experiencing. I replaced multiple starters, the ignition switch, battery wiring, installed extra grounds and even a relay - to no avail. I was ready to sell the car until my mechanic traced the problem and took the switch out of the start circuit.

If you're worried about the starter being bad, you can jump the solenoid on the starter with a remote starter switch (or just a screw driver if you're feeling froggy). Just make sure it's in neutral if you're under/infront of the car when doing this.

Question for you if you're in the US; how long did it take to receive from Kraken.....shipping time? Curious how long the international shipping took.

I would have to go back and look specifically, but I would say I ordered first week in November and got my stuff second week in January? Well worth the wait, honestly.

BUT, Stefan from Napp Motorsports came over and we figured out it was, indeed, the starter and put my old 94 starter in and built oil initial oil pressure! Super happy! Also got notification the FlowForce R8 coils shipped and will be here next week, much sooner than I expected!

next up:
- figure out wideband signal (not reading on MS3)
- take out external fuel pump and new filter
- clutch line is leaking, will swap in a braided line
- first start??


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Cranking, no oil pressure
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Cranking — OIL PRESSURE

What WBO2 do you have? I'm a big fan of using CAN for wideband communication if it's an option

AEM 30-4100 a little bit older but was used on my last setup and is already installed and wired — I like the can gauges too, especially the multi display ones, but not in the budget for now

Braided clutch line from FM will be here Friday,


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Pulled out that external pump, put in a new filter
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Looking more like a car!

so hoping to get the wideband communication figured out if I have a free hour the next couple days and get the clutch line in and bled over the weekend


and then first start and break-in? I have a week off of work after next week, was kind of shooting for that then, but I’m a little ahead of schedule at this point so we will see! Weather in Rochester seems to be starting to break into spring too, so I’m happy with this

Keep going, even when we are quiet, we're enjoying!

Can't wait to see this build finished up. I'll be running a 6758 on my build too. Slowly acquiring parts right now and researching. Great work so far!

Got the wideband reading correctly!

Went to put on the new braided clutch line and couldn’t get it out of the old slave cylinder - so after about 3 minutes of messing with that I just ordered a new one 🤷🏽‍♂️

so while I wait for that, I at least got the truck out of winter hibernation

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81 C10 350 w/4 speed stick. 1 owner, my dad bought it new and passed away in 2013 so I dropped a new crate 350 in and slammed it. Still technically in his name

it’s kinda of ratty and I love it as just a nice day cruiser

But right on target for the miata first start and break-in next weekend 🤞🏻

Why go dw instead of ff?

I was waiting for someone to bring it up -- honestly, because when I told my wife what I wanted I hadn't heard of any "problems" with them and they were a Christmas gift, seems to be pretty much only in the miata community (these forums in particular) that DW are looked down on. With that said, my understanding is that the 1000ccs are the newer ev14 design and either way are likely a big upgrade over the yellow 440s I had that I can't confirm their origin and were tapping out around 210whp

I also hope to have a decent experience to maybe provide some anecdotal evidence as a legitimate option. That said, Nigel is awesome at flowforce and if these DW's are introducing any kind of problem, I'll just buy FF's and sell the DWs cheap locally. It's not like they are welded in and I can never swap them out.

TL/DR: I ain't scared

YOU GUYS!

Managed a successful first start and break-in

Did a hot oil change and then went out on a short maiden voyage! I was so excited and forgot to take a log, but a huge milestone! A few little things to take care of, but can go forward with road break in 👍🏻

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After 30 minutes of 2k rpm break in
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Moving under its own power, kinda like the no hood look
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Made it around my block, almost four miles. There’s a driveline or wheel vibration somewhere, not awful, but present

Cranked it without plugs and got oil pressure again first, then put them in and it seriously fired RIGHT up, it kinda scared me at first — I wasn’t ready for it haha

stoked though, ITS ALIVE

That’s great news. How exciting. The fun part happens soon. What are you doing for a tune/tuner? When are the dyno runs?

Following what my engine builder said to do, but now something like 250 miles of high vacuum and varied rpms, another oil change, and then to our local dyno guy — if the weather holds out and they don’t salt the roads I would love to get on the rollers within 2 weeks. Probably going to just tune 93 this time and go back with ethanol after more of a shakedown

Congrats on a good first start. How're you handling break in without a tune? Are you just staying out of boost the best you can or did you go the route of wiring the wastegate open?

Nice car

It's going to be interesting seeing the difference in this car and Stefan's 7163 K24z3. I saw he also got his running this weekend. Both should be rippers.

not sure what you mean -- using the MS3 basemap and scaled my fuel and spark tables accordingly with my tuners guidance keeping things very conservative. He also said to tip into boost and not be too afraid of it, as little amounts of boost followed by the high vacuum is good for the rings

we literally had ours running within 2 minutes of eachother -- big moves in the Rochester miata scene hahah! He is going to the same dyno and tuner this saturday, I am guessing he comes in around 350-360whp on pump gas on that dyno

I hope the 6 speed gods have mercy on both of your 4th gears haha.

YOU AND ME BOTH! I think he will destroy one first -- I am content with 5th gear only pulls and is only a street car, something something mechanical empathy... but time will tell!!

Went on another cruise today, put about 20 miles on -- I tried to attach a log but it wont work for some reason? I did upload my tune and would love for someone knowledgeable to just check it over

The car seems to be getting kind of hot, not sure what is going on but I am seeing temperatures hovering around 200 going up to 206 before I got home. Fans are coming on, I do have the supermiata reroute which I think comes with 195 thermostat... but it just seemed warmer than I have heard others saying. Air temp was about 70

fuel pressure regulator is showing 60psi right now (do I change any settings for this over the base 43psi?)

*edit* it looks like the two logs did upload? Car shut off a couple times