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Good news everyone, I'm a dumbass and had a red herring!
So when looking at the diagram of the fuses under the dash, I failed to notice the legend designating "up," and when I was under there I had pulled the G fuse thinking it was the A fuse because of the orientation mistake. G (wipers) also happened to be 15a and also blown... so when I replaced that and nothing happened, I moved on to more complicated scenarios. For whatever reason was re-checking the diagram and noticed "up" saw that I had pulled G (and knew my wipers didn't work before) and it clicked. Went out and popped a new 15a into A and everything worked! So I grabbed a few 15a fuses and a bag of other fuses and relays I had been swapping out just in case and went for a cruise. It is 34 degrees and cloudy here in Rochester, but the salt is off the roads so I had to! Car feels awesome, I love the way it builds power and it feels QUICK. I did happen to pop another one of those 15a on the drive (seriously had 4 spare with me) it seemed to happen at < 3k rpm with a quick change in TPS... like, just went into boost and POP. Put another in and was able to do several decent 60%+ throttle pulls with boost in the 14-16range successfully. I am thinking it is the DW300 pump wiring and am going to change that as soon as I can.
Just happy to have the car up and running again, with a decent idea of what is going on... hopefully actual spring comes soon here
It snowed a little here and they dumped a bunch of salt down, so hopefully we get some rain early this week and wash the roads. Been looking for a good flat patch of road in the meantime, and gives me a chance to put my ride height back
I did get the full tunerstudio running on my tablet communicating with the new MS3, showing the correct tune so planning to run that out of the glovebox again, but might explore other mounting options — it’s nice to keep an eye on real coolant numbers
Meant to share this too, put my boost variables in matchbot and it looks like I’m in a really good area for the turbo — working pretty efficiently and not running it way off the map like I was with my little t25 before. If you peep the highlighted engine hp and tq and take into account a 15% driveline loss... seems to be fairly close to what I got on my tuners dyno, curve and everything. Further interested in what VD will show later this week
Saw your comment about maybe running flex fuel etc.
What injectors are you running again? My ID1Ks and dw200 were good enough for 330 on 93. I didn't want to run a dw300 for that exact reason but looks like you're getting things sorted out.
Saw your comment about maybe running flex fuel etc.
What injectors are you running again? My ID1Ks and dw200 were good enough for 330 on 93. I didn't want to run a dw300 for that exact reason but looks like you're getting things sorted out.
I was planning to, even have the sensor in and wired in -- my tuner isnt sure the dw300 and DW1000's would net me much more because of the instant 30% increase in fuel demand. He wants me to come back sometime with some race octane gas or maybe like an e55 blend to see how much more we can get with this setup.
As far as the fuse issue, I have a friend who just LOVES car electronic stuff and he does not believe the pump to be of any issue in the circuit that is blowing, He tried to explain it and even sent diagrams highlighted...I kinda got what he was saying, but I also hear anecdotal evidence here that fuel pump on its own relay solves the issue. Im not sure, he is supposed to come over this week with some relay testers to try to do something..........................
Wow, this build is sick. As a fellow 3 inch Kraken connoisseur, I am impressed. How is your downpipe and trans fitment? I know you have a six speed but still curious. Also, does that midpipe, one that connects to the muffler block you from putting in the rear bar that connects on both sides?
Wow, this build is sick. As a fellow 3 inch Kraken connoisseur, I am impressed. How is your downpipe and trans fitment? I know you have a six speed but still curious. Also, does that midpipe, one that connects to the muffler block you from putting in the rear bar that connects on both sides?
i had to cut one of the cross braces off my rear butterfly thingy for the kraken 3” to fit. No regrets.
I did not have to cut anything at all to fit my kraken 3”
sounds awesome too — I’m not one for obnoxiously loud cars, and this you can have a comfortable conversation in the car but still has a nice deep tone, no resonance issues with the Simmons muffler. Couldn’t be happier with it
Was just looking at a log I took the other day taking the wife for a first rip (her reaction was "that's not safe, you need to be really careful" hahahaha love it)
and around 16.5psi and 6500rpm my duty cycle with the 1000s on pump is around 70-75, when I was at the dyno and talking about coming back with e85, he was unsure that the pump @4bar (60psi) fuel pressure and 1000ccs would be able to flow enough for the 30-35% increase corn juice requires.
Looking at that log really quick, I am starting to think he was right on the money with that. Even at 70 duty and a 30% increase would be 91 duty and I am not comfortable going that high, I just have no interest in running this thing to the ragged edge. Anecdotally another local built miata guy went back with e85 and almost made no additional power because of basically the same reason, but of course I didnt want to believe that.
Tuner had mentioned e30 or e55 might be a better move on my setup as is, or even get some of that 100+ race gas (best bet, least cost effective)
Thoughts? Sure I could go bigger pump, and maybe that is something I would consider later down the road, but more interested in seeing how far the DW300 and 1000s can get me (though that may be where I am at now on pump) and actually drive and enjoy the car for awhile
I feel like something is wrong in your setup to need that much injector duty cycle - have you measured the voltage your pump gets on the dyno during a ramp run? Also rail pressure during ramp run.
I feel like something is wrong in your setup to need that much injector duty cycle - have you measured the voltage your pump gets on the dyno during a ramp run? Also rail pressure during ramp run.
Embarrassingly, I was looking at my BOOST duty cycle, not my INJECTOR duty cycle... went back and looked and im only at 42 duty at 6krpm and 17psi (75 boost duty lol)
So thats good news! Might be able to pick up some power with ethanol after all. Still having trouble with my 15a engine fuse though and it is popping more frequently so back on the lift it goes. It is happening at steady state highway driving now, no load changes, and unexpectedly... starting to think it doesn't have as much to do with the fuel pump as I initially thought... will report back with updates
Re-wiring the fuel pump should be on your list regardless... I believe that fuse is responsible for triggering the fuel pump relay as well so it's not out of the realm of question.
That being said - I blew that fuse a few times with melted O2 sensor wiring. Check for shorts!
Re-wiring the fuel pump should be on your list regardless... I believe that fuse is responsible for triggering the fuel pump relay as well so it's not out of the realm of question.
That being said - I blew that fuse a few times with melted O2 sensor wiring. Check for shorts!
DW pump wiring kit should be here this weekend, its just the "right" way to do it anyways
Its funny you mention the 02, in my research I see a lot of people citing an 02 short somewhere being the culprit. When I was on the dyno and tightening the heater clamps, I had moved the 02 wire loom and it rested on the downpipe for a moment and burned the black outer sheath through but none of the wires themselves looked damaged, but maybe I will pull that section apart and look.... or have the car running at idle and start wiggling them around to see if I can recreate the issue. I am also going to pull apart my center console and check e-brake spade and the wires that run from under the radio, I had moved those around trying to route them more cleanly and wonder if I pinched something. I despise electrical, but really want my car solid so...
things got worse — blew many more fuses, sporadically it seemed
could not re-create the issue at home on the lift, would venture out on the road — get a mile or so away and pop one. Passed a c5 corvette and we exchanged pop-up waves to eachother and BAM blew a fuse. Put a new one in, car started and would idle but as soon as I put load on it, it popped. Stranded and had to have a friend come rescue me with my truck to drag it back the 3/4ths of a mile I was from home.
Put a new fuse in at home on the lift the next day, started right up couldn’t re-create it on the lift again, but started thinking about how much worse it got after the headlight wave. Had my electrical friend come over and we started poking around and look what we found
Son of a... we stripped the two wires to test things, but the melted black/white one that was tucked and hidden we did not... guilty
passenger side headlight area, that black/white wire was grounding against the aluminum up-pipe to the throttle body and has 12v with the 15a engine fuse in, and no power with that fuse removed. I can’t 100% confirm that is the issue right now because it’s been pouring rain all day — but logically seems like it will solve it! Wrapped all them up neatly and put the car back together, excited to go for a drive and see
Finally got out today after the roads dried up a little (still rained today)
Annual clay bar and home ceramic coat, ride height better - alignment tomorrow 👌🏼 From a log today, first successful cruise leaving and returning under its own power with the same fuse it left with HA
so YEAH it seems that the secret exposed hidden 12v wire that was melted and on the circuit that was blowing was the culprit — weird 😜
car feels great, like a totally different car than the old t25 setup, it really just keeps pulling and likes to rev SO much more than before
So now I can get some VD pulls - probably this weekend, the wife is out of town so...
Found a clean log from when I was on the dyno, tuner said he didnt take any logs.... but I found about 6 of them hidden in a different "datalog" folder (much to my surprise)
unfortunately, this was about 3/4ths of the way through the tuning process, the later pulls have some weird data in there at the end of the pull that the HP shoots way up suddenly (wheel spin maybe?) so this is the cleanest pull I could find
BUT it does show more than his "heartbreaker" was showing. I think this VD is a little bit of an over-estimate honestly, but its another data-point and something to compare to when I find a straight flat road not in the middle of suburbia this weekend for more VD pulls
Take with a grain of salt -- 4th gear on 6 speed ratio, 23in wheels
Yeah I had that thought too since weight would be off, air resistance, etc
Air temp around here has been all over the place and my open loop is swinging up and smacking my overboost so im going to start playing with closed loop I think
Tomorrow looks pretty decent though so I am hoping to get out and log some pulls on the road finally
Okay okay so I completely recognize the limitations of accurate numbers using a log from a dyno through VirtualDyno
BUT
Because I have a log from the same dyno of my old t25 setup and I have a similar run with the new setup, theoretically it should at least show the RELATIVE change in the setup
The numbers don’t mean much here, but the relative change and curve change is meaningful Impressed how good the spool is on the much bigger EFR turbo 🤯 the tiny t25 only made marginally more power from 2200-3600rpm and then the efr is off to the moon
Red - EFR6758 6-speed 4th gear ~18psi
Blue - t25 journal .48/.49 5-speed 3rd gear (that’s the gear he tuned in for whatever reason, I recognize it is not 1:1) ~12.5psi
Got out in the car today for awhile and put some miles on, but wasn’t able to log a pull in the flattest spot I’ve found, maybe tomorrow
04-01-2021, 11:58 AM
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